Replace wet bolt jacking question

[Jerry_B]

I want to replace the wet bolts which are located on the fore and aft frame mounted spring hangers. The bolts in the center on the TrailAir Center Point system are ok. Could someone give me jacking details and any other words of wisdom on how to replace these bolts? The reason I want to replace them is that they are free to rotate. The knurled ends are not holding the bolts from rotating. Thanks a lot.

[MNRon]

Ditto what AZCL said, including the deference to 'OB'

[ACZL]

OB (kinda like Obe-won-kanobe--LOL, sorry couldn't resist). I agree with you somewhat on what you're saying about jacking directly under the spring u-bolts. But in reality, that requires crawling under the trailer to do so. I think using a bottle jack directly under frame in front of front axle tire then place a HD jack stand under frame (both in front and behind rear axle) is best. Perhaps a bit of overkill having 2 jackstands, but.........

In this fashion, both tires can be removed and the use of a floor jack under the u-bolts to support as needed can be had. I know at work, if a semi trailer has a flat, we put a jack under the axle/u-bolts, but have heard often on this forum, that's a no-no. What the diff is, I'm not sure, but I'll go for the frame. Plus if jacked in front 1st axle, both tires should come off the ground.

No need to stray from OP question, just some opinions to which he's asking for.

[Old-Biscuit]

Miles Away wrote:
DO NOT support the weight of your trailer on the axle tubes as stated above, you may damage and or bend the axles. You must first jack and support the weight of the trailer with jack stands UNDER THE FRAME, then feel free to jack up the axle, remove the wheels and do what ever else you need to do to drop the leaf springs and replace the wet bolts.

Not if jacked under spring perch......where ALL the trailer weight is supported by axle tube.

Bending of axle tubes occurs when jacked farther inboard.
Statements by mfg. is 'CYA' by legal department.

[Miles_Away]

DO NOT support the weight of your trailer on the axle tubes as stated above, you may damage and or bend the axles. You must first jack and support the weight of the trailer with jack stands UNDER THE FRAME, then feel free to jack up the axle, remove the wheels and do what ever else you need to do to drop the leaf springs and replace the wet bolts.

[fj12ryder]

Like Old-Biscuit said: if the bolt is turning in the hanger then most likely the hole in the hanger is slightly elongated and will require the hanger to be repaired. Either by rebushing the hole or installing a new hanger.

[Allworth]

My method: (I'm sure there are others)

Hook to the truck, raise landing gear and stabilizers, chock the far side wheels.

Use a bottle jack just behind (or ahead of) the spring hanger, blocked up as necessary to get sufficient lift to get the wheel off the ground. I use 12" sections of 4x4 fence post for blocking. Put cribbing or a heavy jack stand so the frame can't fall and remove the wheel.

A driveway jack or the jack out of the truck under the spring platform will make it easy to micro adjust the end of the axle so the spring eye stays aligned with the spring hanger holes.

Replace the bolt. You may have to reverse it if the hole in the hanger is bushed out slightly, keeping the splined head from grabbing.

Move on to the next wheel.

[Old-Biscuit]

Place jack under axle tube where springs are attached.

Remove wheel

Place jack stand under axle tube......other side of spring perch. Set it's height to 'catch' axle for that just in case situation.

You will need to be able to move (jack) axle up/down to relieve pressure on spring eyes.

If current bolts are 'spinning' you will probably find that holes in shackles have enlarged and they will need repaired before new wet bolts will work