2001 E-450 front calipers siezed-what now?

[Holiday27]

First trip of the season and I noticed a rolling resistance and brake burning smell. Then I noticed the temp on the tire sensor climbing. Got up to 178! At that point they unsiezed and the temp dropped to normal, drag went away. I had planned to change out the brake fluid before we left but totally forgot, obvious bad move on my part.

Question is should I replace everything or just the fluid and front brake lines?

[j-d]

^^^ Correct. Hose develops a "check valve." Worse with Disk Brakes than Drum Brakes. Drum has return springs to help get the fluid back out of the wheel cylinders. Disk only releases the pressure of the caliper pistons. I've seen the relief port in a disk brake master cylinder "heal up" with corrosion, there's so little flow back to the master. Personally, I don't worry much about the rear hoses if the vehicle is four-wheel disk brakes. All those do is form a flexible connection so the caliper can release and the pads can wear. They don't rise/fall with the suspension like the fronts do, and of course they don't steer. I'll replace the rear hose between chassis and axle, but usually not the two between each end of the hard lines on the axle and the calipers.

[Roman_Duck]

Thought we had a seized caliper, but it turned out the rubber hose was bad. Evidently the hose's are double wall. after a period of time the inner hose delams from outer hose.The inner hose collapse's and traps fluid between the collapse and the caliper. It normally will allow the fluid to bleed off gradually, releasing the caliper.
An easy way to test the hose; apply pressure to pedal engaging the caliper to the rotor. once it's stuck take the correct size wrench and slightly loosen the hose from the caliper: If it's the hose the caliper will release, and a small amount of fluid will squirt out at the fitting.

[j-d]

Oh, Lordy! DO IT!!!

I got my Kit from Quigley, so what QuadVan provides may be slightly different. I got ABS Sensors I did not need (late model uses a different plug), and had to buy my own Radius Arm Nuts/Bolts (from Ford) and Brake Hoses (Dorman brand from Amazon). Quigley sent me front shocks but I needed to get the upper mounting hardware. Lower was on the shocks.

Remember, you get "loaded" calipers. The pads will be included. New, bigger rotors of course, then the both whole axles and the updated radius arms. Be sure the Splash Pans are on the Axle Spindles.

Complete kit weighed 400-pounds, but the axles themselves are relatively light. Heaviest parts are Rotors. I did the whole project in my driveway without help.

[Holiday27]

Yeah, I work about 10 min away from them. I'm going to give them a call in a couple hours.

[j-d]

For the Front Axle Kit Call John at 503.224.3629 or Email Info@QuadVan.com

[Holiday27]

Found some other issues in our shakedown trip. Pass taillight and turn not working. Not fun when trying to get over in traffic. Also noticed air ride control box waded up around the leaf springs. Could be why air ride does not work?

[Holiday27]

I remember you talking about that in another post last year and it sounded like a great idea. Thanks for reminding me. I'll look into it.

[j-d]

Good point, Bryan! I didn't keep track of where OP is located.

OP, Bryan and I have both done that axle project and it's straightforward. Either of us can help with details. Your biggest concern might be R&R front springs. No worries! They simply drop out, no need for compression tools, heroics, etc.

[carringb]

Since your are local, I strongly recommend just going to QuadVan for a full axle replacement. Your rig is old enough the ball joints are probably getting a little rusty, and I'm sure your bushings are getting tired too. A new front axle will replace all those parts, AND give you much bigger brakes, and a better radius arm design.

If you a are a DIYer, you can pick up the whole axle for not much much more than new calipers and rotors!

[j-d]

The rear hardware kit looks like this:

Each of the long "Keys" is two pieces of stainless steel with a space-age plastic bonded between. Those pieces have retaining nubbins on both sides/both ends. The trick to getting them out is that the nubbins have to be squeezed in to clear the caliper bracket. Then driven through the bracket till they come out. It isn't apparent right away, but they have right/wrong ways to go back. For re-assembly, it helps to squeeze the key a little. I used a little 4" ViseGrip and the squeeze made installation much easier.

All the sliding brake hardware should be lubed with "ceramic" lube. The parts stores have small envelopes of it right at the registers. Or buy it in bulk.



Rears are just a little more tedious than fronts, but there are no big bracket bolts.

Cloud Driver has a great thread about rear brakes.

[Home_Skillet]

I've had a ton of issues with the caliper pistons binding up.
I replaced all the calipers and switched to slotted rotors. No issues at all now.

[Holiday27]

j-d wrote:
I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better.

I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...

I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.

EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.

Maybe I should pay to have the backs done? I have the tools but some things are worth paying for.

[Holiday27]

Thanks for the reply's. That's kind of what I figured. I was just hoping to get off a little cheaper. Better safe than sorry, no price on that. I'm headed out to the parts store.
Cheers!

[j-d]

I had a front caliper seize up just after leaving the ranger station check-in after a 50-mile highway run. Go figure. I went and got Hoses, Pads and Calipers for both sides. Changed the stuck side on the campsite (lucked out on that one) and the other side when I got home. After another couple runs, I could see the new pads weren't seating on the uncut rotors. Removed rotors, had them re-surfaced, packed bearings and installed new seals. Much better.

I was NOT able to remove the Rotors before getting home to bigger tools than I had with me on the trip! The brackets keep them from coming off and are held with large metric bolts with 21mm (or 13/16") heads. Torque spec is 160-pounds and ours also had rust. As an aside, I believe some shops "re-pack wheel bearings" by doing only the outer ones...

I'd change both calipers, all four pads, and both hoses. After a few miles, look and see if the overnight rust is being cleaned off both sides of both rotors. If not, have them re-surfaced. Unless they're discolored (blue) and/or checkered (surface cracked) then, replace.

EDIT: Seeing the other replies, everybody's diagnosis is the same. Wanted to add, previous owners replaced rear calipers and I just had to do it again. Brake wasn't smokin' but had that burnt-electrical, slipping-clutch smell. REAR calipers aren't as easy to change as the fronts, and I don't mean just getting jacked up and dual wheels off. Up through 2007, Ford used key-type retaining hardware and the keys are a pain to drive out, worse to put back. 2008 and later uses slide bolts like the front.

[enblethen]

Replace calipers, disc pads, fluid and have the rotors turned.
Make sure calipers have metal pistons.