JT's Strongarm install problem

[ACZL]

Am installing the JT's on our 5er and so far have the front brackets on but not the arms just yet. Had to quit at that time, not here on Sat and sick on Sun. So I figured I'd do the rear as it looks easy-peezy. It was until time to mount/attach the bracket to the rear crossmember. Only thing that's there is a 1/16" thick sheet metal that closes off the rear between the I-beams and it folds under approx 3/4". Have plastic belly to enclose the underside and this piece is attached to the sheet metal w/ 3 self tappers from the inside or from top.

So not only don't I have really firm metal to drill into, I don't have access to the 3 screws and this same piece of sheet metal is really a couple inches forward of the rear stabs as the arms will hit the rear stabs in full re-tract position.

Based with this info, it looks like I may have 2 choices which I'd like to get opinions on for those that have the JT's on their coaches.

1. Have a couple brackets made up and attach them to the rear cross section of the sheet metal (BUT this won't offer much in way of rigidity/strength) for the JT brackets to attach to.

2. Have a metal bar welded to rear of coach behind the sheet metal which would be stiffer/thicker, mount JT brackets to that and put the "T" handles/arms out of the way of the stabs.

I wish I knew how to post pics as then you'd better see what I'm up against.

[ACZL]

Finally got the arms on today. The rear ones, I could not switch around. The "T" handle would have been directly behind the bumper making almost impossible to get to. So Will just use a bolt and 9/16"wrench. Bit more of a pain, but will work. Spray painted the angle iron when done w/ install of arms. Now the fun part and setting this up. Will look like 1st timers w/ a 5th wheel!! LOL

[Learjet]

ACZL wrote:

magic43 wrote:
Can you swap ends with the stabilizer which will put the T handle in a different position?

Not sure. According to the directions, the "T" and slide section are to be placed near the stab itself. Not sure of reasoning. As I write this, in thinking if the "T" was at top along w/ the slide section, might be a PITA trying to get to the "T" as I have bike rack attached to the bumper and would have to reach under/around bumper to get to it. When I go to add the extra washers, will see what it's like with it reversed.

It doesn't trap and hold water that way.

[ACZL]

magic43 wrote:
Can you swap ends with the stabilizer which will put the T handle in a different position?

Not sure. According to the directions, the "T" and slide section are to be placed near the stab itself. Not sure of reasoning. As I write this, in thinking if the "T" was at top along w/ the slide section, might be a PITA trying to get to the "T" as I have bike rack attached to the bumper and would have to reach under/around bumper to get to it. When I go to add the extra washers, will see what it's like with it reversed.

[magic43]

Can you swap ends with the stabilizer which will put the T handle in a different position?

[ACZL]

Well DS and I took the 5er to the metal shop today and he welded on a 2x2 angle iron to top of brackets that hold the bumper on which in turn are welded to the I-beam itself. Then, and wasn't expecting this, he welded the 2 brackets for the arms to the angle iron. Cool! Now I don't have to fuss with them. One and only drawback overall is that the "T" handle will hit the stabilizers when in full re-tract position. So I may end up w/ just using a bolt in place of the "T" handle and tighten/loosen w/ a wrench. Otherwise, it looks good. Have to finish install of other arms and add washers to rear ones. Looking forward to see how it works.

Again, THANK YOU for the advice on what to do/mount the brackets.

[lee_worsdell]

on the back I just went to the bumper on an angle .They work fine

[ACZL]

Thanks for the replies!!! Glad I wasn't the only one who ran into a problem w/the rear ones. Will be taking 5er to a metal/welding Shop Fri so hopefully they can do their thing.

[Scott_85]

I had to install a piece of angle iron to the rear of my 5er also.

[Toolguy5]

Specularius wrote:
I would bolt a piece of 1 1/2 inch angle iron across where needed. on.

This is what I did on mine.

[BB_TX]

I used a piece of 2"x2" sq tube cut the width of the frame and 45 degree angle on each end. Attached to the frame with self drilling screws. If you do not have the tools to cut it, any metal shop can cut the tube for you.

[allen8106]

Specularius wrote:
I would bolt a piece of 1 1/2 inch angle iron across where needed. On my last Fiver I attached the rear anchor points to a receiver hitch that was welded on.

Not a bad idea but uni-strut is stronger. Might cost a little more but worth it mu humble opinion.

[newman_fulltime]

get a piece of 2 by 3 square stock cut a 45 on the ends bolt it to the frame on both sides and mount the strong arms to it

[Peg_Leg]

Just get a piece of 1.5x1.5 angle iron welded across the rear. You don't need much strength to stop the wiggling. Now if you forget to loosen the arms before lifting you may get a bend here or there.

[Specularius]

I would bolt a piece of 1 1/2 inch angle iron across where needed. On my last Fiver I attached the rear anchor points to a receiver hitch that was welded on.