โOct-19-2020 04:28 PM
โOct-20-2020 11:36 AM
rk911 wrote:Old-Biscuit wrote:rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.
Couldn't have been the thermal fuse
If bad then NO DC goes back to circuit board so neither gas or electric would work
Since 2004 Atwood Gas/Electric have used common DC and circuit board controls
See wiring diagram.....thermal stops DC for both
Messing around with it...replacing it you might have made ECO Connection better
When on Electric a millivolt current goes from circuit board to ECO/Gas Valve and to ground
This allows the ECO to be part of the safety control loop
No millivolt thru ECO...no Electric operation
not true. our thermal cutoff was blown..no continuity. elec would not work but gas side did. replaced TC and restored elec side.
โOct-20-2020 08:49 AM
Old-Biscuit wrote:rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.
Couldn't have been the thermal fuse
If bad then NO DC goes back to circuit board so neither gas or electric would work
Since 2004 Atwood Gas/Electric have used common DC and circuit board controls
See wiring diagram.....thermal stops DC for both
Messing around with it...replacing it you might have made ECO Connection better
When on Electric a millivolt current goes from circuit board to ECO/Gas Valve and to ground
This allows the ECO to be part of the safety control loop
No millivolt thru ECO...no Electric operation
โOct-20-2020 08:12 AM
btilfan wrote:
Thank you everyone. I have 11.3V at the yellow and 13V at the white. It appears to be working now. I tightened all connections. Must have been a loose one somewhere. the light in the switch is still not working but I can live with that.
โOct-20-2020 08:00 AM
โOct-20-2020 07:51 AM
btilfan wrote:
thanks, I will try some of the suggestions but it may take some time as I have to put element back in and refill the tank.
โOct-20-2020 05:49 AM
โOct-19-2020 08:26 PM
rk911 wrote:
did you check the thermal cutoff (brown wire) for continuity? it acts like a fuse. when the electric side went out on our atwood 2-yrs ago (gas side comtinued to,work) i had advice to check it and sure enough it had blown. got a new one from a parts house and was back in biz. ez to check with a volt/ohm meter.
โOct-19-2020 08:17 PM
dougrainer wrote:
AT the Board is a YELLOW wire. When the 120 electric switch is ON, That YELLOW wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE wire should have 12 volts. The WHITE comes from the 120 inside switch. Post what the results are. Your RV is a 2007? If the white and yellow are 12 volts, odds are the 120 relay is bad or a wire came off. That relay is NEXT to the 120 element at the back of the Water Heater. You should have seen it when you tested the 120 element. Hard to miss. Doug
โOct-19-2020 06:06 PM
โOct-19-2020 04:39 PM
โOct-19-2020 04:29 PM