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Plate to plate gap

Billzo
Explorer
Explorer
Last year we bought our first trailer and it is a FW. When we went to hook it up, the salesman noticed a gap between the two plates, so he pulled the hitch that was stored in the trailer and we put it on the rails and when it hooked up, the gap was gone. The question I have is, was it possible that we high hitched? Was it possible the pin was too long for the hitch? Something else?

Working hitch: Reese 20k
Gap hitch: Curt Q20
Trailer: 1999 Mckenzie Monaco

I'd like to use the Q20 since it looks nicer, is brand new and has the rubber bushings to smooth out the haul.

We installed the teflon disk before either hitch was attempted. The gap was close to the height of another disk. It wasn't funny business by the salesman/owner because the hitch that worked didn't cost anything.
2000 McKenzie Monaco 36RLT
2014 Ram 2500 HD Outdoorsman SLT Longbed
16 REPLIES 16

Billzo
Explorer
Explorer
After some back and forth with Curt and a unsuccessful 30 minute attempt to get the trailer hitched, they sent me a complete top half hitch assembly (really would have preferred just the head assembly). I found a reproducable problem with the jaws; if the plastic kingpin that comes with a new hitch is pulled to the front of the hitch, the jaws will encircle the pin but the jaw half that moves up and down will not drop down until the forward pressure is relieved, then it will drop down. For some reason the trailer kingpin will not allow the jaw half to drop and thus won't lock the pin.

The new hitch head works fine as one would expect. New problem is that after I tested a successful hitch when I pulled away I noticed shavings of the plastic disk by the two bolts on the hitch plate. This is caused by the bolts being a fraction above the plate instead of below it. Currently discussing this situation with them.
2000 McKenzie Monaco 36RLT
2014 Ram 2500 HD Outdoorsman SLT Longbed

Billzo
Explorer
Explorer
That's what I'm hoping is the problem.

One other thing I noticed from the two tries at hitching was how the jaws enclosed the pin.

This was just below level approach of pin to hitch. Very smooth connect but resulted in the pitching forward look.



This was about a half-inch lower approach of pin to hitch. A slight bump as the plate slid up the receiver plate.

2000 McKenzie Monaco 36RLT
2014 Ram 2500 HD Outdoorsman SLT Longbed

12th_Man_Fan
Explorer
Explorer
It looks to me like the nose of the pinbox is pointed down a little bit which leaves a small gap in the back.

Since the jaws are firmly latched I think if you pulled it a few miles the problem will correct itself.

i think the rubber mount in the base of the hitch, being new is just stiff enough to hold the angle when parked but if you pulled it a little it will settle in ok.

Doug
2014 GMC Duramax 4X4 DRW Crew

2015 DRV Tradition

Billzo
Explorer
Explorer
Switched out the hitches today and am a bit concerned. I finally heard back from Curt technical and have sent him some photos of the connection. I'll provide them here as well.

This is with backward pressure at initial hookup.


Any gap at the front seems to be from the teflon plate.


I just noticed the difference in finger wrapping between reverse pressure and forward/neutral pressure.

2000 McKenzie Monaco 36RLT
2014 Ram 2500 HD Outdoorsman SLT Longbed

TomHaycraft
Explorer
Explorer
garyp4951 wrote:
I have seen one instance where the thickness of the teflon plate kept the jaws of the hitch from closing on the small part of the shank. The teflon was removed, and it hitched up ok.

I encountered the same thing. After moving to a long-bed truck and able to pin my Sidewinder and remove the wedge (to act like a conventional pinbox), I found the jaws wrapped so low on the king pin, the teflon plate lifted the pin slightly and made it temperamental to hitch properly. Over time, the plate has compressed or worn a bit and things are easier. This photo shows the grease marks from the jaws without the plate.

2013 Silverado 3500HD - Duramax/Allison - CC, long bed, SRW, 2WD
2017 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS - TST 507 TPMS

Durb
Explorer
Explorer
I have a hitch with 1" thick jaws. The upper shoulder of the kingpin would ride on the jaws and keep the hitch plate and pin box plate from touching. I had to stack a 1/4" teflon plate with a 1/8" plate in order to center the hitch jaws in the kingpin groove. Apparently all kingpins are not manufactured to the same specifications. Many people with the same hitch have to use an 1/8" plate only to make it work.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"Just don't listen to the noisy folks around here that tell you how their certain brand is so much better."

What R U talkin aboot eh??????
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have seen one instance where the thickness of the teflon plate kept the jaws of the hitch from closing on the small part of the shank. The teflon was removed, and it hitched up ok.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
When hitching lower the 5th wheel landing gear legs so that the 5vr pin box plate is at least 1" lower then the 5th wheel hitch head plate.

As you back into hitch.....pin box should engaged slope ears of hitch head plate then slide up and into hitch jaws. Can NOT High Hitch that way

This method will work on either of your hitches

Caveat:
This is for those 5th wheel hitches that do NOT have capture plates or other special features.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Billzo
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all, after your input and re-reading the hookup instructions for a Q20, it looks like a hitch switch with a retry is in order.
2000 McKenzie Monaco 36RLT
2014 Ram 2500 HD Outdoorsman SLT Longbed

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
EDIT: I just noticed I misread which hitch had the gap, so the below does not explain the issue. I'll just leave it here anyway, as food for thought.
**********


The below pic is my Reese. See how it has the fifth plate sandwiched on top of the hitch body?


Here is a pic of the Curt Q20. See how it does not have a separate fifth plate?


I think that is what the salesman was looking at. Completely normal, and you can see that gap in the pic of my Reese.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
If you like the Curt, I would install it again and do some testing.

A high hitch should leave more gap than the 1/8"-1/4" thickness of a plastic disk. Or the jaws wouldn't close. Can't really say from here, but lucky for you the salesman noticed something was amiss. Sounds like he didn't want to take any time to figure out the real reason. Now you know what to keep an eye out for, so you won't make that very common mistake.

That Reese is a good hitch too. A little paint on it, and you might find it to your liking.

Just don't listen to the noisy folks around here that tell you how their certain brand is so much better.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

the_bear_II
Explorer
Explorer
I would try the curt again now that you are more familiar with hitching a 5th wheel.

Most like was a high hitch error.

korbe
Explorer
Explorer
If I had your problem, while unhooked I would measure the pin length and also the clear distance below the hitch plate - and see what made sense.
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