Fiberclass clearcoat help.Sandpaper

[Mbrown]

I just went through the whole inside of my Newly purchased 2001 Jamboree, now I'm attempting to spruce up the outside. The finish is fading so I purchased the 3M Rubbing compound/restorer based on the popular reviews. Come to find out upon closer inspection that someone made a poor attempt at spraying clearcoat on the finish and its blotchy. Used the the 3M with a High speed buffer and it's taking multiple efforts and elbow grease to remove this Clear Coat and get a good finish.
My question is; I read on one or the restoration posts that 800-1000 grit wet & dry may be used prior to buffing. I just want to Make Sure before I attempt this.
Or its back to wearing my Elbows out 😞

[Mbrown]

Yeah it's this thin coat of something that is flaking off but stubborn in other areas, tried floor stripper,wet & dry, scour pad, buffer, and rubbing compound by hand. Took All day for 1 side !!

[fltioga898]

I too dont believe the factory used a clear coat over their fiberglass surfaces. More than likely its something a previous owner put on, poly glow or red max floor finish. If you do try buffing i wouldnt go any more coarse than 1000 grit when sanding and use it wet, thats best..

[Gjac]

I have used 400, 600, and 800 grit to remove highly oxidized gel coat and stained gelcoat, then used the buffing wheel and compound to remove the sand paper marks. On my older MH the caps have maybe .020 of gelcoat but the sides are much thinner, so you don't want to burn through with the wheel. To me sanding is safer because its by hand and you can see and feel what you are doing. I would try dry sanding if the wet sanding does not take enough off.

[Mbrown]

And this stuff is not on the Cab, only on the Coach.

[Mbrown]

Thanks so much.
My Neighbor who knows everything, seemed to think it was a Clear Coat applied at the Factory, it is a very thin membrane so I didnt think it was Gel Coat even though I don't even know what that is. But this stuff thats on there sure sticks like the dickens.
But my question still stands about the wet and dry, I had a sheet of 600 grit that really didn't do much so bought 400. This sanding idea came from a Boat forum.

[tatest]

A Red Max/ZEP type of floor finish, if you are lucky. It can be chemically stripped.

The other thing sometimes used is a polyurethane finish, or a urethane DIY clearcoat, which tends to peel away where it didn't stick to a poorly prepared surface, but may need to be sanded where it did. There are strippers for polyurethane but they tend to be hard on what is underneath.

Automotive acrylic clearcoat is unlikely, over fiberglass. The stuff is too expensive, and the prep is a lot more work than a DIYer will get into. Chemical stripping, I would try only on a finish applied to metal, with expectation of taking it all the way down to the metal.

FWIW a 2001 Jamboree would not have had a finish applied from the factory. It will be vinyl decals over the fiberglass sheet, not even a real gelcoat except on molded parts.

[newman_fulltime]

its probably red max they used if so maybe a floor wax remover might be the way to go