โNov-13-2016 11:10 AM
โNov-17-2016 05:28 PM
โNov-17-2016 04:30 PM
Lantley wrote:enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box
It is nothing like a cheater box. This unit is hardwired into the RV. Two different animals.
โNov-17-2016 09:05 AM
โNov-17-2016 06:24 AM
โNov-16-2016 07:54 PM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
โNov-16-2016 05:50 PM
enblethen wrote:
Device looks very similar to Progressive Dynamics cheater box. It specifically says no GFCI and receptacles must be on separate circuits.
Cheater box
โNov-16-2016 06:58 AM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
โNov-16-2016 06:17 AM
avvidclif1 wrote:
I see nothing there that states it will work with GFCI and the layout doesn't either. Besides it's just a switch to select using an extension cord to run the second AC or to use the 50a service. Those are available for less than $30 rated to carry 20a.
โNov-16-2016 05:49 AM
โNov-15-2016 05:53 PM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
โNov-15-2016 05:40 PM
Coach-man wrote:Lantley wrote:Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post
This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site
Check it out
I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ
The problem with that, is most 20 amp outlets are GFCI, which will immediately blow if you try and connect that box!
โNov-15-2016 01:49 PM
westernrvparkowner wrote:valhalla360 wrote:Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.
Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.
You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.
โNov-15-2016 12:43 PM
valhalla360 wrote:Huh? What gets damaged drawing 27 amps? A breaker only has two positions, on or off. If it is on, the power being delivered will be 120 volts +/- 5 percent per NEC. If it is tripped to off, the power being delivered will be zero volts +/- an infinite percent (zero times anything is still zero). Where things get damaged is when voltage fluctuates high or low. The only possible damage would be if something gets harmed by the power suddenly cutting out due to a breaker tripping. Almost all appliances are built with that potential in mind so they aren't going to be damaged. The biggest threat would be if something got harmed because the appliance stopped working. Pets might overheat if the AC quits and the Chicken Fried Steak is going to be mighty greasy should the electric frying pan cut out in mid fry, but the skillet and the AC unit will almost assuredly continue to work once power is restored.Mandalay Parr wrote:
I can run both of mine on 30. They draw about 27-28 total. One is a 15 and the other 13.5.
Keep in mind a 30amp is really only rated for 25amps continuous. Drawing continuous 27-28 amps is a good way to burn out equipment. If you are lucky it just trips the circuit breaker.
You may or may not be able to get both units going but it's really a not a good idea.
โNov-15-2016 12:18 PM
โNov-15-2016 09:30 AM
Lantley wrote:Grady23 wrote:
Anyone ever install a separate circuit on a remote breaker box for a 110 service? This was a recommendation from a mechanic working at a well known camping center. Then the bedroom A/C would be on its own 110 circuit and plugged in to the 30 Amp for the main 5th and a sep heavy duty extention on the post
This ^^^^ is a very viable idea.
THe gadget below is designed to do just that it will allow you to run both AC's on a 30 amp site
Check it out
I have an RV SafePower Switch. It allows me to run both AC's on a 30 amp site. Work like a champ