CHF

[mikemc53]

I know there are countless threads on the "cheap handling fix" and I have read a few and watched some videos. I still have a question or two: In watching the videos I get some variance of opinion on the difficulty (or lack of) in doing the job. One fellow says it is a twenty minute job - no sweat. Another guy says it is a tough go and moving the bar into position to set in the second set of holes takes a lot of push and pull. Somebody used a jack to move and align the sway bar and another said he just moved it, by hand, and locked it down. What none of them actually do is show the work being done. Every one that I have seen shows the "after" but not how they got there.

I have looked under my unit (2004 HR Vacationer 37 PCT) and it looks pretty wide open and easy to access. My question(s) is; how tough is it to actually move the bar into position once you've removed the nut? There were also a few guys who talked about what a terrible angle putting the rod in the second hole caused and one of them wouldn't do it because of that. Is this really the case?

Anyone here done this themselves and have any answers (above) or pointers?

Thanks

[wildmanbaker]

Depending on which rear end you have, there may be interference with the sway bar on the extreme limits of travel, either up or down. You do not want the sway bar to hit the rear end housing if you somehow get the rear wheels off the ground. The best way to check this is to loosely connect the end links, block the front tires well, and using your leveling system to raise the rear wheels off the ground, to verify the sway bar and housing to not make contact.

[stripit]

I just did the front sway bar adjustment last week, and from start to finish maybe 20 minutes. I did use a bottle jack to help move the sway bar up as it was too tight for me to move without the jack. I think it was pretty easy. Will do the rear this weekend.

[Dog_Trainer]

TNGW1500SE wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:
Be aware that if you replace the Ford links with the Helwig links, those new links have SAE bolts, not metric and there is a slight size difference. That slight size difference caused a POPPING SOUND (the bolt itself was popping) when the coach would move side/side while driving.

TRUE!!!!!!!!

And you'll chase your tail forever looking for the problem! I KNOW!

WOW thanks for that information I have been trying to figure that sound out. I bet I have found the culprit.

[TNGW1500SE]

Easy job!

Should be called the "E&CHF"

A jack and some hand tools. One beer job.

[TNGW1500SE]

kmb1966 wrote:
Be aware that if you replace the Ford links with the Helwig links, those new links have SAE bolts, not metric and there is a slight size difference. That slight size difference caused a POPPING SOUND (the bolt itself was popping) when the coach would move side/side while driving.

TRUE!!!!!!!!

And you'll chase your tail forever looking for the problem! I KNOW!

[georgelesley]

I did mine easily with a jack to raise the lower end. It moved very easy with little jacking effort. Probably could have done it without a jack but being a 73 yr old stroke survivor I made it simple. Rather than extended links i would suggest the brackets TeJay on IRV2 makes. Well worth the small bit he charges. Mine fit and worked perfectly.

[kmb1966]

Be aware that if you replace the Ford links with the Helwig links, those new links have SAE bolts, not metric and there is a slight size difference. That slight size difference caused a POPPING SOUND (the bolt itself was popping) when the coach would move side/side while driving.

[Dutch_12078]

Similar to doing the CHF, I've changed a lot of sway bar links over the years. How easy or difficult it is to align the second link with the bolt hole is a function of how level the ground is and how level the vehicle sits. With everything level the holes align with almost no effort. The further off level, the more difficult. Completing the CHF in 20 minutes is probably a stretch that only includes the actual "wrench time", and not the prep time to get out the tools, etc. The difficulty will also differ depending on the condition of the hardware. The more rust, the more difficulty...

[Dale_Traveling]

I used a jack (quick and easy) for the front axle while the rear I replaced the degraded bushings at the same time. The bushings will have a pretty good grip on the bar so it can be stiff but it will move. A good size dead blow mallet will probably make quick work of positioning the bar.

Regarding the angles and such, you can have the links replaced or lenghtened that will set the bar angle back to where it is used the original holes. Myself, I'm at 40K miles post change with original links and no problems.

[doxiemom11]

DH did it on our 2000 both front and rear - wasn't difficult.

[MountainAir05]

Had a 99 and done it. One side was easy and the other side I use a jack. If you have good arm muscles you could have done both side on mine. One thing about it if you do not like the ride / handling just put it back.