Fuel Pump Replacement 2004 Fleetwood Terra V-10

[jdavidsmi]

It's been an ongoing issue for a while now, The engine was hard to start but once started would run great, but every bow bad then would seam to loose power but pick it right back up, and a couple for codes would be set P0171 and P0174. so i checked all the hoses, replaced the MAS, vacuum check, could not find the problem.
A couple of weeks ago on our way to the CG I lost all power and it would not pull a very small hill. i was driving about 60MPH. moved over to the side of the road and was almost stopped, suddenly I had power like nothing had happen. made it to the CG with no other problem. Again I checked everything i could see and touch, hoses, wire connectors, motor would start and run great.
We came home with no issues. But i started rechecking, still could not find a problem, This time i dug out my old fuel pressure gauge and i had only 20 PSI at the port on the fuel rail, and when the accelerator was pushed it dropped to 18 or so, I though this cannot be right, the old gauge was broken. I purchased a new gauge and fuel filter, and tried again. 21PSI now. checked the wiring and i had a full 13.3 volts at the pump. i wiggled every connection from the main panel to the pump and no change. 13.3 volts checked with three different volt meters. Decided it was a fuel pump ordered a new one and started soaking all the nuts and bolts with penetrating fluid. three days later, with new pump in hand I found i could fit the pump between the top of the tank and the bottom of the coach, great i don't have to drop the tank. put the wrench on the first nut and with very little pressure the stud snapped off. :Swoops, re sprayed everything and waited and extra day, a couple of them moved a little bit so i re-sprayed and waited again. yesterday using the method i was taught, wire brush the the threads, loosen and tighten loosen and tighten. i ended up snapping off a second stud.

:?So if your still reading after all that, My question is how do i replace the studs if possible or will i need to remove the tank and take it to a machine shop?

David

[rgatijnet1]

You ABS light could be as simple as a sensor that has moved out. You can check them with an ohmmeter by taking loose the connector that is a few feet away from the sensor. A good sensor should read about 1200 ohms and a bad one will read either zero or infinity. A little tap on the rear of each sensor will make sure that they are seated properly. After you start driving, it does take a few miles for the ABS sensors to reset and the light to go off.

[tderonne]

Any fuel line used inside he tank needs to be special hose. It's needs to be SAE rated 30R10. Ordinary fuel line isn't rated to withstand fuel on the outside.

I found some at Napa.

Not cheap, but you don't need much.

[jdavidsmi]

Yes quite a mess took a while to clean it out. I finally went down to ACE and bought a small wet/dry shop vacuum really made a difference.

I did some checks this morning on the fuel gauge issue. I hooked the old pump back up and the gauge worked just like it should. pulled the new pump back out and no matter where i moved the float the gauge never moved always show full. I contacted RockAuto and they are sending me a new pump should have it in a couple of days.
Now on the the ABS light.

[Jrork]

That rotten hose is exactly what I found on mine as well. The pump was running but that rubber hose was junk. Took some time to pick all the peices of what was left of it out of the tank when I opened it up.

[jdavidsmi]

The new pump is in and the tank reinstalled, replaced the hoses for the fill tube and vent also the hose for the vents on top of the tank. had to replace 4 of the 6 studs for mounting the pump. Once the old pump was out, I found the problem, the small rubber hose between the pump motor and the metal outlet tube had a split running from clamp to clamp. So the pump was doing its job but have the gas pumped was staying in the tank.

Holding a steady 31 PSI, it did drop some after setting over night but only 5 to 6 lbs.

Two new issues showed up when I turned the key on and the dash lights and gauges all do their thing, the fuel gauge goes up to full and the ABS light goes off and then comes back on. I only put about 20 gals of gas back in, so i will need to figure that out. and I have no clue for the ABS light.

Read on the Ford Forum that the ABS light is most likely a sensor on the rear axle or low fluid level.

[jdavidsmi]

After 5hrs of work, and the tank is still not out. PO had a bracket welded to the frame right at the bolts for the rear F53 frame support, and the bolts cannot be removed, guess I could grind them off.
So i decided to see if I could tilt the tank enough to slide it out under the frame support. Raining this morning, motor home setting in driveway, to large to get into garage. so I will resume after the rain stops.
have lots of pictures but cannot get to load. more research, something to do while i wait.

[Jrork]

Sorry to hear the problem. We have a 2000 Rexhall with the F53 chassis and our rig was doing the exact same thing. I had anticipated dropping the tank but the way the coach builder constructed our motorhome, they somewhat boxed in the bolts so I couldn't remove the tank hangers. Given that, I lifted the water tank and cut a hole in the bottom of the coach and swapped out the pump through that hole. It's worked fantastic ever since.

PS...yes, I replaced the fuel filter and swapped relays and all the other tips. A new pump fixed it right up. Good luck

[Dutch_12078]

It wasn't an F53 tank, but the concept may help. I once broke 4 out of 6 studs off while removing a fuel pump after dropping the tank. My fix was to cut and grind everything down smooth, and then drill and tap new holes just to the side of the originals, slightly rotating the pump. I threaded stainless steel machine screws into the holes from the inside, liberally coated with Loctite red, creating new studs. I used double nuts on the outside screw threads to snug them in place before installing the new pump and gasket. The replacement pump is still working fine about 10 years later.

[Dale_Traveling]

Maybe cut a hole in the floor and gaining access to the top of the tank from inside the coach? Considering the broken bolts are going to need replacing I would just keep going and drop the tank.

[rgatijnet1]

I am guessing that you may have to drop the tank and replace the broken studs with Rivnuts. Rivnuts are threaded inserts where you will use a bolt instead of the nuts on studs as before. Rivnuts are installed just like a pop rivet. I'm guessing that the studs were welded or pressed in to place.

[LVJ58]

You might want to have the fuel pump relay checked. Have you had a diagnostic check done for any trouble codes? Haven't read or heard of any fuel pump problems on that late model of a coach.

Best of luck and let us know the fix....

[Colo_Native]

my fuel pump went out on the old MH and it just died would not start or run. I agree maybe filter problem

[Valkyriebush]

Dang, the fuel pumps still inside the tank on an F-53 chassis? Pump failed on my 95 Pace arrow. F-53, symptoms sound similar.

[Home_Skillet]

There maybe enough room above the tank to remove the fuel pump without dropping the tank.