There are some aftermarket monitor panels that are a little more accurate than the factory ones. Also most factory black water tank monitors have 4 or 5 screws into the plastic tank, then attach wires to those screws. Then they apply 12 volts to the lowest screw, and measure the voltage on the other screws. If they get back any voltage, then the 1/4, 1/2, 3.4 and full lights come on. Problem is that with the black water tank, any TP that goes into the tank can get stuck on the screws and conduct power from the bottom to top screw, so it will forever read 'full'. I have even drained my tank, then had a reading that the 1/4 was off, 1/2 on, 3/4 off and full light on!
New style systems use plates of conductive material that is glued to the outside of the tank, where no 'material' can stick to the pads.
Anyway good luck with your project!
Fred.
Money can't buy happiness but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a
Porsche or Country Coach!
If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!
I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.
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