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Can I use a household Faucet in RV?

lacofdfireman
Explorer
Explorer
Need to replace a leaky faucet in Kitchen sink of Class A. Can I use a Faucet from Home Depot that is Residential grade instead of buying from an RV specific dealer like Camping World? Just not sure if the RV specific ones are designed different.
2007 Forest River Georgetown 350 DS SE Bunk Model Class A V10
2013 Yamaha Super Tenere 1200 ADV Bike
MotoJug Motorcycle Hydration System








21 REPLIES 21

Achilles1231
Explorer
Explorer

Yes, you can use a residential-grade faucet from Home Depot in your 2007 Forest River Georgetown 350 DS SE, as long as it fits the space and connections in your RV. Ensure the faucet's dimensions match the sink's mounting holes and check for compatible plumbing connections. Residential faucets may be heavier and not specifically designed for RV water pressure, but they can offer more style options. RV-specific faucets, however, are usually lighter, more compact, and built for lower water pressure systems. Consider these factors and verify compatibility before purchasing.

While I am sure this information would have been helpful to the OP, this topic is 8 years old and the OP hasn't been on here since. 


Jeff - 2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Can I use a household faucet to replace the Kitchen Sink Faucet?: YES. I DID.
Can I use a household Faucet to replace the Bathroom Sink Faucet?: Yes, I did.
(in this case because I wanted a different faucet)

Can I use a household faucet to replace the shower: Perhaps. Depending on the shower, I was unable to do so on my shower.

Does this help?

NOTE What faucet, any particular one? This depends on your existing faucet but basically.. NO.. In my case the sink was drilled "Universal" Since my OEM was a pull out head type (The faucet "Arm" is the sprayer) I got the same type. but once I got into it I could have gotten one with a soap dispenser, or a sprayer on the side,, any kind would have worked.. I DID have to adapt one water line due to differences in the length of the line.. This took one brass fitting (1/2 inch nipple, I like brass better than iron) and one hose assembly with pre-fitted 1/2 inch ends.

Bathroom sink.. Likewise it was "Drilled" universal, any faucet would work.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

mtrumpet
Explorer
Explorer
I replaced our faucets with standard household faucets (Moen & American Standard)EXCEPT for the tub/shower faucet. That one had to be replaced with an RV faucet due to the configuration and attitude of which it is mounted. Just easier to run down to CW a buy a decent replacement for that one. Luckily, they had one that closely matched the bathroom sink faucet that I changed out.
Mark & Cherie
2002 Newmar Dutch Star DP 3872, Cummins 350 ISC, Spartan Chassis

Busskipper
Explorer
Explorer
lacofdfireman wrote:
Need to replace a leaky faucet in Kitchen sink of Class A. Can I use a Faucet from Home Depot that is Residential grade instead of buying from an RV specific dealer like Camping World? Just not sure if the RV specific ones are designed different.


If it fits and connects the simple answer to the question would be YES....

But because it is likely A RESIDENTIAL UNIT NOW you should be able to just replace the works to make it good again.

IMHO it is a lot easier to repair than replace.

JMHO,
Busskipper
Maryland/Colorado
Travel Supreme 42DS04
GX470-FMCA - Travel less now - But still love to be on the Road
States traveled in this Coach

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
You seem to be talking about two different things:

1. the amount of "stagnant" water that sits in the pipes and must be emptied before the hot water can reach the faucet;

2. having the hot water pre-mixed to create the preferred temperature when it finally comes out of the faucet.

I can see your fancy faucet working for #2, but that stagnant water STILL has to come out of the pipes regardless of the temperature of the hot water.

For me, I see no need to have a pre-determined temperature. I choose my water temperature based on a multitude of choices - outside temp; what I'm cleaning; etc. And I don't waste endless time adjusting. I know how far to pull/turn the handle to get the basic temp I want. It takes half a second to do a fine adjustment of that. And I'm using the water that's coming out - too hot, too cold, or just right.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some owners don't know what is under the sink, but water distribution can get pretty tricky.
I build new house in California and that being in California, made me to comply with Title 24 energy design.
The design would not allow me to install 2 of tankless water heaters, so having the heater on one side of exterior wall and guest bathroom on other side of the house, I measure to dump 2 gallons of water before warm water shows up at the faucet.
That even paying the attention to not use too much 3/4" pipes that would even made it longer wait.
Pull-out shower in kitchen takes about 1/2 glass of water. That might not seem much in the house, but when you bondock with 20 gallons of fresh water, you will notice the difference.
Thermostat valve not only save you water wasted on endless adjusting the temperature and flow, but also lot of frustration doing so.
When thermostat valves did cost $500, people hesitate to spend that kind of money, but heck, now you can buy them for 100 few bucks.
What not put more sense in your everyday life?

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
DutchmenSport wrote:
toedtoes wrote:
I don't understand the difference. My faucets (old and new; kitchen and bathroom) don't dump a lot of water before I get hot. If I turn the hot knob, I get hot water right from the start. Are new RVS different?


It all depends upon the camper and the distance between the water heater and the faucet. My kitchen faucet is about 5 feet from the water heater. We have hot water almost instantly there. The bathroom, all the plumbing involved, is probably 20-25 feet of tubing. It takes much longer for the shower and bathroom sink to get hot. But, that's the way every camper (and house is)... farther distance, longer it takes.


OK, that makes sense, but even with a thermostatically-controlled faucet, you'll still get the initial cold water - because it was water sitting in the pipes. All those fancy faucets do is dilute the hot water as it comes out of the tank so you always get the same temp ONCE the stagnant water has been eliminated from the pipes. I don't see how that speeds up the time it takes for the hot water to get through the piping.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
toedtoes wrote:
I don't understand the difference. My faucets (old and new; kitchen and bathroom) don't dump a lot of water before I get hot. If I turn the hot knob, I get hot water right from the start. Are new RVS different?


It all depends upon the camper and the distance between the water heater and the faucet. My kitchen faucet is about 5 feet from the water heater. We have hot water almost instantly there. The bathroom, all the plumbing involved, is probably 20-25 feet of tubing. It takes much longer for the shower and bathroom sink to get hot. But, that's the way every camper (and house is)... farther distance, longer it takes.

phillyg
Explorer II
Explorer II
For the most part, yes. Just take the old faucet with you when you go to the big box store.
--2005 Ford F350 Lariat Crewcab 6.0, 4x4, 3.73 rear
--2016 Montana 3711FL, 40'
--2014 Wildcat 327CK, 38' SOLD

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
Kayteg1 wrote:
Per my experience most of RV builders buy the cheapest fixtures they can find on the market, or the fixtures no house inspector would allow in living spaces.
Do yourself a favor and spend few more bucks for thermostat-controlled faucet.
Here is pictorial how I did it in my camper bathroom, but the same faucet comes with no shower for kitchen use. Lot of variations available on ebay and coming from China they are really affordable.
Pull-outs take dumping more water before warm water comes, so not that advisable in RV. The wait time is about 10 days, what is 3 days for shipment from China to USA and 7 days for US customs and USPS.
faucet upgrade


I don't understand the difference. My faucets (old and new; kitchen and bathroom) don't dump a lot of water before I get hot. If I turn the hot knob, I get hot water right from the start. Are new RVS different?
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
You could easily get the flexible metal or plastic reinforced white hoses with the 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch ends. Just connect both ends and there ya go! You can get a 1/2 to 1/2 male to male threaded PVC connector to join the pipe in the trailer to the flexible hose. It's an easy fix if the faucet is 3/8 inch. I thought most kitchen faucets were 1/2 inch and bathrooms were 3/8 inch though?