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Service, landing gear down, or while still hooked to truck?

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
In the past, I normally stay connected to my truck, when raising the axle slightly, to adjust brakes, or do bearing work. My thinking was less stress to the frame and landing gear.

I am going to do some servicing over several days, and would like others thoughts about raising axles, one side at a time, just enough to remove wheels, with the landing gear down. Have I been overly cautious in the past, or do you think this may stress landing gear and frame?

Appreciate others opinions,

Jerry
19 REPLIES 19

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Braces wrote:
If you add 2" to the inside of the wheel well you might face the possibility of the tires hitting the wheel well on some of our nice, smooth, no bump roads. Happened to me when I went up a little on tire size and hit a really rough road section.


You are correct...taking away 2"s of clearance in the well, would not work in most cases. I will be replacing, not adding. My FW is designed with a 6 sided 2.5" square tube aluminum cage. I will slice the Darco wrap that covers bottom of tubing, remove existing fiber insulation, replace with above mentioned, glue Darco back to solid insulation. I will be adding 4mm thick coroplast over the fix. I will still have nearly 3"s of tire to WW clearance as 4mm (a long 1/8 inch) is all that will be added.

My question/concern was raising the axles to remove tires, with the landing gear down, not connected to truck, causing stress.

Jerry

Braces
Explorer
Explorer
If you add 2" to the inside of the wheel well you might face the possibility of the tires hitting the wheel well on some of our nice, smooth, no bump roads. Happened to me when I went up a little on tire size and hit a really rough road section.

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Nope, I bought as big a FW as I could, to keep at home 31' OAL. This allows 4"s from garage eve, and pin box right at edge of public sidewalk. I put my MC trailer tongue under FW, and other end under pin box, so no one can possibly hit their head.

Truck connected...across side walk, apron, and in street. I may want to remove both wheels, same side, for best access.

If I leave truck connected, it would be at a shop a couple miles away, so not so handy.

Jerry

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
You just don’t have room to leave truck attached?
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Jerry this item works wonders!!! I have done maintenance and road side repair with this wonder.

TrailerAid Plus



Yes Ron, those work great for a lot of uses. I like my trailer aid plus, especially for brake adjustment, as then there's nothing in the way to use brake tool. I've used it once in an emergency road side issue. Nothing quicker, to get her done, on a busy interstate.

Just not going to work, if I do it at home, truck unhooked.

Jerry

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
garyp4951 wrote:
MFL wrote:
Thanks for the replies! I plan to rebuild my wheel wells to make them more water proof. I try to avoid towing in the rain, as the nylon Darco covering has a few holes, with fiber insulation above, and then floor above that. I plan to use 2" extruded closed cell foam insulation, a layer of foil faced bubble water proof insulation, and cover all with 4mm coroplast.

This project will take a while, as I have other daily obligations that take me off the job. It would be nice to not tie up the truck, being connected for 3-5 days, but seems others feel like me...best to leave connected, landing gear up.

Any other thoughts/replies appreciated,

Jerry



Jerry, I have to do the same thing, my new FW just has the black tarp looking material in the wheel wells, what a stupid thing for manufacturers to do.
I'm thinking of using the pvc material sheets at Lowes for bathrooms on mine.


Yes Gary, while that Darco actually is pretty rugged, a rock, stick, or flying road debris will cause a puncture. Wouldn't matter so much, but with fiber insulation above, getting wet, could lead to flooring issue.

Jerry

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Jerry this item works wonders!!! I have done maintenance and road side repair with this wonder.

TrailerAid Plus

2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III
MFL wrote:
Thanks for the replies! I plan to rebuild my wheel wells to make them more water proof. I try to avoid towing in the rain, as the nylon Darco covering has a few holes, with fiber insulation above, and then floor above that. I plan to use 2" extruded closed cell foam insulation, a layer of foil faced bubble water proof insulation, and cover all with 4mm coroplast.

This project will take a while, as I have other daily obligations that take me off the job. It would be nice to not tie up the truck, being connected for 3-5 days, but seems others feel like me...best to leave connected, landing gear up.

Any other thoughts/replies appreciated,

Jerry



Jerry, I have to do the same thing, my new FW just has the black tarp looking material in the wheel wells, what a stupid thing for manufacturers to do.
I'm thinking of using the pvc material sheets at Lowes for bathrooms on mine.

FlatBroke
Explorer II
Explorer II
I got 48 hours to service my trailer in front of my house. Code says it Must NOT be unhooked.

Hitch Hiker
"08" 29.5 FKTG LS

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Thanks for the added thoughts and opinions! I think I'll try it disconnected, as I'll only need to raise the axle about two inches to remove tire/wheel, while doing one side. I'll use my 8" high wood blocks under landing gear, so I won't need to use much of the landing leg extensions.

I jack under a U-bolt, using a hardwood 2x4 that is cut out, to just fit one of the U-bolts. I have a rubber padded jack stand to put under the axle tube near axle end. My axles are 5200 lb, and seem robust.

Jerry

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
I never leave the truck hooked to the trailer while I'm working on it.

While doing brake work or just changing a flat while my rv trailer....bumper pull trailers....stock trailers....GN equipment trailers....cargo trailers sits on the concrete pad in front of my garage I use a hyd floor jack under the axle tube next to the U bolt on a std leaf suspension and lift just enough to remove the wheel. Nothing gets stressed...bent...crushed....twisted by doing so.

Out on the road or sitting in a campsite I use my trusty old 12T shorty hyd jack 1978 Trucker Special with a 10" X 10" base in place of the floor jack doing the same.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

Tom_Cooper
Explorer
Explorer
This is a rather sensitive topic. It seems to be doing everything right, but the jack once bent the chassis to me. It was very disappointing

ksbowman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm with Old-biscuits thought. I changed axles with the landing gear and jacks with jack stand supporting the weight. Very stable and I had mine up several days.

azdryheat
Explorer
Explorer
When I work on my trailer, when needed, I put all 6 jacks down to raise the tires off the ground. Did that today as I'm changing the suspension from Equa-Flex to E-Z Flex. I still use jack stands under the axles to be safe.
2013 Chevy 3500HD CC dually
2014 Voltage 3600 toy hauler
2019 RZR 1000XP TRE