Dodge B300 440 start problem

[my440]

Ok 1978 440 Dodge B300
There has been no issues and it has been running well.
Today though I turned over the key cranking the engine.
The engine continues cranking and will not fire until the moment I release the key.
Once the key gets released it fires up and runs well.
What may be the troubles here I wonder?

Ideas?
Thanks!

[j-d]

Could be a connection, that's for sure. Also, the magnetic pickup in the distributor gets weak. Could be that cranking lowers available voltage, and it spikes back up in the instant you release the Key from Start to Run. Then the engine catches.

We had a 1971 Dodge with the 318 engine and points/condenser ignition. Big project, we put a 360 in it, and changed the ignition to MoPar electronic. It ran much stronger, but then it did that funky starting thing. Our daughters were young then, and they'd cheer Mom when she got it to start. "Yeah Mom, You Got It!"

[my440]

Ok thanks guys, appreciate all your input.
Its good now, not sure of the exact culprit as I wiggled and jiggled all the electrics on the firewall including the ballast went and turned the key and started as it should.
Ordering all the parts as suggested for the glovebox.
Thanks!!

[PaulJ2]

1995brave wrote:
Ballast resister. It has two different resisters, one for start and one for run. I has a 73 Dodge van and kept several ballast resisters and electronic ignition units in my glove box. Ballast resisters were .79 cents at K-Mart in the 70's. Believe me it is the ballast resister.

Yup. Replace that ceramic 4 pin resister unit, usually mounted to the firewall with one screw through the middle. Memories!

[j-d]

We had a Dodge years ago. Ignition was a PITA, between Resistor, Module, and even Wiring. I swapped up from a Points/Condenser setup to the MoPar electronic with the two-chambered resistor, the five-pin Module, etc. One thing I learned, was DON'T Tighten the Screw through the middle of the Resistor. Just bring it in place and stop. Tight helps it crack.

BUT!!! If I still had a Dodge like that, I would do this GM HEI Hack from Hot Rod Magazine and be done with it.

[1995brave]

If the replacement resistor does not fix the problem, look for the pink wire coming off one side of the resistor. This is the start wire and may be broken in the connector or somewhere back to the switch. Should have 12 volts when ign. switch is in start position. Never had the wire break, but a friend at work did and reminded me of it this morning.

[1995brave]

Ballast resister. It has two different resisters, one for start and one for run. I has a 73 Dodge van and kept several ballast resisters and electronic ignition units in my glove box. Ballast resisters were .79 cents at K-Mart in the 70's. Believe me it is the ballast resister.

[ScottG]

Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
Wow, talk about a blast from the past.

This is how ALL Dodge engines used to run.

I remember as a kid listening for eons while my dad cranked that whiney starter on our old Dodge van trying to get it to start every single time after getting gas.

You used to hear those Dodge starters everywhere...that's how everyone noticed their signature whine, since they never started. You almost heard the starters more than the engines.

They did have a distictive sound didn't they!!

[Harold_Fairbank]

Wow, talk about a blast from the past.

This is how ALL Dodge engines used to run.

I remember as a kid listening for eons while my dad cranked that whiney starter on our old Dodge van trying to get it to start every single time after getting gas.

You used to hear those Dodge starters everywhere...that's how everyone noticed their signature whine, since they never started. You almost heard the starters more than the engines.

[ScottG]

If it runs after you let the ign switch go, the ballast resistor has to be good.

[azrving]

That was along time ago but......isn't there a ballast resistor that ties into the ignition? I think that's what its called. Check the wires on it

[ScottG]

Have you done anything with the ignition system lately? If I remember correctly, as you crank the eng you bypass the ign resistor - something like that - and it applies full voltage to the coil. I'm thinking that wire is open or the ign switch is bad.
I would check for voltage at the coil when cranking.