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Setting Up Tow Vehicle w/hitch, Etc

Al_H
Explorer
Explorer
Looking at buying a 3500 Ram Mega Cab with short box and wondering if this may be problem towing a fifth wheel trailer. Is a special hitch required so the cab does not hit the trailer? Also about how much would it cost to set up the truck with hitch, wiring, etc? I would install myself but what is an approximate cost for hitch and related parts? The truck does not have the goose neck hitch set up option, only the class 4 hitch and wiring.
Thanks!
36 REPLIES 36

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
2012Coleman wrote:
Here's my 2 cents:

Why the mega cab? I have the crew cab and there is more room than my kids and dog need back there. The mega cab gives you the ability to recline the back seat and takes away bed length.

I didn't have the factory installed pucks, so I bought them from the dealer and had a custom welding/hitch shop install them - same guy has done this for me twice. He installed the in bed plug. The good news on that is that you don't have to splice any wires - its plug and play. After drilling the hole for it.

I read all the comments of those who say "I have a short bed and have never had to slide". Or - "If you are aware of your surroundings - blah blah". Well, I bought the B&W companion slider from ETrailer.com. Brought the new fifth wheel home and proceed to back up into the driveway on residential street without sliding. Didn't take long to hear the sound of breaking glass. And you can pay attention all you want, but you just can't see the corner of the trailer through the back pillar - unless you have X-Ray vision. Slid the trailer back and was amazed at how much easier it was backing. Went on the shake down trip with plastic over the back window. Sure, there are situations where I don't have to slide but every camp site I've been to has required it - with the exception of the one pull through site, and backing into my driveway - well, lesson learned.

So if you have a big piece of land and don't ever expect to be in a situation where you are backing at a sharp angle, by all means, get the non sliding hitch with your short bed (even shorter with mega cab) pickup.

The auto sliding hitches I researched required that you back up straight into the hitch - not at an angle. If you get the wheel to wheel side steps, you won't need a step stool or to hop on the tire to release the handle for either the jaws or slider. The B&W is a great hitch - compare to the others. Etrailer will drop ship it for free.

Too be fair, the B&W slider is heavy. I have to remove the tail gate and remove it with an engine puller. They make a gizmo that you lock into the jaws. You can then hook to it and lift the whole hitch at once. But I can do that myself. Unless you have a couple of friends at hand.

Good luck.



First,lets get the bed lengths straightened out. Its apparent you are not aware of the lengths. The short bed Crew cab Ram truck is 6'-4" in the 2500, 3500. The bed length in Ram megacab is the exact same length 6'-4" in the 2500,3500. So if its a Megacab you wanted, but thought the bed was shorter , you messed up .

Megacab is not offered in the long bed 8', although it can be done aftermarket.

So as far as bed length you lose NOTHING with the Megacab over the crewcab, but you do gain some extra wheelbase, as well as storage in the back seat. NO the bed in the Megacab is NOT SHORTER then the crewcab

I too have a slider, and blah blah blah, I have never "HAD" to slide it back in the 11 years that I have towed the same fifth wheel with two different trucks, same hitch. The one thing I do, its the same as you, I slide the hitch back to back into my RV pad at home. It seems to turn, and respond better doing it that way, has nothing to do with hitting the cab, have backed in with the hitch in both positions, and having it back seems to be easier.

You seem to be contradicting yourself , I agree there is somewhat of a blind spot with part of the front of the fifth wheel, sure you can't see all of it, but you sure can see the part thats going to take out your back window. I have no doubt people do these things, but sorry there is situational awareness.

garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III


This gizmo plus an electric HF ceiling hoist make it a 10 minute job.

2012Coleman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here's my 2 cents:

Why the mega cab? I have the crew cab and there is more room than my kids and dog need back there. The mega cab gives you the ability to recline the back seat and takes away bed length.

I didn't have the factory installed pucks, so I bought them from the dealer and had a custom welding/hitch shop install them - same guy has done this for me twice. He installed the in bed plug. The good news on that is that you don't have to splice any wires - its plug and play. After drilling the hole for it.

I read all the comments of those who say "I have a short bed and have never had to slide". Or - "If you are aware of your surroundings - blah blah". Well, I bought the B&W companion slider from ETrailer.com. Brought the new fifth wheel home and proceed to back up into the driveway on residential street without sliding. Didn't take long to hear the sound of breaking glass. And you can pay attention all you want, but you just can't see the corner of the trailer through the back pillar - unless you have X-Ray vision. Slid the trailer back and was amazed at how much easier it was backing. Went on the shake down trip with plastic over the back window. Sure, there are situations where I don't have to slide but every camp site I've been to has required it - with the exception of the one pull through site, and backing into my driveway - well, lesson learned.

So if you have a big piece of land and don't ever expect to be in a situation where you are backing at a sharp angle, by all means, get the non sliding hitch with your short bed (even shorter with mega cab) pickup.

The auto sliding hitches I researched required that you back up straight into the hitch - not at an angle. If you get the wheel to wheel side steps, you won't need a step stool or to hop on the tire to release the handle for either the jaws or slider. The B&W is a great hitch - compare to the others. Etrailer will drop ship it for free.

Too be fair, the B&W slider is heavy. I have to remove the tail gate and remove it with an engine puller. They make a gizmo that you lock into the jaws. You can then hook to it and lift the whole hitch at once. But I can do that myself. Unless you have a couple of friends at hand.

Good luck.
Experience without good judgment is worthless; good judgment without experience is still good judgment!

2018 RAM 3500 Big Horn CTD
2018 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

MudChucker
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
MudChucker wrote:
Btw I have the mega cab... I've never had to slide my hitch. If you buy the ram box you will need the sidewinder hitch that pivots at the pin box and not in the truck.


I have seen a couple of Mega cabs with dented cabs.


And I've seen a full size f350 dually with a dented cab and crushed fender.

To slide or not will really depend on the trailer design... How ever to my point, I've never had to slide my hitch and I get into some tight spaces. Only caveat here is that I can tell that if my trailer tires should any more than a foot higher then the tow vehicle on a tight cut, I may have to slide or straighten out a bit.
2017 Cougar
2015 Ram 3500 Megacab 6.7 Cummins Aisin transmission

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Al H wrote:
wvcampers wrote:
My SIL uses the Andersen Ultimate with his Magacab short bed. He is towing a Heartland Sundance with no problems.


Thanks for the information so far, I researched the Anderson Ultimate and really like it. Cost is about $700 for the hitch, chains if needed are another $90. Also found the B&W ball mount at about $500 so $1200-$1300 is about the cost plus installation which I can handle, probably take a half day or so.


I'm a B&W fanboy, so will always recommend them, in any form. As the RAMs are really short, you'd likely be best served with a slider of some sort. If you get an auto-slider, be aware that B&W does not support the use of them and will void their warranty if you do use one.

Also, if you do go with the AUH, spend the money for the chains. There are states that consider it a ball hitch, no different than a bumper pull, and =require= chains. AZ is one of them. Now, actual enforcement is a different story...

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
MudChucker wrote:
Btw I have the mega cab... I've never had to slide my hitch. If you buy the ram box you will need the sidewinder hitch that pivots at the pin box and not in the truck.


I have seen a couple of Mega cabs with dented cabs.



I too have the Mega cab, towed with both a slider, and the Andersen. No issues with either, and no dented cab. A reminder to you, the Ram shortbed length is the same in a crew cab as it is in the mega cab. 2500's or 3500's , no difference. I too have never had to slide my hitch back. I have seen dented cabs in other brands of trucks, granted the Rams are the shortest of the three short beds

So if you are seeing dented mega cabs ,you could very well see the same on the crew cab Ram short beds .

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
MudChucker wrote:
Btw I have the mega cab... I've never had to slide my hitch. If you buy the ram box you will need the sidewinder hitch that pivots at the pin box and not in the truck.


I have seen a couple of Mega cabs with dented cabs.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

MudChucker
Explorer
Explorer
Btw I have the mega cab... I've never had to slide my hitch. If you buy the ram box you will need the sidewinder hitch that pivots at the pin box and not in the truck.
2017 Cougar
2015 Ram 3500 Megacab 6.7 Cummins Aisin transmission

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
MudChucker wrote:
Yeah, buy the wedge kit and put the plug inside the bed, save your tail gate from the wire rub rash.


Or from having the cord slip over the corner of the bed and rip out the 7-way from the bumper. Had this happen TWICE with my GN trailer. After the 2nd time, I had my truck in the hitch shop the next week for the in-bed plug.

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Al H wrote:
Looking at buying a 3500 Ram Mega Cab with short box and wondering if this may be problem towing a fifth wheel trailer. Is a special hitch required so the cab does not hit the trailer? Also about how much would it cost to set up the truck with hitch, wiring, etc? I would install myself but what is an approximate cost for hitch and related parts? The truck does not have the goose neck hitch set up option, only the class 4 hitch and wiring.
Thanks!


Buying New or used?
If buying new get 5th wheel prep, you have pucks and wiring in bed already. Mega cab only has a 6' bed, as a Park Host have seen several with dented cabs, and broken rear windows.
If buying used you may find one with those options. If used how new, Ram changed most of their GVWR numbers big time in 2013, something to think of. The link below will help with the hunt new or used, it will provide the build sheet with GVWR, axle ratio, and transmission besides other information.

Ram VIN decoder

donn0128 wrote:
Sadly with the mega cab configuration you end up with a short short bed. Once you get past the weight issues trying to find a hitch that might work could be a choir. The 3500 mega realisticslly has the load capacity of a quad 2500. Picking carefully a mega can be a good tow vehicle.


Donn, since 2013 the Mega cab 3500 DRW has a GVWR of 14,000#, I know before 2013 the GVWR was like 10,500!!
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

Al_H
Explorer
Explorer
good point on inside box wiring and receptacle. We have a shop truck that we pull a gooseneck trailer but we always have the tailgate off so no big deal plugging in. With tailgate the cord would have to be long

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Super_Dave wrote:
garyp4951 wrote:
Don't forget the wiring harness for inside the bed. etrailer.com

I've always used the bumper plug for mine.


HA, I used to do that also. Then one day coming off a long offramp I had NO brakes. My cable had pulled out somehow. NOT a good feeling.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

MudChucker
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, buy the wedge kit and put the plug inside the bed, save your tail gate from the wire rub rash.
2017 Cougar
2015 Ram 3500 Megacab 6.7 Cummins Aisin transmission

Super_Dave
Explorer
Explorer
garyp4951 wrote:
Don't forget the wiring harness for inside the bed. etrailer.com

I've always used the bumper plug for mine.
Truck: 2006 Dodge 3500 Dually
Rig: 2018 Big Country 3155 RLK
Boat: 21' North River Seahawk

garyp4951
Explorer III
Explorer III
Don't forget the wiring harness for inside the bed. etrailer.com