Fuel Pump Problem (not the gears)

[AzRocket]

The first time my pump (EZ8 RV) quit working I replaced the gears and it was working. Now it is not working, again (a year or two later). I turn it all on as usual, and nothing at all happens. I loosened the bolts to the gears, still no movement. They are free and move just fine. My circuit is NOT tripped. It's been a couple months since I messed with it, but here's what else I recall. I used my volt meter and recall having 12v on both sides of the switch (power in to switch, and power out to pump) so the switch is ok. I didn't see any in line fuses that I could see. I rarely used it, it was never over worked when I did use it, didn't leave it on, etc. Anyone know of more troubleshooting tips? Hoping its something small I am missing.

[lincster]

Switch is bad.
You can order 5 of them from Amazon for 10 bucks.
I just did this last week as I had a light switch inside the trailer go bad.
You can pull any switch from inside and replace the fuel pump switch to help with trouble shooting.

[AzRocket]

Redwing1, the last thing I did was this. I turned the dial on (with switch off) and had 12v to the switch. Then when I turn the switch on, the volts were like 0.1 (barely registering). I was grounding the one side of my volt meter and used the red end and put it on both prongs of the switch. Both sides if the switch showed 0.1 (or so). I think I am doing that correctly. I currently have the switch pulled out. I will try to check the ohms on the switch.

[Redwing1]

Hi AZRocket, electrical is just a mess! Turn your timer on, turn your switch on and check for voltage across the two red wires. If nothing pull the wires off the plug and use your ohm meter to check the switch for continuity, if the switch is good and no power across the two wires go back to the black and red wires in the timer, red should be hot and black ground.

[AzRocket]

Here is the back side of the switch. Do you think I can just touch the two wires from the switch together (to bypass it) so I can see if I have 12v at the pump? I don't know how to test the switch, so didn't know if I could do this to make sure the pump is getting 12v.

[AzRocket]

Here is the timer and switch

[AzRocket]

Did a little more testing today, here is what I found out. On my trailer, I have a timer dial next to the on/off switch. For my pump to work, you turn the dial to the desired amount of time, that sends power to the switch, than you turn the switch on to the pump. So when I turn the dial, I get 12-13v at the switch. When I turn the switch on, it drops to about 0.1-0.2v. My only assumption is maybe the switch is bad? I have pics of this stuff, but can't figure out how to post from my phone.

[nayther]

arhayes wrote:
Are you sure is power all the way to the pump itself? I'd still suspect an inline fuse but without knowing if there is power at the pump it's hard to tell.

check power right at the pump and check your ground. If both are good, there's power to the motor and it doesn't at least hum then the motor is bad. To double check try running a dedicated wire from the battery (or other 12v source) directly to the motor.

[arhayes]

Are you sure is power all the way to the pump itself? I'd still suspect an inline fuse but without knowing if there is power at the pump it's hard to tell.

[AzRocket]

The only fuse I know of is the one in the converter, it's ok. I called it a circuit in my post, because it looks like a circuit breaker. Either way, that one is good to go. I have seen people reference an inline fuse near the pump (I guess a 2nd fuse?). That is the one I was trying to say I couldn't find.

[lincster]

I have a fuse for my pump.
In my Warrior, it is in the main power box where the 50 Amp cord plugs in. 20A fuse for the fuel pump.

It has to have a fuse somewhere.