Atwood WH Carbon Monoxide fix

[craz_z]

Hi Everyone.

This is my first post. Long time learner and reader of the forum.

Bought my first C this year on RV trader. Been learning alot from this forum and have been busy remodeling my 2004 4 winds Majestic class C.

I wanted to use this forum to maybe get this posted to the google search function as I was completely lost when I searched for the problem that has been haunting me for quite some time.

So I have a G6A-8E Waterheater DSI switch activated Atwood water heater.
I adjusted the air tube, cleaned the burner assembly and flushed the unit.

At first I could smell burnt propane inside the coach, but thought nothing of it then the CO alarm was going off within 10-12 minutes. I then bought a LCD monitor, home CO monitor as I thought maybe the MH monitor was bad. Sure enough I'm immediately at 30ppm and top out at 200ppm before I have to open the door as the smell is quite pungent.

I've dove straight in to this motorhome as its systems on board are not complicated at all and I'm super mechanical and won't give up until I feel the fix is perfect.

Here's what I found and Anyone into the cheap fix please please do it right as you are playing with your life an in this case someone else's life.

So the atwoods are prone to leaks or breakage from freeze etc. The replacement tanks are around 199$ plus seals 20$. A new unit I payed for on ebay 350$ So a new one to me is far cheaper than what I found for cheap fixes.

the other alternative that is advertised on the blogs out there is to pull out the WH and weld the bad leaky spot. If in back no problem if in front you must remove the 4 seals to access.

In my case.

My WH was spot welded just behind the main assembly. The tech or idiot or moron that put this together basically cut the sheet metal around each port for example the burner inlet, exhaust, blow off valve, and drain port.

They did not replace the seals and half way put this thing together and stuffed it back in the rv. So when the WH is turned on the gas can go right back in the rv. If you drain the WH water runs mostly to the ground and half goes back into the rv.

I was appalled at such a terrible fix and had no clue until I got my new heater and installed it.

NO more CO and a perfectly operating water heater.

I just wanted anyone that didn't or doesn't know that each orifice you can see or can't from the outside MUST BE SEALED PROPERLY. Or you can seriously injure yourself or kill someone Not to mention the potential for fire.

I've read about how difficult the seals are to install and that a DIY might not want to take on the task as its a GLASS FIT or so tight you'll wreck it and opt not to put the seals back in.

Sorry if my first post sounds like a Rant but safety should never be compromised with cheap fixes or shortcuts do it right or buy new and have a pro put it in for you.

[Old-Biscuit]

Sounds like previous owner didn't properly winterize water heater tank and then didn't know how/or care to properly fix/replace tank.

Installing new 'U' tube rings is not difficult or is properly sealing unit.

Glad you got it done right.
CO is the 'silent killer'