Refreshing fiberglas

[5th_wheel_trave]

Does anyone know of a detail shop or any repair shop that can revitalize the fiberglas on my 2000 Excel fifth wheel? I have some areas showing oxidization and the finish is dull. I don't know if it is repairable or can be fixed by a good detail shop. I live in the Milwaukie, OR area but would be willing to travel some for a good job.

[blofgren]

ckwizard777 wrote:
I got tired of standing on the ladder just to polish the front and rear caps all the time so I had them clear coated last year.
Shiney all the time now.

Interesting; did you have any prep done on the caps before they were done? And did you have this done at a body shop? I would be very interested in getting this done as well.

[kkuhl]

meguiars cleaner wax will bring out the shine.i apply remove with buffer w/microfiber pad. donot use a grinder with buffer pad will burn surface if not careful.

[tartan_camper]

I use Meguiar's 49 Oxidation Remover. I bought it at a boat dealer and it works very well! Cost me $12.95 for a 16oz bottle.

[buta4]

Bowti wrote:

Terryallan wrote:

Bowti wrote:

Terryallan wrote:
Best way to bring back the shine. Water sand it with 500+ grit water paper. then buff, and wax.

however try a good Cleaner Wax first. May be all it needs

500 grit wet sanding is too aggressive, better to be in the 1000, 1200, or 1500 range before buffing. Of course everyone differs some what on this, depending on surface condition, rubbing compounds used, and expected finish desired.

I would not recommend wet sanding for someone who has not had experience or training in it.

I did it for a living. I was the "Boat Doctor". and truly we used 400 grit Water paper. which is way different than regular sand paper. Then I buffed if out with compound, and waxed it. I have to brag a little. When I was done. you couldn't tell it was ever scratched, or dulled. And when a new boat was drilled wrong.. You couldn't see the bad place when I was done.

I also rebuilt molds for new boats. they had to have prefect finishes. Because the GelCoat goes on first. The fiberglass is sprayed / chopped, to the GelCoat.

Now, you are saying to wet sand with 400 grit and then buff. I stand with my original statement, we are talking about finishes on rv's.

So can you tell me how fiberglass on boats is different from fiberglass on RV's?

[jstar]

I wouldn't recommend wet sanding unless its really in bad shape, test with rubbing compound first if that isn't enough then go with 1000 to 1500 emory cloth which is wet sand paper.

[Fulltimers]

ksbowman wrote:
The black paper that is called wet or dry sand paper. I always use it with water though.

OK. I am familiar with Wet or Dry sand paper but never heard it called Water paper before.

[Bowti]

Terryallan wrote:

Bowti wrote:

Terryallan wrote:
Best way to bring back the shine. Water sand it with 500+ grit water paper. then buff, and wax.

however try a good Cleaner Wax first. May be all it needs

500 grit wet sanding is too aggressive, better to be in the 1000, 1200, or 1500 range before buffing. Of course everyone differs some what on this, depending on surface condition, rubbing compounds used, and expected finish desired.

I would not recommend wet sanding for someone who has not had experience or training in it.

I did it for a living. I was the "Boat Doctor". and truly we used 400 grit Water paper. which is way different than regular sand paper. Then I buffed if out with compound, and waxed it. I have to brag a little. When I was done. you couldn't tell it was ever scratched, or dulled. And when a new boat was drilled wrong.. You couldn't see the bad place when I was done.

I also rebuilt molds for new boats. they had to have prefect finishes. Because the GelCoat goes on first. The fiberglass is sprayed / chopped, to the GelCoat.

Now, you are saying to wet sand with 400 grit and then buff. I stand with my original statement, we are talking about finishes on rv's.

[blacktop]

Star Brite and hard work.

[ksbowman]

The black paper that is called wet or dry sand paper. I always use it with water though.

[Fulltimers]

What is Water paper?

[Terryallan]

Bowti wrote:

Terryallan wrote:
Best way to bring back the shine. Water sand it with 500+ grit water paper. then buff, and wax.

however try a good Cleaner Wax first. May be all it needs

500 grit wet sanding is too aggressive, better to be in the 1000, 1200, or 1500 range before buffing. Of course everyone differs some what on this, depending on surface condition, rubbing compounds used, and expected finish desired.

I would not recommend wet sanding for someone who has not had experience or training in it.

I did it for a living. I was the "Boat Doctor". and truly we used 400 grit Water paper. which is way different than regular sand paper. Then I buffed if out with compound, and waxed it. I have to brag a little. When I was done. you couldn't tell it was ever scratched, or dulled. And when a new boat was drilled wrong.. You couldn't see the bad place when I was done.

I also rebuilt molds for new boats. they had to have prefect finishes. Because the GelCoat goes on first. The fiberglass is sprayed / chopped, to the GelCoat.

[ckwizard777]

I got tired of standing on the ladder just to polish the front and rear caps all the time so I had them clear coated last year.
Shiney all the time now.

[Bowti]

Terryallan wrote:
Best way to bring back the shine. Water sand it with 500+ grit water paper. then buff, and wax.

however try a good Cleaner Wax first. May be all it needs

500 grit wet sanding is too aggressive, better to be in the 1000, 1200, or 1500 range before buffing. Of course everyone differs some what on this, depending on surface condition, rubbing compounds used, and expected finish desired.

I would not recommend wet sanding for someone who has not had experience or training in it.

[RAS43]

5th wheel traveler wrote:
Does anyone know of a detail shop or any repair shop that can revitalize the fiberglas on my 2000 Excel fifth wheel? I have some areas showing oxidization and the finish is dull. I don't know if it is repairable or can be fixed by a good detail shop. I live in the Milwaukie, OR area but would be willing to travel some for a good job.

If you don't want to try to repair it yourself as others are suggesting then ask a couple of RV dealers where they send such work. Or find a commercial truck/trailer repair shop and ask them.