Converter Fried

[EmergencyNrse]

So I fried my converter (50 amp wired to 30 amp plug)and it no longer charges my batteries.
Killed a box fan and at least one 15 amp breaker on my panel. Everything else seems to be fine.

I'm in the process of replace/upgrading the converter but I have a question: Why do I have a 55 amp converter for a 30 amp system?

Do I replace with another 55 amp converter or buy a 30 amp converter?
The wiring is plug n play so I feel I can tackle the installation I just don't want to put in the wrong converter for my coach.

I tried doing a search and nothing seemed to address this issue.
Thank you in advance

[pianotuna]

Hi Doug,

I've seen the reverse polarity fuses blow when I attempted to do double conversion using my Magnum inverter/charger. The inrush current is too great. Why did I attempt that? Because the Magnum dislikes MOST gfci outlets. I did add a switch before my converter so when on limited power I can use the dedicated inverter powered outlet in the kitchen.

BTW after the fuses were replaced the converter was just fine.

dougrainer wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
Are you sure it is fried? Did you check the reverse polarity fuses on the output of the converter?

The reverse polarity fuses. WHEN I have seen them blown from REVERSING the Coach battery connections, usually they did not protect the Converter and the converter is defective. Now, the OP stated he had a 50 amp wired to a 30 amp. WHY THAT FRIED ANYTHING IS A MYSTERY. But, I assume he meant a 220 hit, not 50 wired to a 30 which would not cause any problem. IF a Converter takes a 220 hit, the Polarity fuses will NOT save the Converter. They only save if you do indeed miswire the 12 volt battery. Doug

[dougrainer]

pianotuna wrote:
Are you sure it is fried? Did you check the reverse polarity fuses on the output of the converter?

The reason the wfco is a poor choice is that they charge quite slowly and rarely get into boost mode. That may lead to poor battery life (as in number of cycles).

My choice would be the PD which now charges at 14.6 volts in bulk mode. Make sure to get the "wizard" that allows you to control the modes.

You do not want a simple surge protector. You want an energy management system. The best choice may be the Progressive Industries unit, as it comes with a life time guarantee.

The reverse polarity fuses. WHEN I have seen them blown from REVERSING the Coach battery connections, usually they did not protect the Converter and the converter is defective. Now, the OP stated he had a 50 amp wired to a 30 amp. WHY THAT FRIED ANYTHING IS A MYSTERY. But, I assume he meant a 220 hit, not 50 wired to a 30 which would not cause any problem. IF a Converter takes a 220 hit, the Polarity fuses will NOT save the Converter. They only save if you do indeed miswire the 12 volt battery. Doug

[dougrainer]

The SIZE of a Converter(30/45/55/75 amp) is determined on the total 12 volt DC load of the RV. You can go HIGHER than your OEM but it is not really needed. If I had a LOWER than 55 amp as standard, I would replacer it with a 55 amp. The DC and 120 plug will be the correct size for a 55 amp in place of a 30/45 AMP Converter. Doug

[wa8yxm]

Why a 55 amp apple on a 30 amp orange system? (Hopefully you get the idea you are comparing apples to oranges).

The 30 amp is 30 amps at 120 volts or 3600 watts

The 55 is at 14 volts or 770 of those 3600 watts. Two different systems Likely draws close to 1,000 watts due to conversion loss

But it's 55 amps at 12 volts. Different system.

[time2roll]

EmergencyNrse wrote:
It was a miswired 30 amp plug to be sure. A makeshift campground.
My fault for not buying a surge protector. Pretty sure it would have saved me. No bother.
I needed an upgrade anyway. Four Winds didn't equip this coach with anything high-end.

Curious, why not a 60 or 70 amp converter replacemnt then? The prices are comparable.
WFCO isn't a decent replacement?
Why Progressive Dynamics? PowerMax?

You can't just keep going bigger on amps unless you evaluate the wiring is capable. I would go max 60 unless you have a specific need for fast charging such as 6+ batteries to recharge on generator.

Yes WFCO is the cheapest just as you say about Four Winds. They do fail regularly on their own. Also they have a reputation of not shifting between the 3 stage charge modes when expected.

PD and PowerMax are both reliable and the 3 stage charging actually works. I believe PowerMax has a 3 year warranty if that helps.

[pianotuna]

Are you sure it is fried? Did you check the reverse polarity fuses on the output of the converter?

The reason the wfco is a poor choice is that they charge quite slowly and rarely get into boost mode. That may lead to poor battery life (as in number of cycles).

My choice would be the PD which now charges at 14.6 volts in bulk mode. Make sure to get the "wizard" that allows you to control the modes.

You do not want a simple surge protector. You want an energy management system. The best choice may be the Progressive Industries unit, as it comes with a life time guarantee.

[time2roll]

I would stay away from WFCO.

30 amp 120 volt system is separate from the 12 volt system so the amp ratings are not related.

Get a Progressive Dynamics, IOTA or PowerMax.

45 to 60 amps rating is fine if you are generally plugged in when stopped.

http://www.bestconverter.com/

Not too soon to also get a Progressive industries EMS that protects against high voltage, low voltage, bad ground and reverse polarity.

https://progressiveindustries.myshopify.com/products/ems-hw30c-pid

[jhilley]

A 60 will work fine. A 70 may require a 20 amp 120 VAC receptacle and at full load may trip your breaker on the converter circuit.

[EmergencyNrse]

It was a miswired 30 amp plug to be sure. A makeshift campground.
My fault for not buying a surge protector. Pretty sure it would have saved me. No bother.
I needed an upgrade anyway. Four Winds didn't equip this coach with anything high-end.

Curious, why not a 60 or 70 amp converter replacemnt then? The prices are comparable.
WFCO isn't a decent replacement?
Why Progressive Dynamics? PowerMax?

[MrWizard]

55 amp at 14v DC charge approx 700w, approx 8 amps 120vac input power

30 amp at 120v , 3600w Max power for RV,
A/C 1400 to 1800 Watts depending on the weather
MW 1000 cooking Watts. 1450 input Watts
RV fridge on electric 340 Watts

It's the power , not the amps , volts * amps equal the Watts power

Two different voltages , comparing apples to oranges

50 amps 120v would not have hurt the RV
I think you mean you plugged to a 230vac socket, either a dryer or welder socket

There have been a number of members who have done that so far this year, a few of them it was the correct socket wired wrong by the electrician
The rest somehow managed to to force the RV plug with round ground pin into the 'L' shaped ground on the dryer plug

If the pins don't look right, don't try using that socket

[Old-Biscuit]

55A rating is for DC system LOAD AND battery Charging.

30A is the 120V AC side for your RV


WFCO.....pass.

Go with BD 55A Converter/Charger

[keefr]

The 55 amps is the output of your converter. It will provide 55 amps of 12-volt output which will either charge your batteries or run your lights. The 30-amp system you are referring to is the AC input for your unit. The 30 amps is at 120 volts and powers your air conditioner, microwave, 120 volt outlets and your converter. The converter itself only uses a couple of amps of AC power.

[newman_fulltime]

buy a progressive dynamics.You can get them from ebay and amazon.

[EmergencyNrse]

I'm looking at buying a WFCO Deck Mount Converter/Charger – 55 Amp
#58324 to replace my old one. Seems to have great reviews.