How do you level a motorhome front to back?

[coolmom42]

How do you level a class C from front to back, if you don't have automatic levelers? This would be necessary at a lot of sites.

(I understand side-to-side levelling with blocks under the tires as needed.)

[pnichols]

Drew ... right you are regarding deploying only in pairs!!!

(I probably should have drank another cup of coffee before I posted. 🙂 )

[DrewE]

pnichols wrote:

Jim Shoe wrote:
One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.

Deploying only in pairs?

Hmmm .... we have to level our Class C a lot using by raising one end at the same time as one side. We have to do this on canted camping surfaces. We have found that rarely is a site only low on one end of the the RV or low on one side of the RV. No twisting of the RV's frame results from having to raise at three points because the frame of course winds up level.

I would think that an automatic leveling system would do whatever it had to do with up to three of it's jacks on three corners in order for the coach floor to become level on canted surfaces. In fact, on canted surfaces lifting with only one pair would cause the frame to have to be twisted due to one corner not being in a plane with the others.

I believe what is actually meant is that they adjust only in pairs (once contact is made with the ground). Leveling diagonally merely requires doing two successive operations, side-to-side and front-to-back (or vice-versa). The systems don't let you raise or lower just one corner independently of all the other jacks to avoid torquing the frame excessively.

[pnichols]

Jim Shoe wrote:
One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.

Deploying only in pairs?

Hmmm .... we have to level our Class C a lot using by raising one end at the same time as one side. We have to do this on canted camping surfaces. We have found that rarely is a site only low on one end of the the RV or low on one side of the RV. No twisting of the RV's frame results from having to raise at three points because the frame of course winds up level.

I would think that an automatic leveling system would do whatever it had to do with up to three of it's jacks on three corners in order for the coach floor to become level on canted surfaces. In fact, on canted surfaces lifting with only one pair would cause the frame to have to be twisted due to one corner not being in a plane with the others.

[Jim_Shoe]

One of the best things I added to my Fleetwood E-450 'C' was HWH kick down jacks. They deploy in pairs, front or back two, or left or right two. A display is mounted over the dog house showing which button to push until the light goes out. When they're all out, I'm level. Not cheap, but worth every penny when its pouring rain outside, and deploying in pairs keeps the frame from twisting.
The 'C' came standard with a walk around short Queen platform bed. I bought a better mattress after the first road trip. MUCH better.
Finally, I removed the so called mattress over the cab, lined it with rolls of the "sticky" stuff and plastic containers to keep things I don't use that often from bouncing off my head. Made plenty of room in the outside rear storage areas. Especially after I removed the entire set of metric tools that I bought. No metric bolts, you know. With the extra rear space I added another 30A electric cord, another stinky slinky, and another water hose. Haven't needed them often, but when you're one foot short...

[tenbear]

pnichols wrote:
Often we don't want the RV level. We may want the rear to end up slightly high for better sleeping.

I raised the head of the bed so when the RV is level, the head is higher than the foot of the bed. Easier than raising the rear on a level site.

[Healeyman]

coolmom42 wrote:
How do you level a class C from front to back...?

Front to back and side to side at the same time.



Tim

[pnichols]

We use stepped blocks that I made from 2X6's. I put handles on the sides so I can pull them out easily when breaking camp.

Yes ... leveling only front to back is the same as leveling only side to side. Now for the real challenge - having to do both at the same time to get level ... lifting the front or the back along with having to lift one whole side of the RV. I call this "3-point" leveling because lifting three of the four corners of the RV is required.

For whenever we might have to deal with this with our Class C, we carry along 5 step blocks plus some additional short pieces of 2x6's. 5 step blocks are required for the worst case 3-point situation of 4 step blocks (plus a piece of 2X6) for raising the four rear tires and 1 step block (plus a piece of 2X6) for raising one of the front tires. If we can't get level in the above situations, we are at the wrong campsite and have to move on ... which does happen at times.

Often we don't want the RV level. We may want the rear to end up slightly high for better sleeping.

[tenbear]

After you have leveled your MH a few times you will learn how many blocks are required to raise each wheel, say an inch, or whatever your gauge is calibrated in. Just put the required number of blocks in place and drive up on them.

[DrewE]

coolmom42 wrote:
OK so same as side to side only more work. Blech. LOL.

I'm not sure exactly how it's more work than leveling side to side. It's precisely the same work. Even leveling in both axes simultaneously (as is sometimes needed) is not really much work, just a few more ramps or blocks to fetch and put out.

If you're parking next to DrewE's garage, where I store my RV, it does take a pretty fair collection of ramps or whatever to get completely level. This is particularly true if parking facing the backyard rather than facing the driveway. Most campgrounds are a good bit more even.

[coolmom42]

OK so same as side to side only more work. Blech. LOL.

[navegator]

I have a couple of levelers like the Anderson only made of aluminum, they do not work on sand they just dig in for sand I use 2x6 strepped platforms.

navegator

[gotsmart]

Also it is recommended that when putting leveling blocks under dual tires - like the rear tires on a Class C - that you put leveling blocks (wood, plastic, or whatever) under both tires. Both tires should be supported, not just one or the other.

[gkainz]

leveling side to side you put blocks under the low wheels. Leveling front to back is exactly the same process - blocks under the low wheels. Easier if the front is low (fewer blocks) but no difference in the process.

[DrewE]

x3 using ramps/blocks under the wheels. If the site is well out of kilter front to back, it can take a few layers to get the necessary height since the lever arm is a good bit longer vs. side to side.

[rexlion]

Blocks. They make plastic blocks that stack on each other, but for years I've used just wood blocks consisting of 2x4 pieces about a foot long or so. Very affordable. However, a year ago I got one of these tapered blocks, and they are convenient! Andersen leveler