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campground leveling

johnalavery
Explorer
Explorer
How do the Lynx and Camco plastic levels work for a Lazy Daze with duals work for leveling. Thanks John
37 REPLIES 37

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Great Basin National Park is an excellent example of areas where we like to camp and often come up against tough leveling jobs. We don't do careful leveling for our refrigerator - we do it because we don't like walking or sleeping on slopes.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
pnichols wrote:
CA Traveler wrote:
MH leveling should not be difficult. In the past I would pull in, look at the levers, place my leveling blocks, drive up and be level. While I agree it takes a few trials on the other hand it's not rocket science, just know your rig.


It's not quite that easy in places like this:

My most extreme leveling was in Big Basin SP which took several attempts.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

JAXFL
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
EMD360 wrote:
Personally, I like the tri-levelers.

We can use just the two of them instead of building up the block pyramids


I have to agree with EMD360. I have used the wood ones that other people here talked about and found them heavy and unwieldy, the plastic Lego type were a pain to put together and would often break.

The Tri-Levelers that came with my Ex Rental have worked every where that I have needed them with out fail and if a Rental Company uses them as their standard Leveling Device that are in each Rental then they must stand up to most any kind of use.

They even show them in their Orientation Video with a full demonstration of their use at the 11 minute mark in the video.


Also have and use these. Got a total of 6 but normally only need 4 at any given time. easy to use.
Happy Trails
JAXFL
2008 3100LTD Sun Seeker
2008 Chevy Colorado Z71 4x4 Auto Toad

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
CA Traveler wrote:
MH leveling should not be difficult. In the past I would pull in, look at the levers, place my leveling blocks, drive up and be level. While I agree it takes a few trials on the other hand it's not rocket science, just know your rig.


It's not quite that easy in places like this:

2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
The Anderson levelers are designed for side to side leveling as in TV/5er. Of course you could use 5 and level a MH but why?

MH leveling should not be difficult. In the past I would pull in, look at the levers, place my leveling blocks, drive up and be level. While I agree it takes a few trials on the other hand it's not rocket science, just know your rig.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

2dogtravellin
Explorer II
Explorer II
24ft Lazy Daze here. We carry 2 bags of the orange Lynx. We've had no problems with them at all. As others have said, put them under both tires of the dualies.

Hank85713
Explorer
Explorer
For the MH and the TT we have I carry 2x10s 12 inches long and can stack as needed. I also have a pack of the yellow and orange legos. They all work as designed but sometime you need to have a few of everything. Reason I have orange legos is that one place we stayed need a lot to level, so had to block rear wheels up and then use the 2x's under the jacks. This was in 2 different driveways where parking on the street was not possible! I use the 2x's also unde r the jacks to keep them from sinking into soft ground or asphalt when parking and leveling. I have 1 compartment at the rear that is where I store all the leveling stuff we carry. So you will lose some storage space no matter what you use. On a c/B+ some are short of a lot of outside storage unless you have like a itaska or some that the whole rear bay is storage. We dont have that option. I also can carry some 2x's if needed in the towd so that could be an option for you if you tow 1.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
EMD360 wrote:
Personally, I like the tri-levelers.

We can use just the two of them instead of building up the block pyramids


I have to agree with EMD360. I have used the wood ones that other people here talked about and found them heavy and unwieldy, the plastic Lego type were a pain to put together and would often break.

The Tri-Levelers that came with my Ex Rental have worked every where that I have needed them with out fail and if a Rental Company uses them as their standard Leveling Device that are in each Rental then they must stand up to most any kind of use.

They even show them in their Orientation Video with a full demonstration of their use at the 11 minute mark in the video.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Phil,

I use leveling most when parked on ordinary residential streets. Fortunately Saskatchewan is mostly pretty flat.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
"I turn the RV around and put the nose in the low spot."

If possible out in the boonies ... or alternatively - if your hookups can still reach in a campground, if nose-in/rear-in is allowed in a campground, and if the circle loop versus campsite angles make it possible in a campground.

I figure it's better to be prepared for everything rather than be sorry for anything. ๐Ÿ™‚
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Phil,

I turn the RV around and put the nose in the low spot.

pnichols wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
No, I've never needed to do both rear duals on passenger's and driver's side.


Don ... then how do you raise the whole back end when it's low? It's of course a tremendous tire overload to support only one tire of a dual set on a motorhome when leveling.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a Husky digital level at Lowes for a particular project. When I tried it inside the Class C, I was surprised at how much perceived tilt it takes before the fridge's specs for level operation are exceeded. Now I don't worry nearly as much about being perfectly level. Now the fridge works for me instead of the other way around. ๐Ÿ™‚
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

gkainz
Explorer
Explorer
If I'm faced with having to raise 3 corners, I usually opt to lower one corner (if not in a place where some campground owner/host will get grumpy). Small shovel, small hole, problem solved.
'07 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 Quad Cab
'10 Keystone Laredo 245 5er

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Don and jillhop,

From an unstable rock viewpoint: Note what I said above ... that's not my rig in the photo - just my kind of home made stairstep leveling blocks. I'd use short pieces of 2X6 boards in place of the rock! When you don't need any more lift than 4 1/2 inches, no prop is needed underneath the front edge of the stairstep block.

Also, you could easily build your stairstep blocks with 8 inch long step landings instead of only 6 inch long step landings if you're worried about not enough tire area being supported on each step level.

pianotuna wrote:
No, I've never needed to do both rear duals on passenger's and driver's side.


Don ... then how do you raise the whole back end when it's low? It's of course a tremendous tire overload to support only one tire of a dual set on a motorhome when leveling.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C