Sitting for almost 20 years...

[swimmer_spe]

So, I got a 1975 Terry 18' trailer for free. It needs work, and I am pretty handy.

I plan to use it in the middle of nowhere, not at those pretty parks with hookups.

I was surprised to pop the grease caps off and see nice clean good grease. That meant I could drag it back home, 40km away.

All tires were garbage, so, she has new rubber all around.

2 of the 3 vents were broken, so, she got wet inside. Also got wet from a cracked fresh water pipe.
Scrubbed out the trailer really good. Now it can dry out and I can take stock of my major work ahead of me.

I know the floor is soft in spots. The metal underneath has not been breached. My thought (and I know it may sound crazy) is to lay 1/4 sheet of plywood on top, then a nice real oak hardwood floor. (I got the oak boards free) To screw the ply wood down, what length of screws dc I use that will not puncture the metal undercarriage?

How hard is it to remove the toilet? I would simply remove it and then reinstall it once I did the floor.

The brakes... and bearings... I did not use a trailer brake controller. My truck handled it very well, and if I did not actually need it for law, I would not bother with it. However, the law is the law, and I am trying to do things as legal as I can.
I want to take the drums off and repack the bearings and free up the brakes. Before I do this, how do I find out what the bearings and seals are so that I can have all I need before I tear it apart?

The trailer has a roll up awning. I think it has not moved in about 10-20 years. How would I lubricate it while it is rolled up? Best case, it rolls out and rolls in, but if not, how difficult is it to fix those rolls?

I know I have a lot of work ahead of me. I know some of it will have to be done by professionals.

Any help you can give me would be appreciated.

[swimmer_spe]

I doubt 1 stick would do it.

A trailer in good condition of the same year is worth about $2000. I will spend about that to get it to where I want it.

You may be right, but I like a challenge.

[dodgerdog]

Better idea stick of dynamite one match tape explosion put on you tube. Watch video priceless... This was said with humor... If you want to spend more money than its worth to fix it up then god bless... By the time you get done if you look on Craig's list you could buy one for less by the time you buy supplies spend endless hours of your time fixing it and finding out you still have issues... There is a reason you got it for free... It's not worth fixing! Been there done that... But this my opinion and my opinion alone... Lighten up a tad......

Mike C.

[DiskDoctr]

swimmer_spe wrote:
edit: not a PUP
PUP?

Haha. I posted something about checking the roof lifting mechanism, then realized you weren't talking about a Pop UP.

Only rubber is at the bottles. Everything else is either copper or cast.

That's usually the case, but being that old, I didn't know if they had anywhere else. Be sure to replace those rubber lines. I used 2 of these from Mr. Heater to attach an auto-switchover regulator for new dual tank setup.

Yup. This though, is not a concern of mine. Am I right this has nothing to do with safety? It is just for lighting when I am not on the grid?

Your onboard converter produces 12v and all your lighting and such should be 12v. Fridge needs 12v for controls, as does the furnace, etc. Any shorts or weak connections can build up heat, either directly or by making other components work harder.

Most importantly for the wiring part is to get an idea of how good or bad your wiring is using the voltage drop as a makeshift gauge. If it is little, probably not too much trouble. If it is a lot, best to check it out before any extensive use. Even if not a big safety issue, bad connections are hard on your (usually expensive) 12v appliances.

You also don't want bad connections to drain your (also expensive) deep cycle battery. Not only is it part of your overall electrical health, it is likely used to power your breakaway switch for your electric trailer brakes. That is a direct safety issue.

But again, it's up to you to select the things that concern you. I am simply pointing out what I would consider the priorities if in the same situation, in an effort to help out a bit.

BTW, we like pictures! 😉

[swimmer_spe]

DiskDoctr wrote:
Of course, you should do whatever pleases you.

If it were me and I wanted to use it right away, I'd be tempted to put down some very thin subflooring, cut to fit the open areas- especially if the current floor is covered with linoleum and only soft without obvious signs of impending failure. Keep the weight down.
It is soft, and covered in linoleum. There are no spots that seem like they will give way. Besides, I doubt that will happen with the tin under it.

Fix the brakes.
It ain't being moved till the brakes work right.

edit: not a PUP
PUP?

Replace any rubber sections of propane line. Test it all for leaks.
Only rubber is at the bottles. Everything else is either copper or cast.


Clean and inspect battery connections. Test the voltage at a few locations for acceptable voltage drop. If too much, continue testing and searching until you find the problem.
Yup. This though, is not a concern of mine. Am I right this has nothing to do with safety? It is just for lighting when I am not on the grid?

Fill water tank with water and test pump. Pressure test lines. Then when all is good, add bleach to tank (search forum for sanitize water)
[COLOR=]I need to first fix a broken plastic line to the hot water heater. There does not appear to be a shut off between it and the water supply

Use some spray lube in the key slot of all locks.
[COLOR=]Not going to waste my time. I will replace the door lock and the locks for the compartments.

How much time and money you put into it is up to you. Good luck!

[DiskDoctr]

Of course, you should do whatever pleases you.

If it were me and I wanted to use it right away, I'd be tempted to put down some very thin subflooring, cut to fit the open areas- especially if the current floor is covered with linoleum and only soft without obvious signs of impending failure. Keep the weight down.

Fix the brakes.

edit: not a PUP

Replace any rubber sections of propane line. Test it all for leaks.

Clean and inspect battery connections. Test the voltage at a few locations for acceptable voltage drop. If too much, continue testing and searching until you find the problem.

Fill water tank with water and test pump. Pressure test lines. Then when all is good, add bleach to tank (search forum for sanitize water)

Use some spray lube in the key slot of all locks.

How much time and money you put into it is up to you. Good luck!

[down_home]

Get a pencil and pad and do a survey, starting from the bottom, up and see what needs done. No sense starting, in the middle and then backing up. I use to check the assembly instructions last and still do on occasion but it tain't much fun. 🙂

[swimmer_spe]

Well, the plan was to make it clean, watertight and safe for the road, and then use it.

Since I can use it year round here, I likely will use it late Oct. By then, those 3 things will be met.

[woodgeezer]

BarneyS wrote:
He is saying to use it as you work on it. You don't have to wait until it is done to get some use out of it in most cases.
Barney

Couldn't have said it better. Thanks, Barney

[BarneyS]

He is saying to use it as you work on it. You don't have to wait until it is done to get some use out of it in most cases.
Barney

[swimmer_spe]

woodgeezer wrote:
Most important is you don't make this a project that begs to be used. Take it out for a little relaxation as you bring it back to life.

What?

[woodgeezer]

Yes,there are some challenges, but sounds like some care was taken, and a few issues overlooked. Your soft floor spots should be looked at individually. Patching the "rotted" wood to create a good base is the best solution. The idea that water will ruin the entire floor by association is wrong thinking. My '84 had some leaking issues, but repairs to the frame and a few scarfed repairs cured the problems with the necessary sealing. You seem to realize the vents leaked, but repair and check for other leaks.

When you patch the soft floor, then think about our overlay, and new floor. Make sure the roof is sealed and all damaged issues in the roof are taken care of before tackling the floor.

Most important is you don't make this a project that begs to be used. Take it out for a little relaxation as you bring it back to life.

[hershey]

Everyone needs a hobby and this little jewel will fill be bill for you just perfectly.
Just be prepared to sink any free cash or available balance on the Visa on this
"free" camper. It will turn out to be a very costly investment over time.
Honest, you'd be dollars ahead if you pull off the tires and junk the trailer and look on Craigs list or the paper for something available in the $1000.00 price range. You'll still sink some more money into it but the end results will be cheaper by a tremendous amount. (Experience talking here, been there, done that).

[westend]

swimmer_spe wrote:
Thank you for the help.

1) How does one go about removing the floor without removing EVERYTHING?

2) They are ST tires. I doubt the tire shop would have even let me put P tires on if I had asked.

3)I live on Vancouver Island. I am moving back to Northern ON in a year. I do not know if I will be towing it across, or if I will get it floated.

4) I did a good cleaning, and it seams that the cupboards, walls and roof paneling are fine. I may have to do some replacing of the roof in the shower area, but that is because they used wood, not plastic. WTF!?!

Answers:
1) Yes, if you want to remove the entire floor, removal of cabinets, toilet, shower, and appliances is necessary. If you want to replace just certain areas, cut back from the obstructions with your circular saw set to depth of the bad sheeting. When you are replacing with new plywood, install a 2' x 2" under your cut seam.
2)True dat!
3)Bon Voyage!
4)I lined mine with sheet plastic sold at the big-box stores, about $25/4' x 8'.

[swimmer_spe]

dodgerdog wrote:
get 5 gallons gas one match and walk away.... LOL.... Sounds like you have your hands full....


Mike C.

Sorry, but I do not want a pretty TT that I sit in manicured parks that have all the amenities of home, but just smaller.

I want something that when I bounce along the bush roads to get to my favourite fishing/hunting spot, I will not have to worry much about the damage caused.

- Oh no, I scraped the paint. Leave it.
- Oh no, I took the turn a little too sharp and now I have a dent. Meh.
- Oh no, a broken window from a tree branch. Meh. Tape some plastic on it till I get it home.