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SuperLube Axles

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
Hi Guys, i have a winnebago 27rls (2016 Model). Everything i read said not to use the superlube axles feature as you run the risk of getting grease on your brakes.

Its been about 10 years since i last packed bearings by hand. Is there anything special with the super lube axles that i have to know before i take them apart? Im assuming i can just pull the wheel off and the drum and i should have access to the bearings that way? Also should i replace the seals?

My next step is to see if i have any paperwork on these axles to find the part number of the seals.
57 REPLIES 57

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
The GOOD stuff!




Why is the NLGI grade important though? The grease i used is grade 1 but its actually thicker than some of the greases they recommended with grade 2. I imagine its thinner at work temperatures as its pretty good stuff to work with and pack the bearings but at the rated temps of 40 and 100 degrees Celsius its actually thicker. This leads me to believe that a thinner working temp will be less likely to blow out the rear seal if i choose to use the super lube/ ez lube function in the future. It also has 5% moly which is supposed to be good for heavy applications.

EDIT: i did speak with support at philips 66, i gave them the specs that lippert was asking for from the manual. He said im more than fine with the megaplex XD5 # 1. The consistency meets minimum thickness at operating temps (Minimum 150 SCT from the manual). The consistency is lower at ambient temp but he was in agreement that it will make it less likely to pop out the rear bearing seal when using the ez lube system. The only issue he said might be if you were using this in a hi speed situation where the bearings are out in the open which might cause the grease to fling off. Even than though if that were the case the grease that lippert specified is thinner at 40 degrees C which would fling faster.

The main things as far as im concerned:

Dropping point
viscosity index
viscosity at 40C and 100C

the megaplex XD5 exceeded all of these and has the added 5% moly which will further lubricate.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
The GOOD stuff!


2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
Just checked the data sheets and compared it to multiplex red #2. Looks like the megaplex #1 is actually a little thicker (higher SCi index) At both 40c and 100c. So this should be good news.

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
Lynnmor wrote:
More thickener in #2 so it will stay in the bearing better. Good LUCK.


So too thin? I check the viscosity at 40 degrees Celsius from the spec sheet and it seems fine, I think the benefit of the grease I have is it's not as thick at colder temps and suitable for winter.

I'm likely going to pull them next year anyways again just to see how they are doing and probably swap in some #2 grease instead. I'm sure for the 1000 miles I have yet this year to drive the unit it should be fine.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
More thickener in #2 so it will stay in the bearing better. Good LUCK.

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
ALright so i got the job done, i used the wrong grease though. I used Philips/Conoco 66 Megaplex XD5 Grade #1 with 5% moly. I used grade 1 only because it matched the spec in the manual closest to the viscosity at the temperature specified. Does anyone see any problems with this grease? Its also thinner and more workable at cold temperatures so i thought it would make it substantially easier to use the EZ lube feature if I wanted to and reduce the chances of grease popping the seal out. Its actually a construction equipment Lube and i use something very similar on my front end loader tractor. It has a very high dropping point. It says great for wheels bearings on heavy equipment where shock loading or heavy duty is a requirement.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
TxGearhead wrote:
fj12ryder wrote:
May have something to do with the fact that very few RV's get dunked in salt water.


My point was that if they are good enough to run 7-10 years with no maintenance, while being submerged in salt water, they should be plenty good for a RV.
But perhaps also unnecessarily expensive.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

TxGearhead
Explorer II
Explorer II
fj12ryder wrote:
May have something to do with the fact that very few RV's get dunked in salt water.


My point was that if they are good enough to run 7-10 years with no maintenance, while being submerged in salt water, they should be plenty good for a RV.
2018 Ram 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4 Cummins Aisin Laramie Pearl White
2018 Landmark Oshkosh
2008 Bigfoot 25C9.4
2014 NauticStar 21 ShallowBay 150HP Yamaha
2016 GoDevil 18X44 35HP Surface Drive

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
fj12ryder wrote:
This is from the Dexter EZ-Lube manual:

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be followed.

For E-Z Lubeยฎ axles using the new nut retainer:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force).

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.

4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.


YUP
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
This is from the Dexter EZ-Lube manual:

If the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be followed.

For E-Z Lubeยฎ axles using the new nut retainer:

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force).

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the nut until just snug, align the retainer to the machined flat on the spindle and press the retainer onto the nut. The retainer should snap into place. Once in place, the retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly.

4. If the nut is too tight, remove the retainer and back the nut off approximately one twelfth of a turn and reinstall the retainer. The nut should now be free to move slightly.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
So just reinstall the hub and tighten the castle nut finger tight?

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
kuziwk wrote:


So should I just tighten them finger tight? Any harm in torquing them down and backing off?


Here is the instructions from Dexter, others brands are all the same.

After a new bearing install the instructions say to tighten to 50 lbs, but that high figure isn't necessary when doing basic service after the initial install.

Note that there is no preload on bearings when finished, there should be a very slight amount of clearance.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
kuziwk wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
kuziwk wrote:
well looks like im pulling each wheel off this weekend for peace of mind, i even bought a 1" socket to torque the castle nut to 50 lbs to seat the bearings. After which i will back off and tighten finger tight. It will be a good opportunity anyways to adjust the brakes...right now my truck is at the max on the brake controller and i cant lock the trailer tires.


Actually the 50 lb figure only needs to be done when installing new bearings. After that, just a firm tightening with large pliers is sufficient. Factory instructions are written to cover all installations.


So should I just tighten them finger tight? Any harm in torquing them down and backing off?


Read what DEXTER says and follow their procedures!
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

kuziwk
Explorer
Explorer
Lynnmor wrote:
kuziwk wrote:
well looks like im pulling each wheel off this weekend for peace of mind, i even bought a 1" socket to torque the castle nut to 50 lbs to seat the bearings. After which i will back off and tighten finger tight. It will be a good opportunity anyways to adjust the brakes...right now my truck is at the max on the brake controller and i cant lock the trailer tires.


Actually the 50 lb figure only needs to be done when installing new bearings. After that, just a firm tightening with large pliers is sufficient. Factory instructions are written to cover all installations.


So should I just tighten them finger tight? Any harm in torquing them down and backing off?