I'm concerned with the potential damage to the slide out awnings from too much snow. I can't afford to build a structure over my 5th. Does anyone know of an inexpensive solution or have experience with this type of thing? I don't think the beach ball idea will work in the wintertime.
Im a newly single 57 year old woman with limited income. Living in my 5th in Michigan year round is going to be a new experience. My Jayco has the Polar Package, but I'm hearing that it makes little to no difference. I'm all skirted with T1-11 and 2" r-10 foam insulation. Heat tape on water pipes. So far from these forums I've learned that I should also wrap my (hard-not flex) sewer pipes, and I plan to install either the bubble wrap or the transparent plastic on the windows. I'll have a well pump heater underneath and possibly one in utility area.
With everything I've said, does anyone have any more advise for me? I'm really nervous about this. My 5th is beautiful and I don't wanna make the inside icky or ugly or anything. Lol. Sounds silly, but I like pretty stuff.
I'm also nicely equipped (please God, make it true) to keep out the mice/spiders... using peppermint essential oils EVERYWHERE.
Don't forget to put vent pillows (insulated pillows) in you vent openings. You lose a lot of heat thru them. They also make some for the skylight over the shower. For windows you can use the bubble wrap and we have day/night shades and valances. I used a tension rod slid up under the valance and hung insulated curtains cut to length and hemmed which helps with the cold. I did not slit them down the middle but if I wanted them open, just slid them to one side on the rod, and pushed the day/night shade open. Any extra layers on the floor will help you feel warmer also. We spend a lot of time at our dinette booth so have an extra rug on the floor on top of the carpet. If your feet are warm it will help the rest of you feel warmer too. Get a cheap memory foam pad and put on your bed under your sheet - one without the cool gel (Walmart) . They absorb your body heat and keep you warm and toasty at night.
I was in Coffeyville Kansas in the winter of 2013, Nov and Dec, there was snow and subfreezing temps for 2 weeks plus got down to 4 degrees at night. Prior to that freeze there was a small freeze for a couple of days where I had the the city water freeze up, even though I had a heated water hose, because just behind the city water fill was about 12 inches of unprotected and exposed water hose in the starter battery compartment. I also had the refrigerator stop working as it was to cold for it to function. This small freeze really helped me prepare for the longer and colder weather to come.
Here is how I made it where some did not including the campground shower house freezing up.
Heated water hose. A trouble light, with a real light bulb (60 watt) in the battery compartment for the exposed water line. Another light behind the refrigerator to keep it running. A small heater in the sewer compartment on low. Making sure that the sewer hose has no kinks to cause an ice dam. Running a small drip using the hot water side because there is unprotected water lines there to. Never turned the heat lower than 65 degrees, there was a lot of trips to the propane store. I also used a Mr Buddy heater but only when I was there or awake and I did open a vent in the roof to keep air flow going and moisture down. Electric blanket at night. Turned on the engine block heater and never turned it off this kept the Black tank from freezing as the tank is near the engine.
This what I did and your situation will be different and your skirting will help.
Also my awnings were destroyed by the weather and ice storm the weight of the snow and ice ripped them right off the motor home. The awnings do have springs and extra material and will sag but once the hit bottom where there is no more give the weight will pull on the fabric next to the motor home and pull it from its track. You will need to brace them so that the snow will not build up next the the wall of the RV.
Thank you everyone for your replies! I do have a propane service - installing on Monday. I'm happy about that. I've read stories about people having problems with awnings after a winter. So just for a bit of added insurance, so far I'm liking the idea of sliding an insulation panel between the slide and the awning. It def wouldn't hurt anything that I can think of and should even help to have the added insulation. Plus I still have two 4x8 sheets left over from the skirting! Win-win. I may even put a smaller version of the beach ball idea up there to save me from having to climb up and scrape snow off on a regular basis.
You guys are appreciated and this forum is da bomb!
garyemunson wrote: Snow shouldn't really hurt anything. Remember, the slideout awnings are on a spring-loaded roller and will just 'extend' a little more (and lay flat) on the slide top as the snow piles up on them. When the snow melts off the awning should wind back up and return to being slightly above the slide. The main reason for them is preventing debris from getting dragged into the seal area as the slide goes back in.
X2 Th rollers are spring loaded and have no latching mechanism, so snow will just unroll it a bit.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle. 2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed. 2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#
I had enough extra fabric on mine to cut off the old and have new. Leaving your slides in will cut down on your heating costs and if you have one that needs/must be out then letting the snow build up on it will actually help insulate.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose. Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years. Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45’...
Bill.Satellite wrote: I don't have them but I always thought that once the slides were fully extended, the awning was fully extended as well. If that's true then there would be no additional fabric to unroll.
Our slide topper has about another foot of fabric on the roller when the slide is fully extended. Unlike the main awning, none of the roller is exposed when open.
Dutch 2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System 2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate
I don't have them but I always thought that once the slides were fully extended, the awning was fully extended as well. If that's true then there would be no additional fabric to unroll.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK. Can't we all just get along?
Snow shouldn't really hurt anything. Remember, the slideout awnings are on a spring-loaded roller and will just 'extend' a little more (and lay flat) on the slide top as the snow piles up on them. When the snow melts off the awning should wind back up and return to being slightly above the slide. The main reason for them is preventing debris from getting dragged into the seal area as the slide goes back in.
Since it won't snow every day you might just want to pull in the slides when snow is expected and put them back out when the storm is over. It will also keep you a bit warmer during that period. Be sure you have plenty of propane as mentioned above!
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK. Can't we all just get along?
Go to Walmart or a dollar store and buy small beach type balls that will roll under the covers...2 or 3 balls depending on length of slide...that will keep the fabric from sagging or stretching due to weight of snow...usually a 4" or 5" ball will work
If you haven't already, contact a local propane supplier about a large tank that they will come to you and fill, it's usually cheaper than going to a hardware store or similar location and you will likely be using a lot.
