2006 RT 210 Macerator Hose Replacement

[booboo98498]

Has anyone replaced the macerator hose on a 2006 RT 210? The current one is white and very stiff and has a gigantic valve on the end. I am sure it is original. Would like to replace it with a more flexible hose. Looking at Sani-Con hose and nozzle on Amazon. Any input would be appreciated.

[PSW]

booboo98498, I also had the experience of a super leak during a dump and had a wet pants leg to prove it. Duct tape and electrical tape don't seem to do the repair job, but carrying a small roll of self fusing plumbing tape is a good idea and it will do the job. You can buy it for five or six bucks at HD/Lowes.

paul

[booboo98498]

Lwiddis, 2006 RT 210 came with an installed macerator pump and a very stiff white hose. If it was my choice, I would go gravity dump without a question. Gravity has never failed mankind, as far as I know. Thank you.

[booboo98498]

PSW, thank you for the reply and very detailed instructions. We had a macerator hose spring a leak on a previous RV. It was just a pinhole leak but, wow, it was like a fountain when running the pump. Duct tape was no answer. The hose seemed quite fragile, to say the least.

[PSW]

Yep, I have replaced mine on my 2007 RT 210P on a 2006 chassis.

First of all, the same hose you see that is coiled up in the storage box also runs under the chassis over to the macerator on the right side of the RT. SO, any road debris, rain, snow, anything......flies up and hits the hose and it is susceptible to damage/leaks and would be the dickens to repair on a trip.

I went to Tractor Supply and bought some BFG 125 psi agricultural spray hose used (I assume) on big farm equipment. It is thick reinforced hose you buy by the foot and as I recall costs about a buck a foot. This is serious hose. I ran that from the macerator over to the storage box outlet and installed a coupling. That allows me to replace the exposed end of the hose that you use when you dump without worrying again about that portion under the carriage.

From the coupling forward I cheapoed out and used a landscape pond hose from Lowes/Home Depot. They come in one inch and three-quarter inch diameters and are twenty feet long. I only used about ten feet and saved the rest for later use. Now, this stuff is not nearly as flexible as a SaniCon hose you mentioned. But it is less than twenty bucks.

At the business end of the hose, I put a pvc valve, a reducer connection that got me down to a standard garden hose thread. All those connections are right in the plumbing area at Lowes/HD. I carry a little 15 foot "remnant hose" which is sold by the same two places which is just a short garden hose. If I need more than my 10 feet of pond hose, I just attach the 15 footer and then I have 25 feet. Now, 95% of the time, the pond hose is adequate to dump.

I coil the remnant hose and secure it to the inside of the spare tire wheel using twist ties. It rides safely there and is not viewable when the continental kit spare is in the upright position.

The pond hose is cheap and flexible enough for me but it is certainly no where near the flexibility of the SaniCon hose, but costs a fraction of that hose. AND, since all you have to do to replace it is just disconnect and put on a new one you don't have to ever again get under the chassis to worry about the hose from the pump to the storage area. Hope all this is clear(?) and maybe gives you an idea or two.

If I was going to use the SaniCom hose, I would still put the ag hose from the pump to a connection at the storage box because that is a job to be done only once IMO 🙂

Paul

[Lwiddis]

What is your need for a macerator?