fiberglass, Filon, roof

[homer1959]

Guy, im trying the search system without success. So im turning toward you. The class c i want to buy have a fiberglass roof, that looks like the filon side panel and on the roof that i had on my pop up trailer.

what do you think of this stuff ? I kind of like it , but i know nothing about class c construction their quality etc etc, they look all the same to me...

btw its a forest river sunseeker 3010

[Bumpyroad]

pnichols wrote:
Hmmm ... I wonder what's up with Winnebago consistency??

My 2005 Itasca has a one piece fiberglass roof that is nicely crowned (unlike what I am seeing in some Winnebago photos of their 2014/12015 line) and rolled over edges (can't tell about this from 2014/2015 Winnebago photos).

:h

is this a difference between Cs and As?
bumpy

[pnichols]

Hmmm ... I wonder what's up with Winnebago consistency??

My 2005 Itasca has a one piece fiberglass roof that is nicely crowned (unlike what I am seeing in some Winnebago photos of their 2014/12015 line) and rolled over edges (can't tell about this from 2014/2015 Winnebago photos).

:h

[Mich_F]

Snowman9000 wrote:
I agree with Mich F that the type of roof is less important than the construction and maintenance of all the seams/ fittings/ atttachments. Although we have had a rubber roof torn by a tree branch.

Thank you. :B
Over 25 years I've had 6 different RVs and not one has had a fiberglass roof. Perhaps I've just been lucky, but none have had issues related to the rubber roof.
On my 1997 Coachmen my sons did replace the rubber roof a little over 2 years ago only because it just looked like it was time to do that. It was 15 years old at the time.
About a month ago I bought my 7th RV, a 2001 Itasca which does have a fiberglass roof. Like yours it doesn't wrap over the side, but the trim piece that covers the transition is secured on the side walls and not on the top, which makes more sense, than putting a bunch of screws on the top.

[Snowman9000]

I agree with Mich F that the type of roof is less important than the construction and maintenance of all the seams/ fittings/ atttachments. Although we have had a rubber roof torn by a tree branch.

[Snowman9000]

homer1959 wrote:
Snowman, i trust that more than the rubber roof, but what do i know ! Wont be damage by tree branches like a rubber roof will be i would guess......that dicor stuff, do you apply that with a caulkin gun or a paintbrush ? It is becoming really hard when it gets old or it is easy to renew let say every 2 to 3 years if its needed ?

It applies with a caulking gun. It's very easy to use. You don't scrape off the old stuff, you clean it with lacquer thinner and put the new stuff on top of the old. Inspection means checking for cracks or flaws in the caulking. It's pretty good stuff if you maintain it. Most people do not maintain it.

[pnichols]

Mich F wrote:
Sure plenty of people have water leaks, but usually at transition points, like roof to wall, or around windows and vents and such, not through or because they have a rubber roof. In all those cases it doesn't make any difference whether the roof is rubber or fiberglass.

Probably the transition points between a smooth fiberglass roof and plastic vent edges, metal A/C bases, plastic bathroom skylight edges, metal antenna bases, etc., are easier to seal (using Eternbond, self-leveling sealants, etc.) than trying to get some material to adhere to porous rubber in those transition areas.

Also ... regarding even RVs with one-piece fiberglass roofs ... I wouldn't buy one unless the fiberglass roof also had rolled edges all along each side (in addition to a nice crown). Rolled edges eliminate another two-times-the-roof-length of leak prone seams.

[Mich_F]

With all this talk of how horrible rubber roofs are, I can't recall any posts of anyone having a problem with leaks because they have a rubber roof. Sure plenty of people have water leaks, but usually at transition points, like roof to wall, or around windows and vents and such, not through or because they have a rubber roof. In all those cases it doesn't make any difference whether the roof is rubber or fiberglass.

[Bumpyroad]

homer1959 wrote:
I'll stick with fiberglass then 🙂 I've watched a few video on youtube where you can see the damage done by water...man its scary !! Rest assure that I'll be on top of the roof maintenance schedule.

If someone had water leaks , tell me it is obvious when you inspect a RV if leaks are present . even a small one ? is the water migrate easily on the panel board inside ? The more I look at it the more loosing money on depreciation on a new Class C make sense now......at the very least you are buying some sort of peace of mind

yep all you have to do is check out posts by folks here who had problems with their RV and the answer is to sell it. somebody has to buy that lemon.
bumpy

[homer1959]

I'll stick with fiberglass then 🙂 I've watched a few video on youtube where you can see the damage done by water...man its scary !! Rest assure that I'll be on top of the roof maintenance schedule.

If someone had water leaks , tell me it is obvious when you inspect a RV if leaks are present . even a small one ? is the water migrate easily on the panel board inside ? The more I look at it the more loosing money on depreciation on a new Class C make sense now......at the very least you are buying some sort of peace of mind

[Bumpyroad]

Cousin_Eddie93 wrote:
Lessons learned; don't buy a rig with a rubber roof if you can avoid it.

gee, my sediments exactly.
One Trick Pony 🙂

[Cousin_Eddie93]

I replaced my original rubber EPDM roof when I purchased mine 4 years ago. I went through 10 tubes of Ducor lap sealant. It is applied with a chalk gun. A good chalk gun will be easier to use than a cheap one. You can also purchase EPDM in cans, liquid rubber etc, applies with a roller. Use the self leveling EPDM verity on the roof. Once applied, besure to go back and check the seams; make sure no areas were missed. I check my seams every six months when I clean the roof. Lessons learned; don't buy a rig with a rubber roof if you can avoid it. If it leaks the luan underneath quickly becomes compromised. As such, I also replaced 80% of the rigs roofing luan. I used 1/4" thick sheets of marine board. Sure, I added about 150 lbs to the vehicles weight but the roof is quite sturdy now.

[homer1959]

Snowman, i trust that more than the rubber roof, but what do i know ! Wont be damage by tree branches like a rubber roof will be i would guess......that dicor stuff, do you apply that with a caulkin gun or a paintbrush ? It is becoming really hard when it gets old or it is easy to renew let say every 2 to 3 years if its needed ?

[Snowman9000]

The Sunseeker roof is one piece of fiberglass. It is crowned. But it does not wrap over the sides. Instead they have a separate wrap corner piece, and seam covered with a typical roof trim strip, and of course where the sides meet the front and rear seams, there is a corner that catches water. It's not optimal IMO, but I will be closely watching and maintaining those seams. I have gone back and forth about applying Eternabond tape, but for now I think I will just stick with Dicor lap sealant and keep an eye on things. I need to put some Dicor over the exposed screws!

Here is a photo of the top-side seam:

[pnichols]

Is that Sunseeker fiberglass roof one piece, and nicely crowned ... versus just flat and made up of more than one piece?

You want a one piece and generously crowned fiberglass roof for additional long-term strength and leak protection.

Just as an observation: Winnebago products have been noted down through the years for their one-piece fiberglass Class C roofs. However looking carefully at photos on their website, it appears as if even they are selling some Class C motorhomes now with roofs with little or no crown in them.