Looking for a reliable diesel truck

[allendlung]

I'm looking for a reliable diesel truck. I like the idea of finding one of the dodge 12 valves but I haven't hand any luck. I want to replace my 2005 dodge 2500 Hemi.

My 5th wheel fully loaded can't exceed 9500lbs.

I was hoping to keep the price down to about $20K.

Any suggestions?

[Reddog1]

RustyJC , a good read. I really doubt I will install an Exhaust Brake on my '04.5. It was installed on my '96 by the previous owner, but could not possibly work with the trucks stock converter. It worked after I had the transmission rebuilt, the first and second times.

Wayne

[RustyJC]

Reddog1 wrote:

allendlung wrote:
What are other good years of dodge trucks?

What should I look out for. I'm guessing I need to expand my budget, that's fine. I just want something that will last a long time.

You should make it clear if you want 2WD or 4WD.

If you do not mind smog check every two years, then a 1998 or newer is good. If you do not want smog, then you want 1997 or older.
In Texas at least, diesels are not subject to smog check regardless of year. I realize that will vary by state - the OP may want to check his state regulations.

Exhaust brakes on automatics in their stock form do not work until 2003 (I think). A torque converter upgrade is required and 60 lb exhaust valve springs are required pre-2003, as I recall. The torque converter must be able to lock up, and if so, the valves are subject to float without the 60 lb exhaust valve springs. The 60 lb valve spring change only applies to the Cummins 12V diesels used up to January 1, 1998. The Cummins 24V diesels do not require any mods to use an exhaust brake - they were set up to use the Jacobs brake from the factory, and it was a dealer-installed option. My 2002 had the Jacobs exhaust brake installed at the dealer before I took delivery, but it was a 6-speed manual. As you state, use of an exhaust brake with the 47RE automatic was "iffy" - many exhaust brake suppliers offered torque converter lockup and line pressure supplemental controls that were installed along with the exhaust brake when used with the 47RE.

The 1995 through 1997 and 1st half of 1998 do not use a computer for fuel, it is mechanical. Unlike the mid 1998 and newer do not have issues with the lift pump or injector pump.

I have had my 1996 since 2001. It is 2WD, and last time on the dyno I was at 250 hp. I get 17 to 19 MPG empty, and 12.5 to 13.5 with my 4000 lb TC. I have the mods above, and a less than year old $4,500 transmission with a triple disc converter. My 1996 is setup for 5th wheel, TC and TT. It has a U.S. Gear exhaust brake. It has been my pride and joy, with a list of modifications too long to list. I post this to suggest I am far from a stranger to the 5.9.My 2002 was an ETH/DEE (Cummins HO/NV5600 6-speed) 3500 2WD dually that was mildly "bombed" for towing with an Edge EZ, DD Stage 2 injectors, BHAF and 4" exhaust along with a South Bend CON O/FE clutch. It made 347/762 at the rear wheels and was extremely reliable. A really great towing machine, but my wife was never comfortable towing with the 6-speed manual - thus, our current truck.

OI really like my new to me 2004.5 DRW Quad cab due to its creature comforts, but in it's stock form it does not hold a candle to my 1996, power or MPG wise.

See comments above.

Rusty

[hdrolling]

If you really want to get the most for your money you shouldn't limit your search to just one maker. When I was looking I searched ebay for Dodge, Chevy, GMC and Ford. When I would see something I liked with the options I wanted I would them search for issues on that year make and model.

I was stationed in Louisiana when I found my truck in Texas, used Oil worker truck. Just under 100,000 miles and fully loaded GMC 4x4. Drove 4 hrs one way to look at it and drove it home that night, but I also had a Ford and Chevy I was looking at while I was there in case I found something on the GMC that was a deal breaker.

[Reddog1]

allendlung wrote:
What are other good years of dodge trucks?

What should I look out for. I'm guessing I need to expand my budget, that's fine. I just want something that will last a long time.

You should make it clear if you want 2WD or 4WD.

If you do not mind smog check every two years, then a 1998 or newer is good. If you do not want smog, then you want 1997 or older.

Exhaust brakes on automatics in their stock form do not work until 2003 (I think). A torque converter upgrade is required and 60 lb exhaust valve springs are required pre-2003, as I recall. The torque converter must be able to lock up, and if so, the valves are subject to float without the 60 lb exhaust valve springs.

The 1995 through 1997 and 1st half of 1998 do not use a computer for fuel, it is mechanical. Unlike the mid 1998 and newer do not have issues with the lift pump or injector pump.

I have had my 1996 since 2001. It is 2WD, and last time on the dyno I was at 250 hp. I get 17 to 19 MPG empty, and 12.5 to 13.5 with my 4000 lb TC. I have the mods above, and a less than year old $4,500 transmission with a triple disc converter. My 1996 is setup for 5th wheel, TC and TT. It has a U.S. Gear exhaust brake. It has been my pride and joy, with a list of modifications too long to list. I post this to suggest I am far from a stranger to the 5.9.

OI really like my new to me 2004.5 DRW Quad cab due to its creature comforts, but in it's stock form it does not hold a candle to my 1996, power or MPG wise.

[Kennedycamper]

An exhaust brake should be standard equipment for pulling heavy with any diesel engine PU. It can and will save you.

[rhagfo]

Chuck .. wrote:
My truck is a standard 99 diesel 2500 SLT 2 wheel drive, club cab with 3.54 rear end gears. GVWR is 8,800, rear end rating is 6084 and front GAWR is 4,410.

I am not the type to just throw caution to the wind and haul an RV that will tear up my truck and or put my family and others in danger.

When I was about 23 years old, I lost my brakes coming down a paved logging road with a full load of fire wood in the back end. The friends that were following me thought that I lost it and was somewhere down at the bottom of a ravine, dead. By the grace of God I didn't drive the truck over a cliff and was able to drive the old pickup truck through 25 mile per hour curve, going sideways doing 55 to 60.

If I had a Go-Pro camera in my truck, I could have made a movie and sold it to Hollywood for a million. I'm sure it would have scared the hell out of most stunt drivers! And it sure scared me!

When towing anything now, I drive like a "smart" old man down hills. Not a dumb young kid that lays six foot under in a cemetery.

Chuck, not caution to the wind. If you read my signature, you will see I run a PacBrake with a manual transmission. I seldom need to touch the service brakes going down long grades. With the Camper package I have the same springs as a 3500 DRW,
I don't have or need air bags and keep up with front end mantainace so feel safe driving roads like below, between 55 to 60 mph.

[Chuck___]

My truck is a standard 99 diesel 2500 SLT 2 wheel drive, club cab with 3.54 rear end gears. GVWR is 8,800, rear end rating is 6084 and front GAWR is 4,410.

I am not the type to just throw caution to the wind and haul an RV that will tear up my truck and or put my family and others in danger.

When I was about 23 years old, I lost my brakes coming down a paved logging road with a full load of fire wood in the back end. The friends that were following me thought that I lost it and was somewhere down at the bottom of a ravine, dead. By the grace of God I didn't drive the truck over a cliff and was able to drive the old pickup truck through 25 mile per hour curve, going sideways doing 55 to 60.

If I had a Go-Pro camera in my truck, I could have made a movie and sold it to Hollywood for a million. I'm sure it would have scared the hell out of most stunt drivers! And it sure scared me!

When towing anything now, I drive like a "smart" old man down hills. Not a dumb young kid that lays six foot under in a cemetery.

[rhagfo]

Chuck .. wrote:
Please help me understand. I have a 1999 Dodge diesel 2500, Long bed, auto trans, cub cab, 2 wheel drive. The owner manual on page 148 says that this truck can tow maximum trailer weight of 10,200 with 3.54 axle ratio and 12,000 lbs maximum trailer with 4.10 axle ratio. The GCWR at the highest is 18,000.

I can't understand how you can operate/tow this unit safety and not tear up your truck? Most everyone on this forum and others said I can only haul a trailer around 9,000 lbs. "Dry Weight" safety and do not max out my truck!

Well a couple questions on the TV 99 2500 Ram.

What is your gear ratio?

Is the 5.9 chipped at all?

Is the Transmission Stock?

I pull/carry a 2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS with our 2001 2500 Camper Special Ram, we do it, but not a recommendation as you will well over GVWR! While with 2 WD, you gain a bit of payload over us.

Specs on the 5er.
Dry weight 9,820#
GVWR 12,360#
current towed weight about 11,000#

TV
GVWR 8,800#
GFAWR 5,200
GRAWR 6,084

Loaded TV
GFAW 4,500#
GRAW 5,500

GVW 10,000#

5er axles 9,500#

GCVW 19,500#

We run a small 50 hp and about 130 lb.ft. chip, and a 5 speed manual with a Double Disk clutch.
I do feel that I could pull/carry the full GVWR of the 5er!

[noteven]

Chuck .. wrote:
Please help me understand. I have a 1999 Dodge diesel 2500, Long bed, auto trans, cub cab, 2 wheel drive. The owner manual on page 148 says that this truck can tow maximum trailer weight of 10,200 with 3.54 axle ratio and 12,000 lbs maximum trailer with 4.10 axle ratio. The GCWR at the highest is 18,000.

I can't understand how you can operate/tow this unit safety and not tear up your truck? Most everyone on this forum and others said I can only haul a trailer around 9,000 lbs. "Dry Weight" safety and do not max out my truck!

The single rear wheel 10,000lbs GVWR is often not determined by the vehicle components. It is a convenience to commercial customers who live in jurisdictions that require a "CDL" for trucks over 10,000lbs GVWR.

[bucky]

Like a DA I traded my 7.3 F250 for a gasser dually and cash. Didn't take long to get back to diesel haha.
I bought a 98.5 QC LB 2WD 24V Cummins that was bought new from the dealership where I worked with every service record and receipt at 271K for $6500 2 years ago. Interior perfect and one small dent in the LH bedside where a drunk hit it on a bicycle one night in FL. New trans, lift pump, new injection pump, ball joints, and on and on.
The OO was retired military and anal about maint. There are deals out there, but timing is critical. You can't take a day to talk DW into it, it'll be gone. Point being, you can find your truck with $20k. FL and TX are your best bets. Some areas are stupid high on prices, be willing to travel for the right truck.

[rhagfo]

Chuck .. wrote:
Please help me understand. I have a 1999 Dodge diesel 2500, Long bed, auto trans, cub cab, 2 wheel drive. The owner manual on page 148 says that this truck can tow maximum trailer weight of 10,200 with 3.54 axle ratio and 12,000 lbs maximum trailer with 4.10 axle ratio. The GCWR at the highest is 18,000.

I can't understand how you can operate/tow this unit safety and not tear up your truck? Most everyone on this forum and others said I can only haul a trailer around 9,000 lbs. "Dry Weight" safety and do not max out my truck!

:h

You just need to tow over the GVWR! :B

This is on stock rear springs, and 10,000# TV Gross Vehicle Weight.



This rig loves roads like this!

[Chuck___]

Please help me understand. I have a 1999 Dodge diesel 2500, Long bed, auto trans, cub cab, 2 wheel drive. The owner manual on page 148 says that this truck can tow maximum trailer weight of 10,200 with 3.54 axle ratio and 12,000 lbs maximum trailer with 4.10 axle ratio. The GCWR at the highest is 18,000.

I can't understand how you can operate/tow this unit safety and not tear up your truck? Most everyone on this forum and others said I can only haul a trailer around 9,000 lbs. "Dry Weight" safety and do not max out my truck!

[SabreCanuck]

RAS43 wrote:
While the 7.3 engines were considered more reliable then others, what must be considered is the newest model is now 13 years old and most will be high milers. The engine may be okay but the chassis and other components will need work. I had a '99 and in it's eighth year the high pressure oil system in the engine and the transmission failed. Both breakdowns were while traveling. Not very reliable IMHO. And this truck was well maintained thru it's life with me.

Considering the OP Is trying to get a truck for under $20K I don't think appearance is going to be top focus. For the price, I would suspect a ton of miles and something 10 y ears old.

The other option that hasn't been tossed out is a Heavy Duty Truck..? It would be way overkill for this trailer but it's odd more people don't ask. I know around here you can pick up a used Volvo that probably has a lot of life left in it for $20K easy. Remember these things are Gov't safetied every 6 mths to 1 year max. so they should be mechanically sound (if anything is).

Not much for a daily driver, but you could tow anything you want with it and make extra money during the week doing deliveries. LOL

[RAS43]

While the 7.3 engines were considered more reliable then others, what must be considered is the newest model is now 13 years old and most will be high milers. The engine may be okay but the chassis and other components will need work. I had a '99 and in it's eighth year the high pressure oil system in the engine and the transmission failed. Both breakdowns were while traveling. Not very reliable IMHO. And this truck was well maintained thru it's life with me.