Changing/replacing city water inlet connector

[Useroverdrive]

Hello all,

not sure if this is the correct section to post this, so moderator move it if needed. Here goes:

I have a 1989 Mallard Sprinter class A and I need to replace the city water inlet. I have tried a couple of different water hoses and replaced several different O-rings and I still have a leak behind the hose connector. The check valve is in good shape so thats eliminated. The city water inlet is brass on the back side, goes through the city/gravity hatch and is pressed into the hose connector on the front side.

Is there an easy way to replace this? I have found a lot of threads that say,"just replace it, it's easy", yet theres no explanation of what I need to do. Do I grind the inlet in half? Cut a circle around it and replace with the new one? For that matter can I find a through wall coupling and add a hose connector on one side and water line connector on the other side?

I'd appreciate any input that you all can provide

Thanks,
DS

[DSDP_Don]

DS....The reason the city water inlets go bad is because people are constantly connecting and disconnecting hoses that hang from the connector and put stress on it.

Buy a brass quick connect from Harbor Freight, Home Depot or Lowes (sold near the water hoses). Connect the male end, using a pair of pliers, to the city water inlet. Leave it there and never remove it. Now connect a 90 degree metal turn to the end of your water hose and the female quick connect to the 90 degree turn.

Now when you're hooking up utilities at a campsite, you just connect the hose to the spigot and quick connect the other end to your RV. The 90 degree bend takes the stress off of your city water connection. If you use a regulator, leave it connected to the end that attaches to the campground spigot.

[enblethen]

Thanks for the update!

[Useroverdrive]

Finally got the inlet replaced and it looks pretty good if I do say so myself. Even better, no more leaks and when its replacement time again, 3 screws and its out

[Gjac]

Glad you found the solution. Direct replacement parts are getting harder to find as the MH gets older. I had to do may mods to fix things of the years.

[Useroverdrive]

Gjac, I picked up a replacement inlet (3 screw type) and will be replacing the old one soon. I'll make pictures and such of my process and maybe post them for anyone that needs to see the repair

[Useroverdrive]

Thanks x 10 for all the input. I have seriously learned a ton on this site and will continue to pick everyones brains. 🙂

[Gjac]

Dave as Bud said you have to remove the whole door to get to the back. The door has 8 screws to remove. The folks that say it is easy have the kind that have 3 screws for the city valve and it is inside of the water compartment. If you can't find a replacement door assy I would remove the door assy then remove the city valve and replace it with the 3 screw type. You may have to use a hole saw to remove the old valve. You can tell once the door assy is removed.

[Useroverdrive]

I agree. I don't have a problem with removing the hatch assy, I just think its dumb to pay $50-$100 for a whole new hatch over a $15 part

[enblethen]

Even if you could find the replacement water fill piece, you would still need to remove the hatch assembly to get to the line attached to the back poertion.

[Useroverdrive]

This is close to what mine looks like:

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/gravity-water-fill-hatch/60331

Unless I have to, I really don't wan't to replace to whole hatch. I was just wondering if there were a way to replace only the city water inlet

[2oldman]

Hmmm.. there aren't screws holding it? Perhaps post a picture for us.

[enblethen]

Most of the water inlets are crimped in place and you must replace the door assembly along with hose connector.
You would have to do search for correct size and style
Water hatches