Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

[majordad]

Need help, 1800 miles from home, I have lost the 120 volt power on passenger side of my 2001 Fleetwood Discovery and the propane does not work to the heater or refrigerator. The other day I started the coach as the batteries were low and let it run for about 15 minutes. I also Reset the a/c out 1 and 2 on the inverter and when I checked the bathroom lights, they came on. I releveled the coach and shut off the engine. As it got dark, I turned on the heater and it was working fine. Came back later to put the boys to bed and heater was blowing cold, ignition failure on the hot water heater and again no lights in bathroom..
Any advice as to what is wrong, we need the heater going home as it will be colder.
Merrill

[4x4van]

rgatijnet1 wrote:

4x4van wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Salesman Switch
COMMON nomenclature used by MANY folks

Some folks just love to appear superior by denigrating others

In the 45 years I have been an RVer, along with 27 working in the industry, this forum is the only place I have encountered that term.

Just sayin’.

Same here; 31 years RVing (as well as RVing as a kid with my parents prior), I NEVER heard the term "salesman switch" till I I started frequenting RV forums (and I guarantee that there is NO RV that has it labeled as such). The fact that "salesmen" use the switch between showing customers an RV is completely coincidental vs AFTER the sale when that switch will be used for years thereafter to connect/disconnect the battery. It's not about denigrating anyone, it's about using the correct terminology. If people would stop referring to the battery disconnect switch (which it is) as a salesman switch (which it isn't), perhaps the incorrect nomenclature would die. :S

Since we are getting technical, the switch in question is not called a battery DISCONNECT switch, since it does not disconnect any batteries. On my Monaco it is labeled as a "Battery cut-off" switch. Battery cut-off switch
The battery DISCONNECT switches, which I have two, actually disconnect the chassis or the house batteries by turning the two big red knobs.

Really? OK, I'll play.

On YOURS, it is labeled a "Battery cut-off" (so just what is the definition of "cut-off"?);
On MINE, it is labeled "Aux Batt (on/off)";
On my last RV, it was indeed labeled "Battery Disconnect";
On the RV I owned before that one, I don't remember exactly how it was labeled (too many years have passed).

However, I can pretty well guarantee you that none are labeled "Salesman Switch", which was my point. Technical enough for you? :R

[RayChez]

So what was the main problem with power only to half of the coach? Was it the
RV park outlet that was wired wrong or was the problem on the coach? Not sure what wire he is talking about on the propane tank. The only wire I can think off is a wire to show the tank reading on the inside of the coach.

[rgatijnet1]

4x4van wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Salesman Switch
COMMON nomenclature used by MANY folks

Some folks just love to appear superior by denigrating others

In the 45 years I have been an RVer, along with 27 working in the industry, this forum is the only place I have encountered that term.

Just sayin’.

Same here; 31 years RVing (as well as RVing as a kid with my parents prior), I NEVER heard the term "salesman switch" till I I started frequenting RV forums (and I guarantee that there is NO RV that has it labeled as such). The fact that "salesmen" use the switch between showing customers an RV is completely coincidental vs AFTER the sale when that switch will be used for years thereafter to connect/disconnect the battery. It's not about denigrating anyone, it's about using the correct terminology. If people would stop referring to the battery disconnect switch (which it is) as a salesman switch (which it isn't), perhaps the incorrect nomenclature would die. :S

Since we are getting technical, the switch in question is not called a battery DISCONNECT switch, since it does not disconnect any batteries. On my Monaco it is labeled as a "Battery cut-off" switch. Battery cut-off switch
The battery DISCONNECT switches, which I have two, actually disconnect the chassis or the house batteries by turning the two big red knobs.

[4x4van]

Chris Bryant wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:


Salesman Switch
COMMON nomenclature used by MANY folks

Some folks just love to appear superior by denigrating others

In the 45 years I have been an RVer, along with 27 working in the industry, this forum is the only place I have encountered that term.

Just sayin’.

Same here; 31 years RVing (as well as RVing as a kid with my parents prior), I NEVER heard the term "salesman switch" till I I started frequenting RV forums (and I guarantee that there is NO RV that has it labeled as such). The fact that "salesmen" use the switch between showing customers an RV is completely coincidental vs AFTER the sale when that switch will be used for years thereafter to connect/disconnect the battery. It's not about denigrating anyone, it's about using the correct terminology. If people would stop referring to the battery disconnect switch (which it is) as a salesman switch (which it isn't), perhaps the incorrect nomenclature would die. :S

[Scottiemom]

In our case, it could be called the "would be scammers" switch. The one and only time our rig was towed in (serpentine belt), we spent the night in a motel. Upon returning to the garage in the morning, the service manager said, "Well, you have a lot MORE problems than that belt." You have NO POWER anywhere now. Nothing works, no lights, etc. DH asked, "Did one of your guys hit the 'salesman's switch"? NONE OF MY GUYS TOUCHED ANYTHING. YOUR COACH HAS A SERIOUS PROBLEM. At that point we were standing by the coach door and Terry reached around and flipped that switch. EVERYTHING powered up. Terry said, "Imagine that!" The service manager walked away. Once the belt was done and several other sales thingies were tried and failed, we left.

I have heard it called both. DH says the "salesman switch" was called that because on lots where folks are allowed to walk through coaches, they flip on lights, etc. Instead of sending a employee through every coach to flip off every switch that might be turned on, they hit the "battery disconnect" to shut everything off. . . hence the "salesman switch." Don't know if that is actually how it originated, but that's what we've always heard in northern Indiana, RV Capital of the World.

Dale

[olfarmer]

Yes, thanks for the update, it is always nice to hear how things worked out!

[olfarmer]

dougrainer wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Switch the 50 amp breaker on the RV park power pole. You may have lost just one leg of the input power. The salesman switch shuts off basic power inside the coach and sometimes gets bumped to the off position. Most are right near the front door.

They are NOT called Salesman switches. They are called Battery Disconnect Switches. Doug

I agree, I have never heard them called salesman switches until I got on this forum, I have always called them battery disconnect switches and I use mine to disconnect the batteries when the motor home is in storage.

[enblethen]

I am thinking it was not gauge, but solenoid propane valve wire.

[wa8yxm]

Ok you had the gage wire off on propane

Did you get propane all working? The gage wire should not bother it (Save for the empty indicator)

[CA_Traveler]

Thanks for the update.

[majordad]

Made it home safely, when I got to where we needed the heater, I found a wire hanging off the propane tank that apparently went to the gauge panel to tell me how full the tank is. Got home and plugged coach back in to my 110 plug and all seems to be working now. Will have to check the power connection next trip to Texas.

[time2roll]

majordad wrote:
Turning on the generator has given me back the missing power, so do you think the transfer switch is failing. We are in a rest area 150 miles from the New Mexico border and heading home.

I think it might be the 30/50 adapter. Check voltage on the main 50 amp breakers in the main panel. Post the results.

I have read about a propane detector that may cut off propane and may need power applied to get the propane moving. Check and post the battery voltage while you are poking around. If battery voltage is good check for 12 volt power at the 12v distribution panel to verify the stack of fuses are same as battery voltage.

[CA_Traveler]

CA Traveler wrote:
The cord plug is another likely candidate for failure.

The best way to know is to check the voltages and isolate the problem.

I'll amend that statement as it's second best.

The best solution is to use a EMS like the PI HW50C. With it's display you can check the incoming voltage, amps, etc.

But most important IMHO is that a open or partially open 50A neutral can/will cause high smoke letting out damage to the electrical devices. The HW50C checks and doesn't connect and checks and disconnects when a problem is detected.

Every 50A RV should have one. I also had one experience with 160V on a 30A pedestal that occurred at night. RV power was shut off and I ran to the pedestal to unplug.

[Executive45]

Stop by a CG and plug in. Unless you're unlucky enough to find two pedestals that are bad, you'll know if the issue is in your rig or your friends pedestal. In answer to your question, yes, transfer switches can go bad although rarely. Easy to check but you have to know what you're doing...Dennis