Honda Generator "revs up" every 20-30 minutes?

[rtreptow7]

Got a new rig this year. Still running our Honda Generator 2000. Mainly just run it to charge the batteries up in the coach. I have it set on eco mode and it usually just stays at a low idle. On our new camper, about every 20-30 minutes? The generator revs up for about 5-7 seconds and then settles down again. Never did this on our old camper. Is there something in the new camper that powers on every so often to cause the generator to do this? It happens even when nobody is in the camper using anything. If the generator is running and I turn the sink on to activate water pump, that doesn't cause the generator to increase rpm. Can even have some lights on and a fan with water pump on too and it doesn't cause the generator to rev up. I wonder what could be Powering on every so often to cause the increased RPMs on the generator? Air/Heat is off too. Generator doesn't rev up like that when we plug in to another camper.

[Ralph_Cramden]

Butch50 wrote:
What brand of fridge do you have? On the some of the Dometic 12 cu ft there is a door heater that comes on to keep the control condensation on the door frame. I don't know how often it comes on or how much it draws.

Frame heater, roughly about 12 watts, an amp or less. I don't think thats enough to spool up a Honda 2000? Now the main heating element itself at 325 watts or more is different. I believe all Dometics have the frame heater. Some have a switch to turn them off, some don't.

Ours is wired direct into the light circuit, I snipped the wire after the frame heater attempted to melt its way through the plastic in the top of the fridge. Dometic sent an entire new fridge to my house under warranty, its still sitting in the box in my garage. I have been using the original for 2 full seasons now without the frame heater, and have yet to notice any condensation.

[pianotuna]

Hi Fly,

Here is a calculator to let you know which is cheaper.

http://www.maxmcarter.com/fuels/fuelscalc.html

FLY 4 FUN wrote:
I guess it depends on the cost of LP vs gas for genset. If I dry camp everything goes on LP. If I run my honda, I want it for charging, and some use of Tv/Dvd microwave etc. If the fridge is on Auto, and the genset ramps up to run it then your gas consumption goes up. Here LP is much cheaper than gas and absorption fridges burn very little LP in regular use.

my .02

[FLY_4_FUN]

I guess it depends on the cost of LP vs gas for genset. If I dry camp everything goes on LP. If I run my honda, I want it for charging, and some use of Tv/Dvd microwave etc. If the fridge is on Auto, and the genset ramps up to run it then your gas consumption goes up. Here LP is much cheaper than gas and absorption fridges burn very little LP in regular use.

my .02

[rtreptow7]

Gottahaveit wrote:
When you are dry camping ALWAYS put your fridge on gas :W

what is the reasoning behind this? I usually leave it on auto and let the generator run it on electric when it's running. Just figured I was saving a little propane this way.

[Gottahaveit]

When you are dry camping ALWAYS put your fridge on gas :W

[Me_Again]

riggsp wrote:
May be because of the converter/charger cycling.

rjstractor wrote:
^^^^ That's where my money is.

Yep what these ^^^^^ guys said. Chris

[pianotuna]

Any inductive load may have an inrush current.

[rjstractor]

^^^^ That's where my money is.

[riggsp]

May be because of the converter/charger cycling.

[valhalla360]

2oldman wrote:
It would certainly rev up for a bigger load, but it wouldn't settle back down. I can't think of what kind of load that would be.

Actually a medium small electric motor would do just that. There is a big spike in demand to get the motor turning and then it settles back after a second or so. It may take the generator a couple seconds to react and slow back down.

It could also be the charger kicking on under light load and then shuts off as the voltage jumps up after a few seconds. This could explain why there isn't a direct correlation to turning on the water pump or lights.

If it was every minute or two, it could be a carburater issue but at 20-30minutes, that's less likely.

[Me_Again]

Butch50 wrote:
What brand of fridge do you have? On the some of the Dometic 12 cu ft there is a door heater that comes on to keep the control condensation on the door frame. I don't know how often it comes on or how much it draws.

I was told by a mobile tech that the heater was actually just turning on the light in the fridge.

[Butch50]

What brand of fridge do you have? On the some of the Dometic 12 cu ft there is a door heater that comes on to keep the control condensation on the door frame. I don't know how often it comes on or how much it draws.

[2oldman]

It would certainly rev up for a bigger load, but it wouldn't settle back down. I can't think of what kind of load that would be.

[rtreptow7]

diazr2 wrote:
How about the Water heater? Is it electric and Propane. If so when the 35 amp water heater turns on that would cause a spike in output.

I'll double check that, but I'm pretty sure I have the electric option for the water heater off and just leave it on propane all the time unless I'm hooked up to electric continually.