Question to all WW FS3000 owners

[PyroTekRob]

I was wondering if any of the power outlets in the FS3000 work without the generator running. I have a tester, but haven't been able to get to the storage place in a few weeks, maybe I'll try this weekend to get out there.

Couple of months ago we we given a food saver which we are keeping in the trailer, tried to test it in the kitchen area, which didn't work unless the generator was running. Which I think kills the idea of running a coffee pot without starting the generator.

But I am hoping to be able to charge cell phones or battery chargers (18560 style batteries for headlamps and flashlights), or charge the 2 ways without having to run the generator everytime. Am I out of luck for that?

We have a solar power kit that keeps the batteries topped off for the trailer, runs lights, radio and the such great, with no real loss on the batteries. Will any outlet work without the generator?

[PyroTekRob]

Well that sucks. Hopefully it'll hold for this trip. I have no other options.

[lincster]

PyroTekRob wrote:
Looks like the wd hitch has 1000# and according to the Ford factory listing 1250# with WD. The guy I had bought the trailer from used this drawtite wd hitch for years with this trailer.

Wow. Wayyyyy underrated.

[Bedlam]

I know the RV dealer tried to use too small of a WDH with my TH and I didn't catch it until I got home and went over all the material. I returned it the same day and had them give me the properly sized WDH for my tongue weight. The previous owner of yours was probably oblivious that it was under rated for his load.

[PyroTekRob]

Looks like the wd hitch has 1000# and according to the Ford factory listing 1250# with WD. The guy I had bought the trailer from used this drawtite wd hitch for years with this trailer.

[lincster]

PyroTekRob wrote:

lincster wrote:

PyroTekRob wrote:

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.

Another question for all

What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

No opinion on air bags, but I do have one for WD hitches and that trailer.
I owned a FS3000, 2004.
I had a tongue weight scale and measured my tongue weight in different configurations.

1. Empty tanks and no toys: TW = 1400lbs.
2. Full water tank and no toys: TW = 1700lbs.
3. Full water and 4 full size quads in the back: TW = 1400lbs.

The point of this is you need a WD hitch with bars rated to at least 1400lbs.
There aren't many hitches out there rated that high, but they do exist.

I wont be hauling any toys this event. About half full on water. 10 Gal of gas. And loaded with my pyrotechnics gear.

I was given a Drawtite WD hitch with this trailer from the previous owner.

What is the rating on the bars and hitch head?

Based on half full on water and no toys, I am willing to bet your tongue weight is going to be 1500-1600lbs going down the road.

Good call on the receiver, I forgot about that one.
I had to upgrade that also on my F350.

[PyroTekRob]

Bedlam wrote:
You also need to look at your receiver ratings. Many of the OEM models (even the 2.5") will not handle that tongue weight for too long. Even my "little" FB2200 was right at the maximum of my 1250 lb OEM Ford receiver.

Hope it holds for a 500 mile trip. Then I can upgrade to a Class V.

[PyroTekRob]

htwheelz67 wrote:
Also check the expiration date on your co detectors they do wear out.

Thanks will check that. But the wires were cut.

[htwheelz67]

Also check the expiration date on your co detectors they do wear out.

[Bedlam]

You also need to look at your receiver ratings. Many of the OEM models (even the 2.5") will not handle that tongue weight for too long. Even my "little" FB2200 was right at the maximum of my 1250 lb OEM Ford receiver.

[allcool]

lincster wrote:

PyroTekRob wrote:

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.
I Always bleed out the air using a stove burner any time the tanks run out or after changing tanks. It cuts down on having to reset the frig lock out switch multiple times.
Usually we're busy setting up the TH and since the frig will just try 1 time for 45 seconds start cycle, its not uncommon to come back to the frig a few hours latter and to our dismay its off on lockout from air in the line...
Once stove burner lights, at least air is bleed out of lines up to the tee that branches off to the refrigerator. Now 1 automatic attempt at starting the frig should bleed the rest of the air out without needing to reset the automatic shutdown switch for another 45 seconds of starting cycle.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.
Imo, don't mess with the safety equipment at all. Its there for a reason and wired up how it should be. If you did wire in a off/on switch, if you ever forgot to turn it on...
Those safety devices could save your life, or others life. They just have to be running 100% of the time. Unfortunately I've seen people carried out of a TH in body bags from asphyxiation.
When turning power off/on that little whine only last a couple of seconds. I like it. It confirms power is off or on. Usually the reason someone messes with those is because the batteries are low or dying and the whine and warning noise won't stop because of low battery voltage.

Another question for all
What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

No opinion on air bags, but I do have one for WD hitches and that trailer.
I owned a FS3000, 2004.
I had a tongue weight scale and measured my tongue weight in different configurations.

1. Empty tanks and no toys: TW = 1400lbs.
2. Full water tank and no toys: TW = 1700lbs.
3. Full water and 4 full size quads in the back: TW = 1400lbs.

The point of this is you need a WD hitch with bars rated to at least 1400lbs.
There aren't many hitches out there rated that high, but they do exist.

HaHa... lightweights,,, lol
iirr, that model,,, didn't WW call it an ultra light... lol

My WW broke the Sherline scales 2000lb gauge.
Had to order the 5000lb gauge for my fsw3200. 5000lb gauge head works good, right in the middle of the gauges range now.

What size drawtite did you get with your TH..?
lincster is right, you need a beefy WD hitch. Some new ones have come out recently that have 2000 & 1700 lb tw capacity with a single stinger receiver. Blue ox is one, Reese another.

[PyroTekRob]

lincster wrote:

PyroTekRob wrote:

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.

Another question for all

What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

No opinion on air bags, but I do have one for WD hitches and that trailer.
I owned a FS3000, 2004.
I had a tongue weight scale and measured my tongue weight in different configurations.

1. Empty tanks and no toys: TW = 1400lbs.
2. Full water tank and no toys: TW = 1700lbs.
3. Full water and 4 full size quads in the back: TW = 1400lbs.

The point of this is you need a WD hitch with bars rated to at least 1400lbs.
There aren't many hitches out there rated that high, but they do exist.

I wont be hauling any toys this event. About half full on water. 10 Gal of gas. And loaded with my pyrotechnics gear.

I was given a Drawtite WD hitch with this trailer from the previous owner.

[lincster]

PyroTekRob wrote:

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.

Another question for all

What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

No opinion on air bags, but I do have one for WD hitches and that trailer.
I owned a FS3000, 2004.
I had a tongue weight scale and measured my tongue weight in different configurations.

1. Empty tanks and no toys: TW = 1400lbs.
2. Full water tank and no toys: TW = 1700lbs.
3. Full water and 4 full size quads in the back: TW = 1400lbs.

The point of this is you need a WD hitch with bars rated to at least 1400lbs.
There aren't many hitches out there rated that high, but they do exist.

[PyroTekRob]

BigDogF250 wrote:
On the water heater, do you have a switch panel over the stove? Mine does, and it has a switch for the water heater there. You can also just turn off the water pump if someone isn't observing your suggestions about the amount of water they use. Personally, I tell them they get 30 seconds to get wet, then they should turn off the flow at the nozzle (there is a black button there to do that), soap up, then 90 seconds of water to rinse. 2 minutes of water at roughly 3 gallons a minute (I opened up the flow on my shower a bit) is 6 gallons. It's the grey tank that will fill up long before the fresh water runs out. Camped in the desert (a state park) you are not supposed to get caught dumping grey water. The plants don't care but the rangers do.

Luckily at this event in 10 days, there is a guy that comes around and will dump the tanks for us. For a small fee.

[PyroTekRob]

nayther wrote:


not uncommon to get a check light when you change tanks or run it dry. The igniter will try to light the pilot a number of times and if it fails to sense a flame due to no gas (air in the line) it will show a trouble code (check light) and shut down. turn it off and back on on gas and it should light. Before doing that bleed the gas line at the stove.

Thanks, I didnt even think to bleed it using the stove.

Was in the trailer trying to make sure everything works and noticed someone cut or disconnected the wires to the Propane and Carbon M sensors. I think i see why, when clicking the power off that little whine is kind of annoying. Debating on installing little power switches on them.

Another question for all

What does the tongue of your FSC3000s measure leveled? I was getting about 27 to 28 inches. My lady thinks the ground is unlevel, but seems pretty level to me. I think my hitch was to low and my WD not set up right which is why I had so much sag before.

I was also told not to run my air bags for leveling with WD. only a few psi for ride comfort. Whats everyone opinion or experience running air bags and WD Hitches?

[Bedlam]

If it's the the gray tank you are worried about, make them use the outside shower. I have three 42 gallon tanks of fresh water and two 30 gallon gray tanks when I have my truck camper and enclosed trailer tanks available. I like my long hot showers and pack accordingly.