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aqua hot

metlmn
Explorer
Explorer
2013 Diplomat. I have heat on zone 4, but only blows cold air in the other 3 zones. Any ideas why?
10 REPLIES 10

Mike_and_Trish
Explorer
Explorer
If you look at your owner's manual (or better yet, download the service manual for your model), they give you all the detail you need.
Mike and Trish
2014 Thor Tuscany 40RX
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee on Blue Ox Aventa LX
Yorkiepoos - Janis and Jimi

paulcardoza
Explorer
Explorer
You need to remove the shrouding from your unit to get to them.
Paul & Sandra
Plymouth, MA
2014 Heartland Cyclone 4100 King

Blaster_Man
Explorer
Explorer
Okay, I'll ask a dumb question...where are the heat/check valves?
2014 American Eagle

JCMSr
Explorer
Explorer
x4 on giving the valves a good whack. Have had this happen twice over the past three years and one tap solved the problem. Will take longer to take the cover off than anything else.
2011 Itasca Ellipse 42QD
2011 Chevy Tahoe
D-celerator unified tow brake
Blue Ox Aventa II tow bar

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Twomed wrote:
New Year's Resolution for all AQH owners...run at least once a month even just for a tank of hot water. They need the exercise...valves, pumps, burner, etc... ๐Ÿ™‚ ๐Ÿ™‚


Running to get a tank of hot water does NOT excercise the HEAT check valves. You MUST run all the heat Zones for a few minutes to get the check valves to function. Running also keeps the fuel nozzle from gumming up. Doug

Twomed
Explorer
Explorer
New Year's Resolution for all AQH owners...run at least once a month even just for a tank of hot water. They need the exercise...valves, pumps, burner, etc... ๐Ÿ™‚ ๐Ÿ™‚
Happy Trails ๐Ÿ™‚
06 Monaco Dynasty
07 Hummer H3
FMCA 279843

zmotorsports
Explorer
Explorer
I will third that. Don't "beat on them" just a smack with the handle of a large screwdriver and depending on the ambient noise, sometimes you can actually him the "click" and then the flow of glycol. They will be coming right up out of the top of the enclosed unit and are merely a brass union looking part with the PEX line coming out of the top. They may have a small cap on one side. You can either feel the lines or use an infrared gun to see the temperature differential on either side of the check valve. Or just give all of them a tap and call it a day.:)

They will stick if not used for an extended period of time. Also, whenever you flush your glycol system try to keep the mixture as close to 50/50 (boiler glycol/distilled water) as possible. Too much glycol can magnify the sticking issue.

Mike.
2003 Monaco Dynasty/ 26' Haulmark Edge trailer
2011 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon

Roadpilot
Explorer
Explorer
I'll second rapping the check valves. I've had more than one stick. You can feels the pipe on both sides of the check valve to verify which one is stuck.
Tiffin Wayfarer 25TW
15 Mini Cooper S

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Usually the check valves for those cold zones are stuck shut. The easiest way is to whack them gently with a hammer to free them up. very common problem on Hydronic systems that are not cycled regularly on heat. You should cycle the heat zones at least once a month for a few minutes to prevent this from happening. Doug

Flyawes
Explorer
Explorer
Try giving the check valves a whack. sometimes they stick closed and stop the flow of heated fluid from circulating. You shoould see them just after the circulating pumps.
Marc & Linda
Buddy & Phoebe (pomeranians)
2002 Holiday Rambler Navigator 45' DCDS
2012 GMC Sierra
2002 Harley-Davidson Road King