Handling/steering.

[Jayco-noslide]

Frustrated with the way our 2003 30 ft. Class C; Ford E-450 chassis drives(65000 miles). We flat tow a Ford Focus. With little wind on a smooth highway I would rate it a C for the steering, handling feel. My Ford Focus and a 2007 Chevy half-ton I had would rate an A or B in comparison. On narrow winding roads or with a wind it would be an F. Dangerous and tiring. The MH wanders, requires constant steering input and feels like there's lots of play(moving the steering wheel with no response). I've tried having some sort of front shock devise added, and found the front wheels were poorly balanced and over inflated by 15 lbs. Seemed better at 1st but not really. Been advised it might be the long overhang behind rear axle. Don't know where to go for a solution. If the steering gear needs replaced, how much$$ ? I'm thinking nothing will do it until the slack/play is removed??
Also wondering how close to "normal" mine is? Must be thousands of these on the road. HELP.

[Harvard]

Yes, I think a change in caster is a logical explanation.

[camperdave]

Harvard wrote:


Here is my theory about 4.5 Degrees:

"If the final RV build is nose level then the runtime caster will be about +4.5 degrees. These units are probably indifferent."

Sounds about right. I sit about 1" high in back (over 30') and have ~32% of my weight on the front axle with plenty of extra capacity on both axles.

Related note, I also own a 1998 E350 van. It used to be my tow vehicle in our TT days. I've long noticed that it handles way better with a load. Empty it sits stink bug and is a bit squirrely. Load up a few motorcycles and/or put the trailer on the back and it squats down a few inches and tracks way better on the freeway. Bet it's the caster change, right?

[Harvard]

camperdave wrote:
I'm not the OP, but just tossing in my followup post. I got an alignment today and asked about the caster. Here are my before/after numbers, as you can see I was ok on caster already. Just a little tweak to the tow in, and they swapped the front tires left-right. The pull is gone, so I'm happy.

The tech did say he'd be happy to add in more caster if I wanted, but it would require a different bushing. So at least it seems like he knew what he was doing? Since I'm already almost at 5 degrees and it drives fine, I'm not messing.

Here is my theory about 4.5 Degrees:

"If the final RV build is nose level then the runtime caster will be about +4.5 degrees. These units are probably indifferent."

[camperdave]

I'm not the OP, but just tossing in my followup post. I got an alignment today and asked about the caster. Here are my before/after numbers, as you can see I was ok on caster already. Just a little tweak to the tow in, and they swapped the front tires left-right. The pull is gone, so I'm happy.



The tech did say he'd be happy to add in more caster if I wanted, but it would require a different bushing. So at least it seems like he knew what he was doing? Since I'm already almost at 5 degrees and it drives fine, I'm not messing.

[camperdave]

I'm heading in on Wednesday for an alignment on my 2004 E450 chassis (29 foot with no slides). I don't currently have any handling complaints, but it pulls to the right so I'm going to have it checked out before a big trip next week.

I'm not optimistic about getting them to set it to 5 degrees caster, but will ask. I had a difficult time finding someone local that would even do an alignment on a motorhome, no one seems to want to touch it. The shop doing the work does fleet maintenance for larger trucks, I'm hopeful they will know what they are doing. We'll see...

[dennyida]

Hi Jayco, I just wanted to see how you got along with your class c drop us a line and let us know.

[Sam_Spade]

CharlesinGA wrote:
The +5° caster settings will require a special aftermarket eccentric bushing. These are readily available from a number of companies. I think Moog carries them, not sure who else.

Yes. Forgot about that.

Any competent shop that is familiar with the problem should be able to get the part.

AND....this makes about 5 owners with previous experience suggesting that a "proper" alignment is the first thing to do.
If you add in the recommendations from previous threads, it might be close to 100 !!

I hope the person making the original post pays attention to this advice.

[CharlesinGA]

The +5° caster settings will require a special aftermarket eccentric bushing. These are readily available from a number of companies. I think Moog carries them, not sure who else.

Charles

[Road_Dog]

Ditto on the caster settings! At least 5 degrees positive when you get a front end alignment. The next thing you should do is get a track bar for the rear end also known as a Panhard bar. Do these first before you spend a bunch of money. I learned the hard way after owning 4 class C coaches. You can add shocks and other stuff later,but try this first. You will be amazed. Good luck!

[Cruisineasy]

You also might try changing the air pressure in the tires.
I have a 31' Jayco Greyhawk and pull a 2008 Ford Focus on a dolly. Did the same thing. I checked the tag on the drivers door. Recommended 80psi on the 4 rear tires and 75psi on the front. Made a world of difference and cost nothing..

[Harvard]

dennyida wrote:
Hi, I know exactly what you are going through. We had a 2005 granite ridge on a 450 chassis.I put new shocks , tires and had the front end aligned at a local shop and it was still a white knuckle experience to drive. I went on this forum and some good people gave me the camber and caster settings for the class c with the 450 chassis.My local shop would not set up the unit with the settings i was given so i found a truck alignment shop and they set the unit up with the new settings. The unit drove like a new car. The shop that did the work said they wish they had these settings before because there were a lot of people with class c units that have the same problem. I cant remember the settings now but i`m sure someone on this forum can tell you. Good luck

The secret to handling is in the Caster setting...about +5.5 on RH and +5.3 on LH. Even more is better....

Here is a link to our experience, circa 2010

[Sam_Spade]

Not wanting to beat a dead horse here BUT......

You can spend a butt load of time and money changing out parts but if you do not get it aligned to the proper modified specs it might all be a big waste.

Find the modified alignment specs on here and DO THAT FIRST.

[okiejoe]

I have a 31 ft class c and tow a toad, after purchasing it I added Hellwig heavy duty sway bars and got rid of those cheap factory sway bars then add a Safe T Plus Steering control and Bilstein Shocks. HUGE improvement. Just for fun added Sumo Springs to all four corners. Now I can drive it with one had and wind barely moves me. My coach is basically nail to the road.

[ron_dittmer]

A 2003 E450 has the poorly engineered and under-rated front stabilizer bar. The rear stabilizer bar is good but under-rated for the poster's particular application. Given his complaints, I advise to replace both front and rear bars with affordable heavy duty Helwig brand versions. They are fairly simple to install for a do-it-yourselfer.

New front & rear heavy duty stabilizer bars along with a front wheel alignment and the right tire pressure, all in combination will make a noticeable improvement. But I fear you will have to go yet another step and replace your shocks with heavy duty Bilsteins, and maybe adding a rear trac bar.

BUT first make sure your ball joints are not worn.