Genny oil

[T_bone1]

Is synthetic oil a good idea for my 5.5.kw generator?

[Sam_Spade]

dougrainer wrote:
Synthetic oil is great. BUT, Synthetic oil will go thru minor gaps in various seals that regular oil will not.

A Mobil engineer told me years ago

I know you are a pretty savvy guy, Doug but..........
How many years ago was that roughly ??

The seal problem goes ALL the way back to the first couple of years of synthetic production and had to do more with the seal conditioning additives than with the oil itself.

I am pretty sure that problem does NOT exist with today's current synthetic production.

[WILDEBILL308]

10forty2 wrote:
Mention oil and you'll get as many opinions as doorknobs get turns...... To the OP, you'll be fine using a good quality syn if that's what you want to do. I doubt in the long there will be any significant advantage, but it sure does ease the mind if one is convinced of it. For the record, I use syn oil in both the engine and the genset on the RV and syn in both my personal trucks, my company vehicle and my 1999 Harley. My preference......costs more for each oil change, but since I'm convinced of it, it makes my mind rest easier.

That said, I read an article several years ago about the differences in syn oil and dinosaur oil. It was regarding motorcycle engine heat. The oil temps typically measure 15-20 degrees cooler with the syn. BUT, it was related in the article that oil temps don't necessarily reflect internal engine heat. It was posed in the article that syn oils don't absorb heat as readily as dino oils and as such don't help dissipate the generated engine heat as well. I always assumed that since the syn was supposed to lubricate better, there was less heat generated. The article also stated that syn oils don't pickup and absorb the carbon generated from the combustion and heat process as well, and that's the reason why the syn oils look cleaner when you change them.

Most importantly to note is to change the filter. If that clogs up and doesn't let the oil circulate, you're in much worse shape.

Articles like that are how the continuing disinformation about Synthetic oil gets spread. Synthetic oil lubricates better and has better additive packages to hold the carbon and combustion by products in suspension till drained. You can't tell what is in suspension by looking at the used oil. The only way to tell what is in oil is to run it on a fluid spectrometer.
By the way I use to run a oil lab when I was in the AF.
Bill

[10forty2]

Mention oil and you'll get as many opinions as doorknobs get turns...... To the OP, you'll be fine using a good quality syn if that's what you want to do. I doubt in the long there will be any significant advantage, but it sure does ease the mind if one is convinced of it. For the record, I use syn oil in both the engine and the genset on the RV and syn in both my personal trucks, my company vehicle and my 1999 Harley. My preference......costs more for each oil change, but since I'm convinced of it, it makes my mind rest easier.

That said, I read an article several years ago about the differences in syn oil and dinosaur oil. It was regarding motorcycle engine heat. The oil temps typically measure 15-20 degrees cooler with the syn. BUT, it was related in the article that oil temps don't necessarily reflect internal engine heat. It was posed in the article that syn oils don't absorb heat as readily as dino oils and as such don't help dissipate the generated engine heat as well. I always assumed that since the syn was supposed to lubricate better, there was less heat generated. The article also stated that syn oils don't pickup and absorb the carbon generated from the combustion and heat process as well, and that's the reason why the syn oils look cleaner when you change them.

Most importantly to note is to change the filter. If that clogs up and doesn't let the oil circulate, you're in much worse shape.

[CharlesinGA]

With no catalytic converter to clog up, a generator is a good candidate for four stroke motorcycle oil with zinc. Amsoil sells several different oils that have zinc in them, and also sells a "small engine oil" designed for such things as generators, lawnmowers and such. Zinc is an excellent "lubricant" additive for oils, but it cannot be used in autos and trucks now due to the converters. In the past, it was found in almost all motor oils.

Charles

[usersmanual]

dougrainer wrote:
Synthetic oil is great. BUT, Synthetic oil will go thru minor gaps in various seals that regular oil will not. So, if you have an older engine and have no leaks or just a very minor leak, then start using Synthetic, you will have more leakage. A Mobil engineer told me years ago that it is best to start using Synthetic when the engine is new. NOT a good idea when an engine is used and broken in. Doug

disagree I rebuilt engines for a living and never saw where syn oil leaked easier than regular oil and changing a engine to syn after its used and broke in works just fine

[WILDEBILL308]

dougrainer wrote:
Synthetic oil is great. BUT, Synthetic oil will go thru minor gaps in various seals that regular oil will not. So, if you have an older engine and have no leaks or just a very minor leak, then start using Synthetic, you will have more leakage. A Mobil engineer told me years ago that it is best to start using Synthetic when the engine is new. NOT a good idea when an engine is used and broken in. Doug

This s another legend on the net (old wives tale) with no proof to back it up.You can switch at any time eather way at any milage.
The only possible problem is if you have excessive sludge the synthetic will clean it out if you have failing seals removing the sludge could open a existing leak path. The same would happen with commercial oil if the sludge was removed.
The only thing that would happen when using it in a older car with hi milage is the rate of wear would be reduced.
Bill

[Effy]

I use royal purple in my gen set. Sure it's expensive but it only takes 1.5 quarts. So I figure, why not?

[dougrainer]

Synthetic oil is great. BUT, Synthetic oil will go thru minor gaps in various seals that regular oil will not. So, if you have an older engine and have no leaks or just a very minor leak, then start using Synthetic, you will have more leakage. A Mobil engineer told me years ago that it is best to start using Synthetic when the engine is new. NOT a good idea when an engine is used and broken in. Doug

[Matt_Colie]

This is an interesting thread, but let me throw this in.

I run synthetic lube oils in all my aircooled small engine and the coach. There are two reasons:
1-Synthetics have better temperature resistance than conventional lubricating oils.
2-Synthetics are somewhat better at managing acid formation that is the result of combustion by-products.

In the coach, it is a nolo-contendere there, it is an older gas engine, its duty can be hard and service on expensive and a major PITA. Anything I can do to prolong its life has got to be evaluated.

In the little aircooled engines, they beat up their lube oil something fierce. I put a lot of hours on both the little tractors and the generator in the coach during a year (season). I do have hour meters on most, but it is just too much of a pain to schedule the service during the season, so I just use synthetic and keep the levels at the mark.

The plain old pass cars get regular shelf oils. Those engines aren't so stressed that I worry, and I live in Michigan where a car will frequently die of a corrosion issue before the engine wears out. Besides, I want then in the service bay a couple of times a year for a visual inspection to prevent on coming issues before they cost a lot of money.

I have been an engine professional most of my career. Much of that time was in engine testing and some of that was even specific lubrication testing. I wasn't always big on synthetics, but there were a couple of tests that we did that were real eye openers.

Matt

[WILDEBILL308]

usersmanual wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

George Beggs wrote:
It will not hurt
, but not necessary.

Truest statement !

There is very little difference in morn oils that met the latest API standard (SN). The biggest advantage of synthetic oil is easier starting in cold (below freezing) weather.

I was under the impression it with stood higher heats;; lasted longer and slightly better shear effect(better lubrication specs)

That is correct. All synthetic oil has a better additive package than conventional oil. While conventional oil has improved it is still not as good as a quality Synthetic oil.
Bill

[usersmanual]

theoldwizard1 wrote:

George Beggs wrote:
It will not hurt
, but not necessary.

Truest statement !

There is very little difference in morn oils that met the latest API standard (SN). The biggest advantage of synthetic oil is easier starting in cold (below freezing) weather.

I was under the impression it with stood higher heats;; lasted longer and slightly better shear effect(better lubrication specs)

[theoldwizard1]

George Beggs wrote:
It will not hurt
, but not necessary.

Truest statement !

There is very little difference in morn oils that met the latest API standard (SN). The biggest advantage of synthetic oil is easier starting in cold (below freezing) weather.

[usersmanual]

Bill.Satellite wrote:
No. Unless you have money you like to throw away.

LOL at this reply must be all of 16$ to fill a gen with synthetic oil

[Sandia_Man]

That's what I've always used in our Onan, I certainly wouldn't be RVing if I couldn't afford a couple quarts of synthetic oil for our genny. Of course it's not required by Onan, as maintenance costs go their Onan oil is not all that much cheaper than synthetic oil off the Walmart shelf.