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Corrugated exterior skin on old motorhomes...and other ideas

I-10bound
Explorer
Explorer
Older motorhomes up until the late 80's had exterior siding of corrugated sheeting. You know like on a 1985 Chieftain or Pace Arrow? Is that a corrugated aluminum? Or is it fiberglass? One thing I've noticed is that it doesn't seem to delaminate, and some old ones still have a nice shine! Also what is directly under that exterior sheeting? A layer of plywood, or does the sheeting mount directly to the framework?

I'm just asking because every now and then I see an older 80's class A for $5,000 to $7,000, and some of them look very clean and solid. It would be a cheap way to get started in RV's. Plus I love those old Chieftains because they made them in short models. Those 22' - 24' models are just awesome, they're like a huge Vanagon, and I bet you could fit one in a parking space.

Older class C's are an option too, but I just don't see how those cabover sleepers could stay leak free over 15 to 20 years. An old class A just seems like a simpler and better design.

I might be needing something fairly soon too. I just got hired as city bus driver in Phoenix. It's 5 days a week, and the bus compound is 25 miles away. And being a new driver I might get stuck with the 3:30am shift. So I'm thinking the way to go would be just park an RV in their parking lot (or in a dirt lot nearby), and spend a few days out at a time.

I sure wish I had the money for a down payment on a Roadtrek, that would be perfect. But even old ones go for a minimum of $15,000. I need a solution that I can have quickly and for cheap. A travel trailer would just be too long with my Grand Marquis towing it.

I even thought of just getting a cargo van. I could build it up as I get paid...insulation, interior paneling, AC unit, small generator. But eventually I'd need a basic plumbing system which I've been trying to piece together in my head. You see your blackwater tank mounts underneath the van, with the toilet above it. You have to vent the BW tank, I was thinking an easy solution is just run a pipe horizantilly off the tank, curve it around the rear or side of the van, and just run it up a few feet. I don't think you'd have to run it all way to the roof. For a shower, I just need a water collection pan on the floor with a drain going through the floor, or maybe a small greywater tank. I'll need some sort of water heater, and a freshwater tank that can just go inside the van. Valterra makes all the fittings and valves for this stuff. Sure it would be alot of work, but you take your time, one project at a time. But I'd end up with a totally self contained van, that I could park anywhere, for a lot less than a $100,000 Roadtrek.

My mind is all over the place as you can see. If you all have any suggestions let me know, thanks.
7 REPLIES 7

BrianinMichigan
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 1990 that has the corrugated fiberglass. It has delamination. Noticed it about 15 years ago. Fixed what I could and lived with it ever since.
1990 GEORGIE BOY 28' 454 4BBL, TURBO 400 TRANS,
CAMPING: WHERE YOU SPEND A SMALL FORTUNE TO LIVE LIKE A HOMELESS PERSON.

Bruce_Brown
Moderator
Moderator
Not a motorhome, but a corrugated travel trailer if it helps any;

Camper Rehab

It was very time consuming but overall a pretty easy job.
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Corrugated is both stapled and glued. Staple metal has what they call an S lock. Non S lock is glued. The raised part of the metal is called a Mesa. Doug

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Corrugated RV sides are generally made of interlocking aluminum pieces, stapled or nailed to a wooden framework underneath. Obviously they cannot delaminate, since they are not laminated to begin with. If water gets in, however, the wooden framework very much can rot away.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Winnebago/Itasca had BOTH Fiberglass and Aluminum exterior skin. BOTH were glued to Styrofoam with very small aluminum studs or metal plates for where cabinets and such needed backing for the screws to bite. BOTH had a Steel 2 inch by 1 inch roll bar. One behind the drivers seat from the floor up inside the wall, then across the roof and down the other wall. NOT for roll over protection. The ads Winne had back then showing the Motorhome upside down suspended by a crane with steel cables and they dropped it a few feet on the roof to the ground. Because it was dropped straight down, it did not collapse. But wiser heads back then showed that IF the RV rolled it would collapse. Fleetwoods, had fiberglass also glued to a styrofoam wall with various wood or aluminum plates/studs for securing screws. They DID have delaminating on models that had leaks or inadequate glue but it was very rare. They ALL required waxing. If you did not Wax, they faded like all unwaxed vehicles. Also, most Class C's all eventually leaked at the front cap IF they had the picture window. That is why you rarely see those Picture windows in the front caps on newer Class C motorhomes. Doug

darsben1
Explorer
Explorer
With the price of apartments in Phoenix, RENT ONE. Or rent a room
You will not stay cool in the summer in your rig.
Traveling with my best friend, my wife in a 1990 Southwind

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check out cheaprvliving.com. Lots of people on there thinking the same way you are.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board