Breakdown Information

[Badeye]

Moderators Note: This thread is intending to report a problem and its resolution. If you are seeking help or information to help you resolve a problem you would best be served by initiating a thread on the class A forum proper

After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.

What do you think?

[2ND_HME]

RV particulars: Country Coach 40' Intrigue
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Gillig, Cummins 300, Allison 6
Miles:39000
Year:1995
Break Down Description: Engine running, guages fine, no power
Symptoms: very little response from gas pedal; RPM response normal
Effect: Slowed to crawl up hill, no power response, confusion
Cause: snapped threads on air inlet line to turbo
Outcome:$1.49 part replaced at Cummins, Columbia, SC. All fine now!

[2ND_HME]

Yes, it's Good Sam ERS. The total cost, including the tow, was $1079 but the repair was only (!)$470. The rest was the tow, which Good Sam paid.

[Puddin12]

Is that Good Sam Emergecy Road Service? How was you rcost of the $1000 only $470?

[2ND_HME]

Oh, and I forgot to say that the tow bill for the roughly two miles we went was $500 (!) all paid by GS ERS!:B My cost of the $1000 total repair was $470.

Love GS ERS!!

[2ND_HME]

This is the scariest (and most helpful) thread on any RV website I visit!

I've always felt it very important to be self-sufficient on the road to be able to fix any problem I might encounter. I've studied every manual that came with the coach, nearly memorized the electrical schematic, and I stuff one of my basements with every tool, connector, wire, lamp, plug, glue, grease, and "magic helper" I can find. Usually two of everything. I carry oil, filters, specialty wrenches, and unusual items that I've read about. Still we pay GS ERS each and every year as a backup.

We love our coach and the adventures and, fortunately, we've been relatively void of serious problems. Last year was the worst.

On a trip to Bloomington, IN we were on the outerbelt south of Indy. It was a bright, sunny day. As a car passed on my left I noticed she had her wipers on. After making a snide comment about the stupid driver I noticed the next car to pass had his wipers on as well. I immediately knew something was up and scanned my gauges. My temp was starting to climb and, at about that same instant I noticed the steering was getting really stiff. I was two lanes from the berm but managed to drift off without incident. It was a hot day and I spotted an overpass up ahead so, in my wisdom, I allowed the coach to coast under bridge to keep us out of the sun (mistake number one). My wife had that "What's going on?" look and didn't know if I was stopping to pee or if there was a problem. I said "We have a problem. I'll be right back" and headed for the door. When I got back to the truck in flat-tow I saw that it was covered in oily goo. I went around to the road side - about 2 feet from the white line with traffic wizzing past at full speed - and laid down to look under the coach. Red fluid all over the road and the underside. Hydaulic. Ouch. Can't do this myself.

Broke the news to my wife and we called GS ERS (GREAT service!). They said it would be about 60 minutes before the repair truck would arrive. In that time I unhooked the toad, cleaned off a spot on the windshield, and stuck my wife and kids in to get them off the busy highway. They headed to Bloomington to meet our appointment there. Once they were gone and safe I pulled out the manuals to re-read how to tow such a beast, just in case some grease-monkey showed up who'd never towed before.

The big diesel tow came right on time and as soon as he greeted me I promptly launched into a speech about what the owners manual said to do to tow (mistake number two). He eyed me as I spoke and when I was done he said "I do this for a living. I'll tell you what, if there's a problem when I'm done THEN you can tell me how to do my job." Ouch, and boy did I deserve that. I apologized as best I could and he did his masterful job. Firstly, once he got the hook under the front axle, he pulled me forward out from under the bridge so he could climb under the coach without being run over (another lesson for me!). He had to drop the driveshaft but in about 1/2 hour I was sitting in his cab with our dog in my lap as we chugged down the highway. To my complete surprise he took the first exit about a mile away, made two quick turns and dropped us into the able hands of PFM Truck Care Center.

PFM was great! Wonderful people who assured me that they'd get me back on the road in just a few hours. I called my wife who was already at Bloomington but she decided to drive back up to Indy to meet me in case I was stuck for the night.

The primary hydraulic hose that controls power steering and the radiator cooling fans had blown and they had to make a new one, which was the easy part. Getting the old fittings to break loose was much tougher and took the better part of two hours. The repair guy was able, quick, very nice and enjoyed talking about what he was doing (while I reminded myself about my lecture to the tow truck driver!). When he saw my interest he made a point of saying I should NEVER try a hydraulic repair myself because the pressures are so high. About $1000 and 5 hours later we were on our way and made the campground south of Bloomington just before dark.

I've learned how to fix most things on the coach, from the cruise, to the steps, to the fridge and hot water tank, fuel, oil, filters, electrical, etc. But what I learned most on that trip was to be a better judge of what I say, and to know when I'm in over my head.

[Puddin12]

I'm so sorry to hear of all your problems. We have a 1992 Winnebago Class C, and had to put a new transmission in four years ago (but I know I did a number on it pulling my horses through the mountains, so don't count that). We had to put a fuel pump in the generator, a cooling coil in the refrigerator about 8 years ago, and have had the furnace worked on twice, and it still doesn't work, but other than these things, it has been a great RV. Considering its age, I think we have been lucky. We, too, do preventive maintenance. Good luck.

[Planocat]

Just picked up motorhome from local generator repair place. Another generator breakdown. Ever tried to find service for a generator while on the road? Good luck!

This year while on vacation, after day 1 the Generac Generator (3 years ago it was the generator fuel pump that went out) would run but wasn't putting out any electricity to the coach. Turns out the drive belt from the generator motor to whatever it is that makes the electricity had broken. The kind of repair you hate as the belt was $23.80 but the generator had to be removed to change it. 6 hours labor total so the bill was over $500 to replace a $23 belt! Ouch.

Also on day 2, the water pump quits working. Switches won't activate the pump. RV repair place in Minnesota manages to spend 5 hours discovering he couldn't figure out what was wrong. Runs jury rigged wiring under the bed to the pump and installs a switch on the bed frame. In spite of the exposed wires, at least we now have water.

Last year it was a chasis problem - '97 460 Ford just quit running while going down the interstate. Towed to Iowa small town repair facility who diagnosed the problem as a fuel pump. Had what I thought was plenty of fuel pressure, but not according to the mechanic. Being Saturday, no pump to be had. Sat in parking lot of repair facility until pump arrived on Monday. Didn't send adaptor needed for fuel pump retrofit. So, that arrives on Tuesday. Puts everything back together and unit still won't run - just cranks and cranks. Then figures out it is a bad coil. Replaced the coil and it starts right up. Most likely the problem all along.

Mechanic managed to turn what should have been a 2 hour / $200 repair into 4 vacation days and $1,000 plus! Oh yes, and all the cranking of the motor with a bad coil filled the cylinders with gas that drained into the crankcase thinning out the oil and triggering a check engine light when we did finally get on the way. Returned for diagnosis and he said I needed the oil and filter changed which he did for $65 (the Ford dealer had just done it for $29)!

Some vacation. Ah, the joys of motorhoming and being at someone's mercy when you break down on the road a thousand miles from home. Wife informed me today she has taken her last vacation in this motorhome. She says: "Sell it if you want to celebrate a 42nd anniversary with me and next year we are renting a cabin!"

4 major breakdowns on the last 6 vacations has put her at the end of her rope. Told her I'd put it up for sale as soon as I had the electric steps and hydraulic jacks that also quit working this trip repaired - though it may take a while before I can accumulate the money to have it done! You'd never know I am a "preventative maintenance" kind of guy would you?

Planocat

[kiloo9]

If your battery positive post has the additional fuse link connection that feeds power to the main fuse panel, it could come lose with vibration and you would loose all power just like if you did not have a battery, it would make connection again and everything would work again until it happens again. this loose connection would create heat which in turn corrosion eventually losing the connection. Ensure all battery connections are thigh and secure. You could apply a tide wrap on the positive cable and the fuse link wire thus preventing vibration. All this happen to me on a trip out of Houston TX. Hope it helps.

[Boblou]

I had not heard of this one before. A friend was traveling in a mountainous area and when he got into town his brakes gave way. Pedal went to the floor. RV specialist drained the brake fluid and put new fluid in system and everthing worked fine. RV spccialist said when the brakes got hot from riding them down hill, your4 brake fluid boils away. Have since reseach and called local RV repairs and they said this was true. So in order to prevent and occurance on my RV i took a turkery baster, sucked out a lot of brake fluid and put new in. I hope i took out any brake fluid contaminated with water vapor.

[gettinright]

Reference to breakdown and repair in Albeq. NM. I had a problem there with a 330HP Cat. Wagner CAT fixed it finally after it had been repaired twice by Freightliner. If you have a CAT they are a really good shop.

I sold the Cat and now have a 400 Cummins. No problems with it.

[howdy35]

Two things. 1st Loss of power going up hill and died eventully at the top. 11:00 pm Called affinity road service and local mechanic came and replaced outside fuel filter. Limped into Abilene and went to local Cat dealer. "Let me look at the coach", he said. Raised the bed and asked if that fuel filter had been replaced. Sold me a new one and I put it on. Problem solved. 2nd. Engine heating up on hills. Buddy of mine noticed the oil exhaust line (WHAT DO YOU CALL IT) was located right in front of the rear radiator and oil and dust had clogged the bottom third of the radiator. Re-routed the line out the back and washed the radiator out at the local car wash with water and engine degreaser bought at Walmart. Rear radiator Cat people check for this problem. Easy fix can save you a headache

[jtovosr]

I recentley posted this incedent on FMCA but it is well worth repeating.
Returning from Charlotte I was just north of Birminham on I-65 after hitting some terribly rough road the exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo broke off, this was because the hanger clamps rusted thru, I was lucky to be near a rest area so I pulled in & tied up the muffler & started back on I-65 looking for a repair shop. I didn't go 5-miles when I lost all the air & the suspension dropped.
I found several air lines & electrical wires all in a loom running across the frame about 5 feet from the turbo burnt thru. I un-hooked my car & was able to find a parts store for air lines & fittings, I was able to repair enough of them to get to the next exit & into a Cracker Barrell (by the way the management here where great!)once I was able to get the lines repaired I was able to find a repair place to replace the exhaust.
When I got home I purchased several yards of fire proof insulation & steel band clamps & wrapped the looms running across the rear beams & cut 1" wide stripes & wrapped all the main air lines that are near the exhaust.
I never thought about how hot the exhaust would be & I am actually luckey it didn't catch fire.
You can buy the insulation & clamps at Pegasusautoracing.com this preventive maintenance could save somebody a real serious problem.
My coach is a Monaco Windser with a 400 Cummins

[sundancer268]

1995 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser, Spartan EC2242 Chassie, Cummins B5.9 Engine, Allison 3060 Transmission.

US-2 Between Ashland Wi. and Iron Wood Mi.

Smelled funny oder and the low coolant light came on. Looked back into the bed room and saw fog. Pulled over and stopped MH and Engine. Lifted the Rear Engine cover and found the serpentine belt had broken and allowed the Anti-freeze to boil out. Was on a fringe area for our cell phones and took several hours to arrange tow back to Ashland Next evening $1018.00 lighter for new belt and belt tensioner we were on our way. Most expensive belt change I ever had done.

I am changing the Anti-Freeze and all the radiator hoses this weekend to prevent any problems from that side of the cooling system. Will also change the defective temperature sender unit for the idiot light and gauge that did not work when I needed them.

[DaveRsi]

02' P32 8.1L: being the 3rd vehicle off a ferry, RV just shut down at traffic light as I was coming to a stop. Fellow ferry people not Happy. six cop cars later, we tried to push 18,000 with no luck. Jacked all 4 off the ground all tires spun. Tried a to give it a pull, no dice!!!
Had to drop drive shaft, get wrecker.
Turns out when I used the brake at the light, the GREEN socket
on the steering column melted. Bad timing. Apparently this is a common problem with p-w chassis. There are service notes. Any workhorse dealer can add the relay system that prevents the ignition socket from overheating. Seems to be the heaviest red wire, which engages a seleniod for batteries. When it fries, the trans will lock-up?

[DocScottWesterl]

1985 Heriitage 2000 P30 workhorse chasis with chevy 454 engine; Headed out on a trip and 26 miles later it looses power and sputters and bucks and stops running. It would turn over and over but not start.:M Gas pumps are ok. Got towed home. The next day it started right up, drove it up our long driveway and it died halfway...No more start!:h I previously replaced the inline electric fuel pump, drained the gas tank, replaced the fuel lines, cleaned out the tank.
However unlikely, the final diagnosis after about 3 years of this intermittant problem was;:S The coil, located in the distributor was intermitant. Replaced it and it's been Happy Motorcoaching since then. 🙂