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How do you secure your motorcycles inside your toyhauler?

Brisk
Explorer II
Explorer II
We just bought our first toyhauler a couple of months ago. We are planning our first trip with the bikes in a few weeks and I was wondering how to tie the motorcycles down securely. Our rig does not have a separate garage so there is no forward wall to secure the bikes against. I would prefer to not tie them to the side walls to avoid tire marks.

I Really like the Bolt It On rack but $350+ is more than I want to spend Here

How do you guys secure your bikes in the back of your trailers? Have you built a similar system to the bolt it on? Pictures would be ideal.

Thanks in advance!
Brent('85) & Lindsay('86) DDs('08 &'11)

'14 RAM Laramie 3500SRW CCLB Cummins/4x4/68RFE
-B&W Turnover Ball/Anderson Ultimate Aluminum

Toyhauler-'06 Forest River Sierra Sport F32

2001 Malibu Sunsetter VLX Wakeboat
20 REPLIES 20

Kafn8td
Explorer
Explorer
Removable Pingle chocks and d ring tie downs.

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Whatever system you use is only as strong as its weakest link.

If you want your bike to be truly secure, make sure whatever system/device you use (Bolt-It-On, eTrack, OEM tie-downs, etc.) is bolted/welded directly to the frame in some manner . . . not just to the plywood floor.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Best way. I also use the Condor chock and that means I don't have to tighten the front straps hardly at all. Mine isn't bolted to the floor, rather it is bolted to an aluminum plate that has slots for the D-rings. It can't move around, and is easily removed in about 30 seconds.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

jrp
Explorer
Explorer
I use a Condor locking chock for the front tire and D rings bolted to the floor for tie down ratchet straps.
Jim

boogie_4wheel
Explorer
Explorer
For the dirt bikes I load them in backwards and tighten them down facing the back wall/ramp.

I don't have my little winch set up yet (to pull my street bike in backward) so I load my street bike facing forward, and line the front tire up in between the front tie downs.
Place bike in gear, and a block of wood or something under the kickstand to hold it more upright.
I do one strap with a loop around the front tire to keep it from turning left/right, and it attaches to the front tire downs. Get the bars straight and tighten it down.
One strap for each side of the handle bars, and those straps also attach to the front tie downs (the same as the strap that is on the tire). These two straps will hold the bike upright and off of the kickstand. Tighten just enough to get the bike upright.
One more strap with a wrap around the rear tire to keep it from bouncing left/right and to keep the bike from sliding forward. Tighten this strap.
Then go back and tighten the straps on the bars to compress the forks slightly. Use judgement here.
Done.

I'm cheap, and don't want to mess with a check in the floor (the reason why I want to load the bike backward).

That setup in the link above is a nice piece, but could be built for a whole lot less. That is way too much cost for what you are getting.
2005 2500 Cummins/48RE/3.73, QCLB, 4wd, BigHorn, Edge Juice w/ CTS + Turbo Timer,Transgo Shift Kit ISSPro Oil and LP pressure gauges, GDP 20/2 filters, Custom Diesel Steering Box Brace
'10 Forest River Shockwave Toy Hauler 21'
Honda EU3000I Genny

jab764
Explorer
Explorer
I've been using the "Bolt It On" rack since 2009 for two Harleys. In my opinion it is well worth the price. It is easy to remove to have your floor back when bikes not in it. My first toyhauler did not have a separate garage either.
2011 Keystone Fuzion 302 TE III
2010 Dodge CC 3500 Dually Cummins 6.7L Auto
2013 HD Ultra Limited
2014 HD 1200T