Fixed my Trimark door lock, I think...

[trnfla]

I have been having a issue with my trimark 30-900 door lock where the paddle handle would sometimes not open the door.

After researching a replacement handle, I was directed to undo the handle to try to find a certain number to see which lock I needed to purchase.

When I was trying to get the lock apart I saw how the locked worked and realized that it looked like the adjustment nut (access behind black plastic plug on door jab) on the lock assembly was to loose making the paddle handle to have to be pulled to far to trigger the lock release.

I reinstalled the lock and adjusted the nut so now the door opens when the paddle handle is only moved about a quarter of the way.

Hopefully this fixed my problem.

FYI, this is another great reason to make sure that you either keep the front cab doors unlocked or a front cab door key hidden outside the camper when camping. Saved me the hassle of how to access the camper.

I will let you know if this solved my problem, doing a number of trips this summer.

[Mocoondo]

No, you didn't fix it. Earlier Trimarks are known to have this problem. They made a slight redesign, I believe last year, and the new ones have the problem corrected.

[IAMICHABOD]

Thanks Bordercollie I will PM you.

[Bordercollie]

I don't know how to post text or photo files on this forum. The instruction sheet is a pdf file with drawings. I could forward it to somebody's e-mail address if wanted.

[trnfla]

I located the old post from BorderCollie:

I tried the following adjustment procedure a number of times and it finally worked, at least it has not stuck again (yet):

1. Rotate the rotor (black nylon latch "grabber" in edge of door)until it latches
2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual lock lever)
3. While pulling up on the inside handle, turn the adjustment nut visible in the hole in edge of door, clockwise with long 7/16 socket until the latch releases
4. Manually turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns
5. Unlock the door and open the door from the inside handle. The latch should release before the inside handle reaches maximum travel.
6. CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE INSIDE HANDLE DOES NOT OPEN THE DOOR WHEN IT IS LOCKED

* This post was edited 08/08/12 01:39pm by Bordercollie *

[IAMICHABOD]

Bordercollie wrote:
I had the same problem, identified paddle lock from Trimark website, contacted Tri-Mark and tech e-mailed me adjustment instuctions. Lubed parts and adjusted nut with some trial and error, fixed it, Yea! Must be adjusted just right or won't open and lock reliably.

Bordercollie,
Since we have the same rigs, could you provide a link where I could get a copy of those instructions? It would be very handy to have.

Mine is getting a little iffy.

Thanks.

[Bordercollie]

I had the same problem, identified paddle lock from Trimark website, contacted Tri-Mark and tech e-mailed me adjustment instuctions. Lubed parts and adjusted nut with some trial and error, fixed it, Yea! Must be adjusted just right or won't open and lock reliably.

[trnfla]

SCVJeff wrote:

trnfla wrote:
Thanks for the advice. However, I have always been able to open the door from inside, it is the outside handle that would pull open without opening the door.

Thats the point. Then what? When these fail in a class A its a major thing.

The only way i know is to jimmy a window or literally drill through the lockset so it can hopefully be unlocked.

Sorry SCV, I did post this in the Class C section since mine is a Class C and that is why I also included my comment about keeping a front cab key outside the unit while camping.

I only can imagine what a pain it would be if this occurs in a Class A.

[j-d]

I wonder if every TriMark entry lockset has the problem alluded to above. There was a flurry of problems with them, documented here on RV.net. Advanced Search using "trimark", "Class C" and "Archive" will show that the culprits were Model 60-650, not the current OP's 30-900. Not to say TriMark doesn't make them all the same way, with a pot metal piece where steel belongs. I looked at ours, saw it wasn't 60-650 and called it Good. Maybe I shouldn't but so far so good. Also, coach has a residential deadbolt in the door, above the TriMark. That's the only lock I actually lock with. Don't know if that reduces the risk of lock-out/lock-in...

[SCVJeff]

trnfla wrote:
Thanks for the advice. However, I have always been able to open the door from inside, it is the outside handle that would pull open without opening the door.

Thats the point. Then what? When these fail in a class A its a major thing.

The only way i know is to jimmy a window or literally drill through the lockset so it can hopefully be unlocked.

[trnfla]

Thanks for the advice. However, I have always been able to open the door from inside, it is the outside handle that would pull open without opening the door.

[winnietrey]

Sounds like you may have got it fixed. But a bit of advice, from experience. If the thing breaks, in the door closed postion. It is an absolute nightmare to get out and replace.

If it does not work perfect now, or starts to act up at all. I would spend the 90 bucks, and replace it before it blows up. Sure wish I had.