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Battery Disconnect Switch

gdweb
Explorer
Explorer
im installing a battery disconnect switch, i see alot of "never" hook into positive side. im installing it so i can keep my battery from being overcharged while on shore power. but im thinking if i go to ground side, battery would still be recieving the charge. Am i right or wrong in this thinking? was going to let converter continue running to keep sensors working.
SEMPER FI

Gary & Diane
Ky
2020 F250 King Ranch 6.7l FX4
2013 Sundance 3270res
11 REPLIES 11

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have disconnect on battery bank positive cable to converter.........other positive leads are connected directly at battery prior to disconnect so that jacks/stabilizers/slides have power all the time.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
ScottG wrote:
Disconnecting either side isolates the battery from the charger.
I have my switch in the POS. side - works fine.
Ditto.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Dakota98
Explorer
Explorer
In consideration of "all" your questions.

The very best thing you can do for yourself, is read these TWO articles.

They are a "Must Read" for any RV owner.

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/
I'm an expert in only one field....I believe it's somewhere in Kansas.

2000 / 22' SKYLINE NOMAD LITE
1998 DODGE DAKOTA / 5.2L= 8mpg.
2006 POLARIS ATV
1500/1200 Watt Champion generator
Yada Wireless Back Up Camera
1998 Dyna Wide Glide
USMC 68-74

SailingOn
Explorer
Explorer
Reasons to disconnect the negative side:
- often multiple wires on the (+) side, just one on the (-), so disconnecting the (-) is simpler.
- Most big 12v batteries are in cars, where inadvertently touching a wrench to surrounding metal and the (+) terminal causes sparks, shocks, sometimes fires. Touching (-) to ground isn't exciting. Of course, this doesn't apply to your RV since the battery isn't surrounded by metal.
Buck: 2004 Wilderness Yukon 8275S, now memories.
Star: Open range LF297RLS. 2 air conditioners!
Togo: 2014 Winnebago View Profile, 2013 Sprinter chassis; 16 mpg
Snow: 2020 F250 diesel
AD5GR

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
g4sbrg wrote:
can I add a question, on some other threads folks have talked about two or three bats inline, and also stated don't hook up an old battery to a new, I have a spare battery and was thinking of putting in my 5th wheel and installing a switch over from one bat to the other, charge one on the shore line before I go and the other on the road with the truck?? any comments ??
This is best covered in a new thread.

IMO the only time they need separated is when stored with no float charge.
Otherwise run them together is fine.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
2oldman wrote:
gdweb wrote:
im installing it so i can keep my battery from being overcharged while on shore power.
I'd prefer you replace your converter with one that doesn't do that.
+1

All other switches and fuses are on the positive so if you must have a switch I recommend staying with the existing convention. Electrically either side will accomplish the same result. If it is an exposed knife switch then I would be more inclined to go to the negative terminal to avoid accidental short circuit issues.

g4sbrg
Explorer
Explorer
can I add a question, on some other threads folks have talked about two or three bats inline, and also stated don't hook up an old battery to a new, I have a spare battery and was thinking of putting in my 5th wheel and installing a switch over from one bat to the other, charge one on the shore line before I go and the other on the road with the truck?? any comments ??

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
gdweb wrote:
im installing it so i can keep my battery from being overcharged while on shore power.
I'd prefer you replace your converter with one that doesn't do that.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
The only reason to install a battery cut off switch is to shut the power off when in storage so the battery doesn't go dead from parasitic draws such as LP detectors, radio memory etc. The convertor in the trailer will automatically shut down before the battery is overcharged. If there was going to be a problem with overcharging the manufacturer would have already installed a switch. That being said, if you still want to install one it won't really matter which side you connect it to as once the battery connection is opened the battery is out of the circuit. It has to have both terminals connected to function. I installed mine on the positive side but it really doesn't matter.

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Disconnecting either side isolates the battery from the charger.
I have my switch in the POS. side - works fine.

Dakota98
Explorer
Explorer
Your batteries will not receive a charge unless a complete circuit exists. You have a newer RV & the converter will not overcharge the batteries while connected to shore power. Make sure the batteries have adequate water levels. The disconnect, keeps the batteries from being discharged while in storage & shore power is not available.
I'm an expert in only one field....I believe it's somewhere in Kansas.

2000 / 22' SKYLINE NOMAD LITE
1998 DODGE DAKOTA / 5.2L= 8mpg.
2006 POLARIS ATV
1500/1200 Watt Champion generator
Yada Wireless Back Up Camera
1998 Dyna Wide Glide
USMC 68-74