Keeping a stationary 5th wheel movable

[RVA_Jeff]

I've got a 38 foot fifth wheeler on a permanent site at a campground. The dealer delivered it there for me, as I don't have a truck yet and have no intention of moving it anytime soon. That said, I know I shouldn't just let it sit stationary without moving at all for a long period of time.

I assume I'll have to find a local towing company or another friendly camper to hook up and move my rig every once in awhile, even if it's just around the campground and back to my spot.

Has anyone dealt with this issue before, and how frequently do you think this needs to be done to protect the tires from wear as long as possible?

[laknox]

RVA Jeff wrote:
I've got a 38 foot fifth wheeler on a permanent site at a campground. The dealer delivered it there for me, as I don't have a truck yet and have no intention of moving it anytime soon. That said, I know I shouldn't just let it sit stationary without moving at all for a long period of time.

I assume I'll have to find a local towing company or another friendly camper to hook up and move my rig every once in awhile, even if it's just around the campground and back to my spot.

Has anyone dealt with this issue before, and how frequently do you think this needs to be done to protect the tires from wear as long as possible?

There's no real reason you =have= to move it around, IMO. Were it mine, I'd take the tires off and store them in a cool place (they'll likely dry-rot in 3-4 years anyway, especially if China bombs) and block the frame up at 6-8 points along the frame, then fully skirt the trailer, including around the overhang.

Lyle

[RVA_Jeff]

Thanks Tx! That sounds like the plan

[TxGearhead]

Put the concrete blocks on a solid concrete pad that is bit larger than the block itself. Any lumber yard should have them. Usually 1" thick or 2" thick. If you need to change the elevation a bit to get it level, use some 1" x 6" pressure treated boards cut the same length as the block, between the block and the frame. I would put 4 sets of blocks per side of the trailer. Try to keep the weight load equal, but not too much on the very rear.
Concrete blocks are supporting hundreds of thousands of houses. They will be there longer than you.
Put covers over the tires. Maybe once a year take the covers off and roll the wheels to move the grease around and change the contact points of the bearings.

[mudmaker]

Concrete blocks would do the trick. They are inexpensive as well. It's what all those mobile homes are sitting on.

[RVA_Jeff]

Thanks guys! (And wow, I had no idea the debate between wood and cinder blocks was so controversial 🙂

[nickthehunter]

md_procouple wrote:
My two cents... I wouldn't use cinder blocks they can be a bit shakey after a while esp. after snow etc. I would use pressure treated 4x4's or 4x6's. If you do not have a place to store the wheels if you remove them. simply buy the wheel covers at Camping world or Walmart.

I have a small hunting cabin out in the middle of the woods. Blocks been holding it up for 20 years with no evidence that they won't last another 20. By they way, cinder blocks were replaced by concrete blocks about 50 years ago.

[md_procouple]

My two cents... I wouldn't use cinder blocks they can be a bit shakey after a while esp. after snow etc. I would use pressure treated 4x4's or 4x6's. If you do not have a place to store the wheels if you remove them. simply buy the wheel covers at Camping world or Walmart.

[Johno02]

Probably it would be good to check with someone local, but in some places, if you take it off the wheels, it becomes a residence and is subject to different taxes. Usually a lot higher. But might be a good idea to find out first.

[Tax_Man]

I talked to the folks at HWH once. They said that the leveling jacks are not designed to hold a vehicle off the ground. The system may be used to lift one wheel off the ground to change it.

Use the 6 point system to level and place blocks at several points to hold the frame. Jack up the axles and remove the tires. Put blocks under the axles also.

Just my two cents...

[MarkTwain]

RVA Jeff wrote:
Hmmm never thought about that. the camper has a six point leveling system. I wonder if those 6 points alone would be enough to support the camper without any damage to them?

IMHO No! the 6 point leveling system is designed to LEVEL the trailer not completely support it off the ground. Block it and take the tires off.

[austingta]

There is something to be said for rotating the bearings and exercising the brakes once a year or so. Maybe you could make a deal with a nearby service facility to come drive it around a little in the slowest time of year.

[muzzledan]

Yes the 6 point leveling system should be work to support the fiver with the wheels off.

[RVA_Jeff]

You're just talking about regular concrete blocks? And excuse me if this is a dumb question, but would you just put the blocks right under the frame somewhere in the back near where the wheels are (were)?

[agesilaus]

RVA Jeff wrote:
Hmmm never thought about that. the camper has a six point leveling system. I wonder if those 6 points alone would be enough to support the camper without any damage to them?

I doubt those jacks are designed to support the full weight of that RV for extended periods. Blocks are cheap, a couple of bucks apiece.

[RVA_Jeff]

Hmmm never thought about that. the camper has a six point leveling system. I wonder if those 6 points alone would be enough to support the camper without any damage to them?