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1997 Class C Winnebago, 47,000 miles too old to buy?

Xavpil
Explorer
Explorer
I did my due diligence and read the FAQ and also did a search
I am looking at a 97 Winnebago Minnie Winnie with a ford engine with 47,000 miles on it.
It looks great cosmetically and drives good. But I know this is the tip of the iceberg and it will require a thorough inspection.
It is my first RV. Iโ€™d take it across country.
I know it depends on a lot of factors but is there a rule of thumb that says RVs shouldnโ€™t be older than....
Thx guys
47 REPLIES 47

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

I purchased a 1987 unit in 2000. I replaced all hoses and belts, but one hose was no longer available. By 2005 I was having difficulty getting parts for the engine. It was a Ford chassis.

I would suggest that 1997 is a bit too old for a Ford chassis, as the V-10 became the "standard" in 1999. I'd buy no older than 2004 due to the spitting out of spark plugs before that time frame.


wasn't the change in 1999 just for the Class A chassis? he is talking C here. and if the spark plugs were going to spit, I think they would have done that long ago. I drove my 1999 for 14 uneventful years.
bumpy

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Xavpil wrote:
gbopp wrote:
If you are not familiar with RV's hire a mobile RV Tech and a qualified mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection.


Thx for the answer.
Where / how do you find a RV tech?
I am in Los Angeles
Thx

Contact a few RV campgrounds in your area. Ask it they can recommend a Tech/Mechanic. They often have business cards and ads on their public board.
Ask any friends who have RV's if they know of a good tech.
Do an online search.
Try checking for a tech on RV Service Reviews.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I purchased a 1987 unit in 2000. I replaced all hoses and belts, but one hose was no longer available. By 2005 I was having difficulty getting parts for the engine. It was a Ford chassis.

I would suggest that 1997 is a bit too old for a Ford chassis, as the V-10 became the "standard" in 1999. I'd buy no older than 2004 due to the spitting out of spark plugs before that time frame.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Xavpil
Explorer
Explorer
gbopp wrote:
If you are not familiar with RV's hire a mobile RV Tech and a qualified mechanic to do a prepurchase inspection.


Thx for the answer.
Where / how do you find a RV tech?
I am in Los Angeles
Thx

Xavpil
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
My concern would be that 5 to 7 years down the road you may have trouble getting anything for it so it all depends on the cost, assuming other issues are no problem.
bumpy

I donโ€™t plan on keeping it that long actually
I am too young to retire and enjoy the open roads weeks at a time. I just want to go on my dream road trip cross country while I have the luxury of being able to work remotely.
Once the whole Covid thing stops, Iโ€™ll be a regular guy waiting a few more years to be able to enjoy weeks at a time discovering the world.

Xavpil
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all for the priceless info!
Can someone recommend an inspector in LA county, Riverside?
Or should I trust a local RV mechanic? Iโ€™m always cautious with hiring someone who could benefit from not giving me accurate info.

DaButcher
Explorer
Explorer
I would not hesitate to go cross country in my 20 year old Jayco (bought it just over a year ago with less than 14K, now has 21K). In 3 years I suspect it will still be just a as roadworthy as it is now. Your mileage may vary!
2021 Freelander 31MB Class C

NRA Life Member

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
My concern would be that 5 to 7 years down the road you may have trouble getting anything for it so it all depends on the cost, assuming other issues are no problem.
bumpy

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a 21 year old 5th wheel. The exterior and interior look better that 50% of 10 year old units. Aluminum siding (smooth) and fiberglass caps hold up better than today's philan exteriors. No leaks ever. Take a buddy with you to look it over. He'll see more than you, because he won't have that level of excitement you'll have. Hell, ask the owner if you can sleep in it for a night to really get the feel of the unit.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thatโ€™s a fair comment, DrewE. I guess if I couldnโ€™t go any other way...
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lwiddis wrote:
Twenty-three years old and cross country...I wouldnโ€™t.


If it's in good condition, I would. I may do just that thing next year, in fact; and I took my nearly 20 year old class C to Alaska and back to Vermont a few years ago.

The technology for the house part of an RV hasn't changed all that much in the past 20 years; the appliances and systems are very much similar on new units, with not many exceptions. Converters have improved some; and entertainment/TV systems are different now, and there may be the odd gizmo that's popular now but was not previously, but otherwise...not much has changed. The chassis I think would be pretty nearly the same as a modern chassis, the engine and transmission a generation or two older but still computer controlled and fuel injected and generally reliable. Things that go wrong with the chassis are the usual sorts of things that happen to older vehicles, and not too hard to check or fix: ball joints, brakes, hoses, belts, that sort of thing.

Of course, everyone has their own level of comfort with these sorts of adventures; but plenty of people make long-distance trips in not too new vehicles.

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
is there a rule of thumb that says RVs shouldnโ€™t be older than


As said, very good inspection then weigh to cost difference of repair over a newer unit. Personally I would prefer a newer 6 speed tranny over a 4 speed.

It also will depend on where it was stored. If it was in a dry climate that's a good thing. If it sat next to a boat ramp or was on an oceanfront lot of a beach club then I would pass on it.
You would probably also pass on it too when you attempted to move it and the wheels feel off. Regarding the chassis I think rust and corrosion will be the enemy to inspect.
Regarding the coach, it will be the caulking and how it was maintained over its life. Water intrusion will seeks the lowest level to settle and follow gravity using the framework as roadways. If you have water damage in the drivers side rear, the leak might have originated on the passenger front side. Floors and such should feel solid not spongy, check the floor at the entrance door. Rv doors are notorious leakers.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
sounds like a great barn find. this one should have a rv inspection. coat a little but you,ll learn more in his report than you could find. one thing,IF theres water stains ????? run. mines a 2007 and we load it and drive it to AZ all the times. this winne will need new belts hoses oil etc before you go 10 miles, tires will be your big chunk of money no cheap tires michelins for me. nothing kills a trip like a tire blow out.have fun and when something does break laugh it off/

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
If it is well cared for, good mechanical and rv systems condition and un-molested (i.e., not full of hack repairs), it should be a very serviceable unit. And a great value at that.
Again, the miles are super low and that is a bonus, but don't falsely believe that the chassis and drivetrain will be totally relaible as if it was 3 years old and driven 15k a year.
i would have no issue with it, but my view is that I can/will repair most anything save for rebuilding the engine or trans as it comes up.
Realize even "simple" repairs are expensive if you're paying someone or a tow bill.
Are you comfortable with major pre emptive maint/repairs before you embark, or potentially fixing cooling system or brakes or ..... For example? Or is it a tow truck to the nearest shop and a repair bill for you?

At a minimum, all fluids, hoses, belts, tune up, newer tires etc "should" be done to minimize the chance of the "little" stuff breaking down. Budget for that.
Not trying to be pessimistic but that's what you need to prepare for with an old rig. It's not a certainty, but you dunno until it happens.

The RV portion on the other hand is less of a concern, IMO. Most repairs are fairly basic. And aside from losing the fridge, for example, can be worked around with relative ease. (You can figure it out for a few days if say the water pump dies or heater don't work, unlike breaking a fan belt on the rig and being out of commission on the side of the road without the knowledge or parts to fix)

IMO, the nicest 23 year old class C out there is worth maybe $10k tops, budgeting for making it reliable.

I know this sounds negative, but it's how I'd view it having good knowledge of mechanics, and kind of a prepare for the worst and then you won't be disappointed and likely have a better experience.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Twenty-three years old and cross country...I wouldnโ€™t.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad