Thru bolting a motor cycle chock

[bluwtrman]

Hey all - has anyone removed the enclosure panels from the bottom of their TH in order to thru bolt their chock? Just trying to make sure I'm not creating unnecessary work or complication by doing so.

[MartyMoose]

Heck, I don't even pull up my carpeting in the garage anymore. I just put down my HF chock, ride it in and strap it down.
I did have a strap come loose once as I didn't think I had to really crank it down. Luckily the wheel chock did it's job and held it up. No damage.

Lesson learned... crank it down with the straps hard.

[LowRyter]

bluwtrman wrote:

LowRyter wrote:
I use two of those $39 HF chocks. I strap them down with rubber mats underneath. I can place them where ever I want depending on how many bikes I am carrying. And I have a clean floor when not carrying anything.

Do you have any pics of this setup? Are you saying the chocks are just sitting on the rubber mats?

I use two straps on each chock (front and rear) + 4 straps on each bike.

[joebedford]

bluwtrman wrote:
joebedford - I assume there's just some insulation laying on top of the caroplast? Also, did you put in backing plates or just fender washers?

Nothing but dust and wires lying on the coroplast which I didn't remove as I was able to pull down the back corner to get access. The floor itself is insulated.

[bluwtrman]

LowRyter wrote:
I use two of those $39 HF chocks. I strap them down with rubber mats underneath. I can place them where ever I want depending on how many bikes I am carrying. And I have a clean floor when not carrying anything.

Do you have any pics of this setup? Are you saying the chocks are just sitting on the rubber mats?

[LowRyter]

I use two of those $39 HF chocks. I strap them down with rubber mats underneath. I can place them where ever I want depending on how many bikes I am carrying. And I have a clean floor when not carrying anything.

[Y-Guy]

I didn't remove my corrugated plastic, but I did cut 3 sides so it could hinge open. No insulation in mine and unless they tell you there is some most consider the corrugated plastic to be the "insulation" When I was finished I used 2 zip ties and some very sticky black tape (like Gorilla tape) to hold it in place.

[mapguy]

Through bolting with backup plates or into frame members is the only way the existing floor will take the load -long term. Remember most TH's use some version of engineered sheet goods (OSB)or a luan plywood/foam sandwich for subfloors. These sub-floor systems get soft very easily....

[bluwtrman]

joebedford - I assume there's just some insulation laying on top of the caroplast? Also, did you put in backing plates or just fender washers?

[joebedford]

gbopp wrote:

joebedford wrote:
My $39.95 chock from HF works just fine for both mine and DW's Ultras.

But, did you use a 20% off coupon :@

Actually I've had them so long I'm pretty sure I paid the full price at the time: $29.99

[gbopp]

joebedford wrote:
My $39.95 chock from HF works just fine for both mine and DW's Ultras.

But, did you use a 20% off coupon :@

[fj12ryder]

I use an aluminum plate that has slots to go over the D-rings in the floor. The chock mounts on the plate and the motorcycle tie downs keep everything in place. And it takes only seconds to totally remove everything.

[joebedford]

I did. Two of the four bolts of the baseplate run through a steel cross-member. I only had to lower a corner of the coroplast to do it. Top part comes off easily when parked for a while.

Many people will tell you to spend $$$ to get a chock that doesn't need bolts. My $39.95 chock from HF works just fine for both mine and DW's Ultras.