1998 Ford E450 Super Duty Triton V10- opinions?!

[millerrm37]

I am looking at purchasing a 1998 Coachman Leprechaun with a Ford E450 Super Duty Triton V10 and am looking for any feedback from anyone who has dealt with this type of engine. Just looking for your thoughts on performance, mileage, issues, etc. We will not really be towing anything with it. Thanks!

[Gene_in_NE]

rjstractor wrote:
I had one (a '98) for a number of years, and according to the manual it had "only" 265 hp/425 torque. Apparently it didn't realize that, since loaded to 17,000 combined it rolled up and over all the Cascade passes without a hiccup. Often it had to rev in 2nd gear, but that engine liked it just fine. I've heard stories of those motors spitting spark plugs, but I've yet to talk to a real live person who has experienced that problem with this engine. I had zero mechanical problems.

Here is a website that has lots to read - Consumer Affairs. Even though there are hundreds of Triton engines with problems, there are thousands that have not had any.

I have read theories on why the plug blows out. The majority agree that either the plug loosens up (because there were only 4 threads in the head) and vibration and heat cause it to partailly unscrew or the plugs were replaced and not properly torqued. Overtightening could also strip the 4 threads out of the head.

I believe I would take my calibrated torque wrench and check about every 5,000 miles that the plugs are correctly torqued.

Here is another to read - Mechanics Comments

[jimx200]

Clunking noise? Ahhhhh..transmission? Who knows..spend $100 and get it inspected by a good rv mechanic. Im always cautious when someone claims do it yourself service.

[5Mainecampers]

We have been very satisfied with our '98 Coachmen Lepracaun 3050. We purchased it in 2011 with 110K well maintained miles (100K service done); all service records from the one (original owner). We have driven it 2X's from Maine to Florida and back. We constantly average right at 8MPG (last month we were at 7.7 round trip to Florida, but that included running the generator all day long while driving (to run the coach A/C-- close to 97 degrees). We also came home thru the mountains on I77/I81: Sufficient power for the hills- did have to turn the dash a/c off couple times to keep the temp gauge from climbing (first time ever that the temp gauge ever moved). Rig drives very comfortable at 62 MPH---- not so much as you get to 65 and higher.
The '98 is on what they called E SuperDuty (same as what is now called E450.
The Coachmen Lapracaun appears to have been a well built with alot of features (probably a mid to upper mid level brand at the time).
I haven't yet towed the car with it yet-- I can see where it might lose its breath in the hills, but then again I am running more than 31 ft.
Best of luck!!

[ol__yeller]

Great prevention from blowing your spark plugs can be had by using Motorcraft plugs and torquing them to the correct torque. Also replacing them at 60,000 to 75,000 instead of at the factory recommended 100,000 mile interval greatly reduces the opportunity for the dissimilar metals to become one.

[pnichols]

garyhaupt wrote:
Because getting them re-tapped is costly.

I'll bet!!!

That's got to be ultra-difficult (labor $$$$$) to do in a Class C. I just had all 10 exhaust manifold bolts replaced on the passenger side.

I took a look at the job after bringing our Ford V10 Class C back home. I have no idea how they managed to get at some of the bolt locations to remove/replace them without removing the engine (which they didn't do). It cost plenty, too. :h and :E

[garyhaupt]

Having up close and personal experience with my currant V-10...there are 10 coils and you can be spending a fair chunk replacing those. Also, the sparks plugs are threaded onto four...FOUR threads, so years of cold/hot can loosen a plug and then you may have the joy of having the the plug shoot out and then the hole re-threaded. So..if I was to offer any suggestions..get a couple coils to have as spares, just in case. And have all the plugs replaced right after purchase and then do them say every 2 or 3 years. That way..you know they are tight. Because getting them re-tapped is costly.


Gary Haupt

[xxjanaleexx]

Vulcan Rider wrote:

xxjanaleexx wrote:
and I still have that little tire bump..

Is it safe to assume that the tire pressure is up to where it should be ?

And how many miles did you go on this latest "trip" ?

Heavy duty tires are stiff. If there is a flat spot, it can take some time to work it out. A little extra pressure for a while might help.....up to the max. on the sidewall.

»»»I am going to recheck the pressure and take it for a good ride this weekend..I only went about five miles and that wouldn't be enough! Just wasn't reasoning this out properly! Thanks!

[Vulcan_Rider]

xxjanaleexx wrote:
and I still have that little tire bump..

Is it safe to assume that the tire pressure is up to where it should be ?

And how many miles did you go on this latest "trip" ?

Heavy duty tires are stiff. If there is a flat spot, it can take some time to work it out. A little extra pressure for a while might help.....up to the max. on the sidewall.

[xxjanaleexx]

I will take this opportunity to ask you fellow '98 Coachmen owners about this. I have only had this unit 3 months and no traveling yet. When I got it,it was very cold outside and I felt a slight front tire "washboard" feel and thought it had a tire flat spot from cold storage and not being run since last Oct. Haven't been out with it on a hwy until last week (on a newly paved hwy)and I still have that little tire bump..the tires are Kelly's M/S,year 2011, with only 2500 miles on them. Wondering if something is wrong with them such as a broken belt or is it the M/S tread..I had it all checked over when I bought it-mechanic said it's in great condition..only 41,000 mi. on her...Any ideas would be appreciated! Janalee

[DrewE]

Lots of things can cause clunks. Suspension bushings or other similar items are a definite possibility, and repair cost would be rather variable depending on what it is that needs replacement or adjustment. It could also be something sticking from non-use and work itself free with a bit of driving.

Frequently when I get clunks, it's because I failed to close a door or drawer or left something unsecured in a cabinet or such like.

[mlts22]

I have had a Ford 5.4 engine spit a plug... at 110,000 miles. The engine still ran, but it ran rough. Very reliable engine type... may not be as fuel efficient as an EcoBoost, but they have stood well the test of time.

[millerrm37]

He was referring to the stabilizer bar in the rear of the unit (not stabilizer jacks). When under the RV, there is a new one in place which he noted was put on last year and upgraded to a heavier duty one so not sure why it would be clunking on each turn?! Thanks for the info on the filter and suggestions on the other possible reasons for the clunking noise (any idea on cost for repairs?). You all are a great source!

[j-d]

Fuel Filter is a $10-15 part, you need a tool that's a few dollars to disconnect it from the fuel lines roughly under the driver seat down on the inside of the chassis rail.

By "stabilzer" do they mean a scissors jack-like thing to keep the coach from swaying parked on a campsite? Or a "stabilizer bar" "sway bar" or "anti-sway bar/"E-SuperDuty/E450 has Front and Rear Sway Bars. A bushing could have failed, or a bracket come loose. Same with a shock absorber, even a rear spring bushing or shackle.

[millerrm37]

There are just over 58k miles on the unit. The current owner stated that he did all of his own maintenance so no records of any work performed. He has had it about 5 yrs and he has not used since last year (he got a newer one). When we drove it, it was somewhat hesitant at times and they owner noted that the fuel filter likely needed to be changed (Any idea on the cost of that?). Also, when we would turn, there would be a loud "clunk" in the rear of the unit which is stated was just the stabilizers (Any thoughts on this?). All of your info is certainly appreciated!