How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Leeann]

eye, make sure you get the mild (aka RV) grind cam. Definite yes on the vacuum gauge - we get more than 1 mpg better by watching the gauge. Go with replacement manifolds (I got mine on eBay pretty cheap - and they look a TON better than the original).

Our rig was made into a true dual setup with minimalist mufflers when we got it. It was so noisy in the back, the poor kid had to wear hearing protection. We added a crossover pipe (made a noise difference but made a power/mpg difference, too) and then bought 2 Caddy mufflers from a junkyard and put them on in place - no power difference at all, but a definite noise difference. The kid can sit in the back without hearing protection now - she even fell asleep on the way back from NC.

I'm pretty sure ours is 2" diameter exhaust pipe. Goes up to 2.25" for the crossover, then back down to 2" behind. Which actually adds in a nice resonator pre-muffler.

What carb is on there now? When's the last time it was rebuilt/tuned? You'll see a difference if you get that dialed in. Also, take off the intake manifold and clean the heck out of it. Exhaust usually plugs up the ports, so cleaning it out will show a difference, too.

Since you're going to have the engine out anyway, clean out the coolant passages as much as possible, too.

[eyeteeth]

Thanks... although that's probably going to be more than I can afford right now. Although, I could always do the intake, and carb later as they're outside the motor. Any part numbers? We figure we'd be replacing the cam anyway so that's very realistic at this time.

Headers... I really don't care about. Just that they used to be mentioned all the time a while back so I threw it out there. If I can get better mileage with with stock manifolds... that's just fine with me.

I pull small trailers for my race stuff and eventually a boat, but either way, I keep it between 60-65 even on the freeways. (70 limit here... everyone else 75-80) I don't think I've gotten over 9 mpg with it as it was. I'd like to get into double digits. 🙂

Thanks for the ideas.

[79powerwagon]

Eye, all new bearings and seals (and gaskets), get the small Summit Racing cam and roller chain kit, 4v intake (if you don't have one already), 4v carb (if you don't have one already, look at a spread-bore), and as long as you're placing your Summit order, a vacuum gauge. When the engine is all back together, tune it to death (or life, actually), and you'll see the best performance/economy that you'll be capable of.

You are going to hate headers, but if you must, DON'T wrap them in heat tape, and DO use Stage 8 brand locking header bolts. Build your exhaust true duals, no more than 2.25" diameter, as free-flowing as you can legally get away with (Cherry Bombs, baby!!!! ).

The trick is to modify your engine for low speed torque, NOT high speed horse power.

And learn to drive watching the vacuum gauge, trying to keep the reading at the highest number you can muster. High vacuum=low fuel usage. :B

[eyeteeth]

I did the prep work yesterday... down to removing the carb, fuel line, and a bolt... then we're pulling the engine. We're 90% sure there's at least one bad cam bearing.

So, while it's out. I'm looking for suggestions of things to do to the engine. I'd love to get better mileage. The down side... I've been out of work since October and funds are short. But, throw out some ideas, and if I can swing it, I'll do it.

I already have to replace one of the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if I want to go to headers or not. If I don't, I can just bolt new manifolds and exhaust in place... Going to headers would of course increase the cost beyond just the headers.

But throw some ideas my way.

[Trish_Davis]

goreds2 wrote:
I am wondering if I would need a special type of paint for the stripes. (not sure what kind of material it is)

I would probably go with a foam type brush. I am sure if I peeled off a small portion of the stripe, a paint store could help me with the type of paint needed.

The stripes on the cab are vinyl. Take them off with a heat gun.
Nope, hair dryer is not hot enough. Ask me how I know this.

Auto body supply store is what you need to buy new stripes.

How to get them off the coach is a good question.
Its body is not stout metal like the cab, try the blow-dryer there.

NO to the foam brush idea.

[goreds2]

Leeann wrote:
I'd imagine you'd do it the way you'd do any other paint job....prep the surface really well, tape off the stripe and have at it.

I am wondering if I would need a special type of paint for the stripes. (not sure what kind of material it is)

I would probably go with a foam type brush. I am sure if I peeled off a small portion of the stripe, a paint store could help me with the type of paint needed.

[Leeann]

I'd imagine you'd do it the way you'd do any other paint job....prep the surface really well, tape off the stripe and have at it.

[goreds2]

Does anyone one know if it is possible to paint over the stripes of these older motor homes? I am thinking about changing the colors to scarlet and gray (Go Bucks) but do not want it to look like a botch job. Thanks,

[Trish_Davis]

But this one is really cool.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/rvs/1277747099.html


Why oh why did I buy the Travco before the RV glut...

[Leeann]

Trish Davis wrote:
Mark--

I like this, it sure looks taken care of. If I didnt' have the "T" I'd buy it.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/1276810058.html

Yep, that's the Titan version of our rig (Champion made Titan and Concord), just 4' longer. And it still has an awning...I'm jealous 😉

[Leeann]

Jer&Ger wrote:
Leeann, is that Loadflite tranny the same as the 727? Thanks....Jerry

Yes, The 727 in cars and regular pickup trucks is the Torqueflite. The 727 put into motor home chassis and medium-duty trucks is the Loadflite. It's essentially the same, with a few heavier-duty parts.

[Trish_Davis]

Mark--

I like this, it sure looks taken care of. If I didnt' have the "T" I'd buy it.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/rvs/1276810058.html

Also a good reason to stop and visit.
Take the train, I'll come and get you from the station. Better yet, both of you.

[Trish_Davis]

Jer&Ger wrote:
Leeann, is that Loadflite tranny the same as the 727? Thanks....Jerry

Yep. It's a 727 Loadflyte. "727" in shorthand, ;0)

[Jer_Ger]

Leeann, is that Loadflite tranny the same as the 727? Thanks....Jerry

[Leeann]

Oh, to adjust the bands:





Specs are to back off 2 turns for both bands.