Blowing tires on 5th wheel

[Quint_Da_Man]

First I apologize if this subject has been cover in the past. I did a search and went back a bit and didn't see anything fairly recent

I'm starting to get very frustrated and its beginning to ruin my travel experiences. I own a Cedar Creek Silverback 5th wheel and have blown 4 or 5 tires on the thing with very little mileage. I went seasonal 3 years ago but before that I was weekend transient with a couple of week vacation trips thrown in. Here's the issue I'm having. Before I went seasonal most trips were under 2 hours on weekends. The weeks trips would be up to 300 miles one way. I did those types of trips about 7 times in a 4 year period. Of those 7 I blew tires 4 times. Very discouraging and started making me avoid longer trips completely. Then I went seasonal with the idea we would pull out once a year for vacation. Well that was last week. Didn't go to far, about 200 miles round trip and what happen? I blew a tire!!! Can anybody tell me the the heck is going on? Why am I blowing tire so frequently? I'm at the point where I don't want to take the rig anywhere now. Tire pressure and lugs are check before every trip. Wheels are greased yearly. I read somewhere a few years ago in a Good Sam's article that on the less expensive models the axles may not be aligned properly so tires are not running true and sort of dragging. Is there any truth to that. Do I need to get axles laser aligned? Very frustrated here and need to have a resolution to this problem before I go out on a long trips again. Is this a common problem on 5th wheels? Any help would be appreciated.

[Francesca_Knowl]

tomthyme wrote:
So how do I find out the PSI rating for my wheels? I assume checking the manufacturer/model spec data somewhere? I slapped G614's on my 2011 Cameo, but never thought about the wheel PSI capacity.

Thanks folks.

Checking with manufacturer is likely the easiest thing to do, though wheels are supposed to be stamped with their PSI limit. That's the good news; the bad being that, weirdly, the info is often stamped on the inside surface, necessitating removal of the tire to see it.

[Me_Again]

laknox wrote:

Me Again wrote:

All about the Boys wrote:
I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

This same company the branded the max load at xxx inflation on your tires has a inflation table showing the tires load capacity at 5 pound increments. So if you know your weight then running less than sidewall inflation is recommended by companies like Michelin. Over inflation for the weight decreases contact patch and braking. It also subjects the tire to a higher chance of impact damage.

I will note many special trailer tire manufacturers do recommend full inflation, which I believe is a vailed attempt to make them last. Chris

So, you're saying that a tire below its max load and inflated to its max pressure is more susceptible to impact damage than one that's loaded to near its max load and psi?

Lyle

What I said was that Michelin CS told me that a tire that is over inflated for the load it carrying is more susceptible to impact damage. Chris

[laknox]

jimmyfred wrote:

Bamaman1 wrote:
Trailer manufacturers, both RV and Marine, go to the Chinese tire manufacturers that pitch a price at them they cannot refuse. Unfortunately, those tire have too many instances of being "Will Pops." When they do blow, $2K-$3K damage is not uncommon. And Goodyear Marathons are Will Pops--despite their famous name.

The only ST tire I would suggest is the Maxxis M8008--$160 DiscountTireDirect.com.

Otherwise, go for the Bridgestone Duravis R250's ($244/Walmart)or the more expensive Michelin XPS Ribs ($300 TreadDepot.com).

The absolutely top of the line tire is the Goodyear G614, but they take a special wheel rated to take 110 lbs. pressure, and they're about $400 each.

$1K for a set of tires is cheap insurance and it's also for peace of mind.

............Trailer Parts Super Store currently has GY-G614 Tire AND Wheel Combo listed for $303.45 ! These are NEW Tire\Wheel sets . , jf

My dad needed new tires for a utility trailer and found that it was about 25% cheaper to buy a tire/wheel combo than the exact same tires, unmounted. Weird... Sold the old rims for $200 bucks and saved even more.

Lyle

[Bamaman11]

WBChapman wrote:

............Trailer Parts Super Store currently has GY-G614 Tire AND Wheel Combo listed for $303.45 ! These are NEW Tire\Wheel sets . , jf

You've found a serious bargain. I wouldn't want the painted wheels attached, however it's still a great buy.

I honestly don't know how they're selling current G614's for that price.

[laknox]

Me Again wrote:

All about the Boys wrote:
I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

This same company the branded the max load at xxx inflation on your tires has a inflation table showing the tires load capacity at 5 pound increments. So if you know your weight then running less than sidewall inflation is recommended by companies like Michelin. Over inflation for the weight decreases contact patch and braking. It also subjects the tire to a higher chance of impact damage.

I will note many special trailer tire manufacturers do recommend full inflation, which I believe is a vailed attempt to make them last. Chris

So, you're saying that a tire below its max load and inflated to its max pressure is more susceptible to impact damage than one that's loaded to near its max load and psi?

Lyle

[laknox]

All about the Boys wrote:
I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

I'm with you on this, yet almost all mfrs have "load inflation charts" to, supposedly, balance the actual load (who has handy scales?) with just enough tire pressure to handle the load. Me, it's max cold psi.

Lyle

[NC_Hauler]

tomthyme wrote:
So how do I find out the PSI rating for my wheels? I assume checking the manufacturer/model spec data somewhere? I slapped G614's on my 2011 Cameo, but never thought about the wheel PSI capacity.

Thanks folks.

If on a Cameo, and the OEM tires were "G" rated tires, you should still see a placard telling you tire weight rating, size and recommended air pressure....Don't know what your 5er's GVW is or axle ratings, but Cameo is usually a heavier 5er...I'd go with 110 psi, unless you moved up a weight rating...

My 5er has 7,000# rated axles, came with GY G614's, recommended psi airing is 110. 5er has a GVW of 16,950, loaded to 16,200#. I air tires to 110 psi, per GY and manufacturer of my 5er.

[tomthyme]

So how do I find out the PSI rating for my wheels? I assume checking the manufacturer/model spec data somewhere? I slapped G614's on my 2011 Cameo, but never thought about the wheel PSI capacity.

Thanks folks.

[WBChapman]

Old tires made in China are a formula for blow outs. OEM tires are the cheapest******they can find and add to that they are Chinese and you can guess! Replace wit best quality you can afford and watch the load factors. good luck.

[jimmyfred]

Bamaman1 wrote:
Trailer manufacturers, both RV and Marine, go to the Chinese tire manufacturers that pitch a price at them they cannot refuse. Unfortunately, those tire have too many instances of being "Will Pops." When they do blow, $2K-$3K damage is not uncommon. And Goodyear Marathons are Will Pops--despite their famous name.

The only ST tire I would suggest is the Maxxis M8008--$160 DiscountTireDirect.com.

Otherwise, go for the Bridgestone Duravis R250's ($244/Walmart)or the more expensive Michelin XPS Ribs ($300 TreadDepot.com).

The absolutely top of the line tire is the Goodyear G614, but they take a special wheel rated to take 110 lbs. pressure, and they're about $400 each.

$1K for a set of tires is cheap insurance and it's also for peace of mind.

............Trailer Parts Super Store currently has GY-G614 Tire AND Wheel Combo listed for $303.45 ! These are NEW Tire\Wheel sets . , jf

[ReneeG]

All about the Boys wrote:
I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

Thanks for your feedback. This backs up what our dealer told us - full 80 PSI cold, yet the tire shop told us 75 cold. I'm more inclined to heed the advice of the RV shop.

[Me_Again]

All about the Boys wrote:
I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

This same company the branded the max load at xxx inflation on your tires has a inflation table showing the tires load capacity at 5 pound increments. So if you know your weight then running less than sidewall inflation is recommended by companies like Michelin. Over inflation for the weight decreases contact patch and braking. It also subjects the tire to a higher chance of impact damage.

I will note many special trailer tire manufacturers do recommend full inflation, which I believe is a vailed attempt to make them last. Chris

[All_about_the_B]

I noticed one other thing now that I am reading all of the posts. I had the opportunity to be educated in, well, the limits of tire capability from a tire industry engineer, but related to auto tire capability. He told me that tires must be inflated to the sidewall pressure COLD. ON the day of use the tire must be at the psi on the sidewall for the maximum load carrying ability of the tire. I was told, absolutely, that no one would pass the driving course I was taking with the tire pressure less than the manufacture's sidewall pressure on the tire.DO NOT deflate it for smoother ride or any other reason. For whatever reason, in the course of my employment, I have scuffed a sidewall nearly to the wheel and I did not have a tire failure. I attribute not crashing in that situation to the advice I was given. Maximum load carrying capacity is AT the sidewall pressure for the COLD tire.

[All_about_the_B]

Ok, from the guy who always read about tire problems and believed people checked pressure after driving, thus were not at max cold pressure and experienced tire failures due to under inflated and overloaded tires. Today, I was the most lucky person on the road. I really did not need it, but I pulled in for fuel and a driving break and heard the hissing. 2009 Jayco with orginal Goodyear Marathons. I check tires daily, and when I left Green Bay WI this am they were fine. The tire must have broken an internal belt as the center was "hunched up" and it had a deep wear area the size of my hand just off to the outer 1/3 of the tread only about 6-7 inches long along the tread. The rest of the tread in that zone is uniform. The leak was near the edge of the tread and I could see no foreign object or indication one was there and had been ejected. It appears that it was leaking air from the start of the complete tire failure. Had I not heard the hissing, that tire would have failed before I reached home, no doubt causing RV damage. Now looking for replacement tires...oh boy.