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210 series HWH jacks not extending

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
The problem started 3 days ago when only the front jacks would extend and only the left side joy stick would work. Prior to that they all worked fine. I looked at the manual and removed the cover plate and cleaned some debris out, reassembled and now none of the jacks extend. The power light is on the panel but the pump does not come on. Found a service manual from a post on the forum and it says to check voltage on the pump relay terminal #3 for 12 v which I do not have (points to blue wire or light board). Following page says that if some jacks work and others don't clean debris from joy stick and switch plate. Have any other members gone through this and could shed some light on this problem?
31 REPLIES 31

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Did you read through part 13 about cleaning the contatc switch area in the second major paragraph?
Is yours a 200 or 210?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
When I turn my switch to the on position the green light come on. If I release the E brake the red light comes on. So the switch is working. I have the 210 series.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Is yours a 200 or a 210?
I have a 200 series. The 200 has the remote display. The 210 has the jack display on the control panel.
Have you checked the switch for continuity?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yes Bud this is what I am using. My problem is that I still don't have 12 v to terminal #3. No 1 has 12 v. The manual says if no 12 v at # 3 the problem is with the 6820 blue wire at 3 which goes to the light panel or the light panel itself. The light panel looks pretty simple with no burn tracks in it. I thought by re soldering those two wires would fix it but it didn't.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
azpete wrote:
take the cover off again, and clean the ring at the bottom of the bell shaped piece on the joy stick. the ring gets corroded from electrical arcing. use a pencil eraser to do the job. if you can short the two wires together, the problem is either in that ring contact,or in the spring contacts on the plate. make sure those three springs are standing at 90 degrees from the plate, and clean the contact points on the circuit board that they make contact. use the service manual to check out the circuit board if none of this works.
note** ther joystick center is not designed to be removed easily. its pressed on, but its a vary snug fit.
I cleaned the joystick yesterday with steel wool. I first cleaned it with a Q tip and contact cleaner and noticed a lot off black stuff coming off then went to the steel wool. If you are talking about the black and white wires that are soldered to the switch plate contact ring I shorted those out but still the pump would not come on. Also noticed that the solder joints were loose(probably due to my cleaning) re soldered to the plate but still nothing.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
The small wires go to the individual jacks.
Do you have this manual? It is a lot of help. I printed it and have it in my rig. Page MP65.9435 & MP65.306C has information on joystick wiring depending on whether you have kick down or straight acting jacks.
Page MP85.1520 upper has wiring for pump.
Service Manual

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
enblethen wrote:
Under the control valve(mine is in wheel well) is a two wire connector.
Make sure it is connected to gether tight. Then try.
If no go, separate the connector using a medium to heavy wire(#12-10) jumper the two pins on the pump side. This will show whether problem is in control valve switch or in the solenoid at the pump motor.
Verify battery voltage to the large terminal on the battery side of the solenoid.
The small blue wire should have power on it at the small terminal on the solenoid. The wire to and from the control switches ground. You could use a jumper between the small terminal opposite of the small blue wire terminal and ground. With control panel switch on it should energize the solenoid.
I just checked mine it is in the wheel well also but it has 2 wiring harnesses going up to the control box. The big one has multiple wires like 10 or 12 the smaller one has 4 wires not 2.

azpete
Explorer
Explorer
sorry. double post

azpete
Explorer
Explorer
take the cover off again, and clean the ring at the bottom of the bell shaped piece on the joy stick. the ring gets corroded from electrical arcing. use a pencil eraser to do the job. if you can short the two wires together, the problem is either in that ring contact,or in the spring contacts on the plate. make sure those three springs are standing at 90 degrees from the plate, and clean the contact points on the circuit board that they make contact. use the service manual to check out the circuit board if none of this works.
note** ther joystick center is not designed to be removed easily. its pressed on, but its a vary snug fit.

topflite51
Explorer
Explorer
Sometimes on my rig even though the emer brake is on I have to release the brake and reapply it for the HWH system to work. Just a thought......
:CDavid
Just rolling along enjoying life
w/F53 Southwind towing a 87 Samurai or 01 Grand Vitara looking to fish
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Any errors are a result of CRS.:s

joeprinter
Explorer
Explorer
Just a thought, mine NEVER extend when I get to park, Unless I re-raise the jacks, its like they vibrate down on the sensor from driving (very minute movement), and then they work fine.
"2012 Forest River 360 DS"
"Ford V-10"
"2013 Toyota Corolla on Tow Dolly"

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Mine has a bracket attached under the floor in the wheel well.
I would do testing first. The center lever just makes metallic contact to each of the function points. I think you are going to find something wrong by the solenoid.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I take it when the two wires are jumped together the pump motor should come on which would mean something in the box like the switch plate. Do you know how the middle joystick comes off? I tried to remove it to clean the switch plate but could not removed it.

wallynm
Explorer
Explorer
I have found even when a fuse looks good I will replace it just to make sure. sometimes it works

Gjac wrote:
Bud,I checked that fuse and also clean the ground that it goes to on the frame. In addition cleaned all the terminals on the relay. Still no pump motor when center joystick is pushed fwd or backwards.
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enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Under the control valve(mine is in wheel well) is a two wire connector.
Make sure it is connected to gether tight. Then try.
If no go, separate the connector using a medium to heavy wire(#12-10) jumper the two pins on the pump side. This will show whether problem is in control valve switch or in the solenoid at the pump motor.
Verify battery voltage to the large terminal on the battery side of the solenoid.
The small blue wire should have power on it at the small terminal on the solenoid. The wire to and from the control switches ground. You could use a jumper between the small terminal opposite of the small blue wire terminal and ground. With control panel switch on it should energize the solenoid.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker