Curt fifth Wheel Hitches

[rkassl]

Going from a short bed with a Pullrite Super Glide to a long bed where we don't require a slide hitch. Does anyone have any comments regarding the Curt Hitch, good , bad or otherwise? Any first hadn experience will be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Cummins12V98]

mkohler30 wrote:
The B&W has a single motion of the arm that when closed causes the 1" thick machined jaws to fully capture the kingpin.

B&W Web site says the 1 inch thick jaws are cast....there is a big difference between machined and cast.

The curt jaws are cast as well

The jaws are cast but the hole for the kingpin is "machined" for a tight fit. Another reason B&W hitches are "SILENT".

[Sport45]

mkohler30 wrote:
The B&W has a single motion of the arm that when closed causes the 1" thick machined jaws to fully capture the kingpin.

B&W Web site says the 1 inch thick jaws are cast....there is a big difference between machined and cast.

The curt jaws are cast as well

Huh? Machining is only the finishing step. You'd have to ask what they're machined from. Could be a cast, forged, or rolled (plate). Sounds like they're both machined from castings. And both have jaws that appear to be up to the task.

[mkohler30]

The B&W has a single motion of the arm that when closed causes the 1" thick machined jaws to fully capture the kingpin.

B&W Web site says the 1 inch thick jaws are cast....there is a big difference between machined and cast.

The curt jaws are cast as well

[Cummins12V98]

Stefonius wrote:
Anyone with an understanding of physics and/or mechanical engineering will tell you that the bolts don't matter. What holds the hitch head to the base plate is the static friction between the mating surfaces.

Haters gonna hate...

So you are saying it does not matter if those 4 bolts are grade 5 as suggested or grade 8???? Are you saying the 4 bolts shown will have as much clamping force as the 8 grade 8 bolts on my B&W?

What is really amazing is the hitch shown is rated 25k and so is the B&W RVK3600.

[Cummins12V98]

Charlie D. wrote:
How old is that picture? Although it looks new the Curt 16 and 20 I have been looking at has a different look that the one pictured. The arm is flat and the hitch has a welded flat plate that when hitched lines up with each other and a 5/6" pin with retainer to keep it from unlatching.

The bolts that attached the base to the hitch has 10.9 grade bolts (stamped on the bolt head) which is equivalent to a Grade 8.

It's a Curt/RAM 25k that is in an inlaws 15 LongHorn Dually. Pic is about two months old.

[Stefonius]

Anyone with an understanding of physics and/or mechanical engineering will tell you that the bolts don't matter. What holds the hitch head to the base plate is the static friction between the mating surfaces.

Haters gonna hate...

[jerem0621]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"beefy pin retainer" I guess we have a difference on what one would consider "BEEFY". Also two bolts on each side really does not instill confidence to me and there is NOT a grade 8 designation on these bolts.

My dads 20k Curt hitch have metric grade 8.8 stamped into the head IIRC...this is a grade 5 bolt...he has over 30k miles on his hitch and not one bit of problem from these bolts. But I would feel better with grade 8's.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Charlie_D_]

How old is that picture? Although it looks new the Curt 16 and 20 I have been looking at has a different look that the one pictured. The arm is flat and the hitch has a welded flat plate that when hitched lines up with each other and a 5/6" pin with retainer to keep it from unlatching.

The bolts that attached the base to the hitch has 10.9 grade bolts (stamped on the bolt head) which is equivalent to a Grade 8.

[Cummins12V98]

"beefy pin retainer" I guess we have a difference on what one would consider "BEEFY". Also two bolts on each side really does not instill confidence to me and there is NOT a grade 8 designation on these bolts.

[Stefonius]

The Curt is idiot-proof. The position of the handle tells you right away if it's ready to hitch. It also lets you know right away if the jaws are locked or not, and the beefy pin retainer keeps it from unhitching when you don't want it to. There is a color coded section on the lever that shows through a window on the hitch to let you know if you're properly locked.

Unlike with other hitches, you do not have to lift your trailer up with the hitch in order to engage the jaws. You can back up with the kingpin at the same height as the hitch, which saves stress on your truck and trailer.

I've camped on uneven ground and had one side of the trailer raised as much as 8 inches in order to get level. When hitching or unhitching, the Curt hooks up on the first try no matter how crazy the kingpin angle is.

The hitch is held together by four big grade 8 bolts torqued to 100 lb/ft and the plates they join create a huge amount of static friction. It's not coming apart easily.

I seem to have a much easier time with my hitch than some of my friends with other brands. In the end, whatever makes you happy is the right choice for you.

[Cummins12V98]

KKELLER14K wrote:
This is still really not all the answers I was looking for...A hitch WAR is not one I was looking for. I get it. I would prefer that if anyone has one of these hitches tell me what you like and dislike about it. I really don't care what you paid for it or where it comes from... I'm not down with the side by side comparison...who has this option to decide?....so what? You have had both of them to compare? ...not likely. I want the real world to tell me what they think. SO throw me a bone and tell me why yours works for you. I am back to the question of.." Why wouldn't you buy the biggest rated you could get"? Regardless....trolling the issue is a waste of our time ..who has these hitches and what can you tell us?

I certainly DID answer your questions. I have used the Curt, in comparison to the B&W both rated at 25K I sure am NOT impressed with ONLY 4 bolts of questionable grade holding the head to the base on the Curt. The B&W has 8 grade 8 bolts doing the same job.

As far as latching the Curt handle has to be in the correct position for the flimsy pc to flip over so it can be pinned. The B&W has a single motion of the arm that when closed causes the 1" thick machined jaws to fully capture the kingpin.

Hooking up the Curt you need to be VERY close with the height of the kingpin plate and hitch plate or the head tents to tilt and not want to latch. With the B&W the plates can be offset and have the kingpin base ramp up on the hitch head or have them close to level it does not matter.

B&W simple solid NO question of being hitched or not. Curt color coding and a flimsy pin retainer.

YES B&W USA Made. YES Curt China Made, I know it does not matter to you but it does to me and many others.

Go to Etrailer they have videos of their hitches for sale.

[minnow]

KKELLER14K wrote:
I guess I should just start a new thread...so as no dis respect to the original OP

A waste of time starting a new thread. I would suspect that over the years there have been dozens of threads here asking the same question. And the usual fan boys always show up within hours and the thread ends up just like this one. Very few actually answer the question but pontificate endlessly on the hitch they have.

[KKELLER14K]

I guess I should just start a new thread...so as no dis respect to the original OP

[KKELLER14K]

This is still really not all the answers I was looking for...A hitch WAR is not one I was looking for. I get it. I would prefer that if anyone has one of these hitches tell me what you like and dislike about it. I really don't care what you paid for it or where it comes from... I'm not down with the side by side comparison...who has this option to decide?....so what? You have had both of them to compare? ...not likely. I want the real world to tell me what they think. SO throw me a bone and tell me why yours works for you. I am back to the question of.." Why wouldn't you buy the biggest rated you could get"? Regardless....trolling the issue is a waste of our time ..who has these hitches and what can you tell us?