โAug-15-2004 01:22 AM
โJul-31-2007 10:07 PM
โJul-31-2007 09:49 PM
mkpj1 wrote:
Here me out guys,
I know the rims are different but is the actual hub assembly different? I'm sorry but I'm a old ford rebuilder (No Flames please) and I took the front end out of a 73 F100 to put in my my 68 that had drums. I did it for the disc brakes, power brakes, and power steering. It was bolt on, 4 bolts! I got the parts for next to nothing. I am sure that Chrysler is the same as it is much cheaper. Is the lug set up different on the hub?
Ken
โJul-31-2007 07:34 PM
eyeteeth wrote:
Wow... a lot of posts about something I couldn't even ready about... ๐
The family just returned from a 1300 miles round trip to pick up our new old Dodge.
I really wish the unit matched the description a bit better. On a positive note... it did make it 650+ miles back home in 90+ heat. But it will need much more work then I'd expected. The previous owner was at least very helpful, and even apologetic. (It's a unit that hasn't realy seen any use in the last 2 years) There are some things he says he's willing to work out, so final judgment and details will be delayed. In the meantime, plenty of questions will be forthcoming...
So for the details. It's a 24ft '79 Dodge Holiday Ramblette. Previous owner said it was a 360, but I happened upon some 440 parts tucked in a corner this evening? So I'm not 100% sure anymore. It has a cab over, sofa, two captians chairs in the living quaters, and the nice big seats with arm rests in the cab. Stand up shower/half tub, and the all important (for me anyway) bunk beds in the back. It also has a real solid, heavy duty bumper and trailer which which will come in very handy taking the karts to the race track. Roof AC, but no Generator. Seperate Black and Grey Tanks. That about covers it.
The Previous owner was kind enough to let up "camp" in his driveway overnight before going through all the formalities. He was kind enough to go through the trouble of freshly coating the roof before we arrived. Which was proabably a very good thing as we arrived during flash flood storm warnings. The unit was "almost" sealed tight. ๐ There was supposed to be water damage in only one spot due to having left a window slightly open once... but we happened upon several areas that will need attention. I won't get into it all yet. But, apart from the "known" area... nothing else came in. All the other areas I would classify as "previous" and has been fixed. There was enough rain... if there was apossibility of getting in, it would have found the way.
I'll have pictures posted soon. But first... a few questions. First thing we need to do, is make the unit a little more "drive" friendly. The carpet in the cab is some old spare carpet taken out of a house... not fastened down at all. But, the area is not sealed from the engine compartment. Peeling it back, I found a couple grommets or seals that were missing. So, as the engine worked pretty hard to bring us home in 90+ heat and 90%+ humidity, all that engine heat was trying to cook my wife and I in the cab. In addition to replacing those seals, what else can I do to cut down the heat exchange from the engine to the Cab? Then... my second question for now. The engine never really overheated, but the dog house did become rather warm to the touch... I hope I'm not about to unleash a highly debateable topic... but what have some of ya'll done to get these to run a little cooler? It was fine first thing in the morning, and later in the evening, but through the heat of the day, It seemed the cooling system just couldn't keep up.
Thanks a bunch, and I'll get a few pictures once I do a little cleaning. ๐
โJul-31-2007 07:15 PM
โJul-31-2007 06:59 PM
โJul-31-2007 05:32 PM
โJul-31-2007 04:41 PM
โJul-31-2007 03:46 PM
โJul-31-2007 08:41 AM
Leeann wrote:79powerwagon wrote:
I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...
Eric
We had one spare mounted on the spare tire thing on the back, but wanted to carry 2. So the bf took threaded rod large enough, cut it to length, used large washers and bolted it to the spare that was bolted to the carrier, sticking out. Then put the second spare on that and used more large washers and nuts.
It's pretty secure. Gone on 2 150+ mile trips without loosening (yes, we do check).
โJul-31-2007 08:35 AM
โJul-31-2007 08:29 AM
79powerwagon wrote:
I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...
Eric
โJul-31-2007 08:27 AM
MasterBoondocker wrote:
I ask you Leeann ...why do you come after me on this -- when it was very clear that the other-guy was so wrong - on so many other TECH and real-world FACTS ?
โJul-31-2007 06:33 AM
79powerwagon wrote:
Thanks for the info Leeann! I'll get a set on order and start whacking away!
Ken, the intake and carb I'm waiting on is an oem set-up with a quadra-bog carb, it all should fit neatly under the dog house.
I had the Eddy performer intake and 600cfm on my PW, and with the right engine bits, that sucker had TONS of power! Ran pretty good in the 1/4 mile, too! :B
I understand what the Doc is trying to accomplish (sorry folks, I mean MBD. I know him as Doc from another life), and I think his experiment, whether it's successful or not, is a valid one. I just don't know anything about the 413 truck engines AT ALL. The 440 I know, but like Ken said, mine's built for speed and drivability. This is in my 1966 Dodge Charger.
And to step back to the flavor of this original thread, now that I have brakes, I just ordered a set of 16x6 wheels for the Tioga! WOO-HOO! No more searching for 16.5 tires!!!!!!!
I still need to figure out where exactly to carry 2 spares though...
Eric
โJul-31-2007 06:29 AM
MasterBoondocker wrote:Big_John wrote:
That range of 800 to 4500rpm is where the stock 440 shines. I don't think anyone will disagree with that. It was never meant as a high RPM engine. Again, in my application, I do very little sustained speed highway driving and I see a lot of different RPM ranges.
My comments are really aimed at a small valve 413 head on a 440 engine. The 413 is a good piece, all the way around, just as the 440 is.
Try it? yes... exactly that. Bolt the heads on and head down the highway. Flow benches, dynos, whatever... will tell you a lot, but until the rubber hits the road, its only theory and a bunch of data points. FUN (note word "FUN") to talk about on forums such as these and interesting when someone actually gets their hands dirty and reports back.
Comments, thoughts and OPINIONS is what this forum is all about. But I must take-issue with info that is posted as TECH and a FACT - and that is flat-out wrong. Sorry -- that is just me.
The range of the 413 is just a tad short of what you claim for the 440. But WHERE do you run your 440 at 4500 rpm for any extended period of time? Would you not agree that 2500-3000 is where most-of-us run these motors?
The valve sizes are too small on the 413 ? ...... why then would the aftermarket head builders for race-stuff only build most of their heads with a 1.81 exh valve? .... and this is to be put on a motor that is very near 500 cubic inches and rpmed UP to 7000 commonly ?
My hands have-been-dirty and will be getting more-so with this project. My main object is to get the best fuel-econ as possible.
โJul-31-2007 05:20 AM