How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[eyeteeth]

The carb was just rebuilt, but I figure its flooding from the bad choke spring.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

eyeteeth wrote:

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Step 1 - Are you getting fuel? (Is the carburetor feeding the engine?)

Step 2 - Are you getting spark?

1 - I can smell it.

2 - Haven't been able to check yet. I've been working inside time windows...

Sorry, I got it backwards ... forgot something Horace Tuck taught me almost 40 years ago: "Ignition first, fuel second."

If you can smell fuel, there's a chance it's flooding, probably from a stuck carburetor float.

In any case, check the ignition ... if you need good, properly timed spark first.

[eyeteeth]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Step 1 - Are you getting fuel? (Is the carburetor feeding the engine?)

Step 2 - Are you getting spark?

1 - I can smell it.

2 - Haven't been able to check yet. I've been working inside time windows...

[ALnCORY]

Sorry to hear that Eyeteeth.... I fired mine up and went for a short drive on saturday. Everything seemed to work fine... getting itchy to get out and do some camping....

[Griff_in_Fairba]

eyeteeth wrote:
arrrrrgh....

Well... over the weekend, I went to pick up the RV so I could do some more remodeling this spring before racing season starts. I also plan on replacing the shocks, and I need to fix the choke spring. It's currently out at a friends, and it gets very soupy at his place in the spring. So I went out early in the morning while everything was still frozen.

I had been starting it about once a month, and letting it run for a bit. When I got there, she fired right up. I let it warm up a bit, then got it out of it's place. It had already sunk into the ground a bit. I got it semi stuck at one point, but was able to get it onto the frozen road. At that point I took one quick walk around to make sure everything was up, and nothing was dangling. I hopped into the driver seat, applied the seat belt, put it into drive... and it stalled.

Hasn't fired since.

I'm stumped for the time being.

Step 1 - Are you getting fuel? (Is the carburetor feeding the engine?)

Step 2 - Are you getting spark?

[eyeteeth]

arrrrrgh....

Well... over the weekend, I went to pick up the RV so I could do some more remodeling this spring before racing season starts. I also plan on replacing the shocks, and I need to fix the choke spring. It's currently out at a friends, and it gets very soupy at his place in the spring. So I went out early in the morning while everything was still frozen.

I had been starting it about once a month, and letting it run for a bit. When I got there, she fired right up. I let it warm up a bit, then got it out of it's place. It had already sunk into the ground a bit. I got it semi stuck at one point, but was able to get it onto the frozen road. At that point I took one quick walk around to make sure everything was up, and nothing was dangling. I hopped into the driver seat, applied the seat belt, put it into drive... and it stalled.

Hasn't fired since.

I'm stumped for the time being.

[ALnCORY]

Thats true, they are pretty funky units.... nothing quite like the old dodge mohomes.... I know that Ford 460 is a gas hog but of all the vehicles I have owned over the last 40 plus years, the mopar vehicles and Ford trucks have been the best. They have always run the longest with the least amount of trouble. I plan on getting a bigger class A one day for more extensive trips but I plan on keeping the old dodge around for short campouts and take the grandkids fishin' etc. Congrats again it looks great.

[overdrive75]

Thanks, but I do miss the Character of the old dodge.

[ALnCORY]

very nice looking rig there Overdrive.....

[overdrive75]

Well I promised a pic of the Dodge' replacement a while ago, well here they are.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

ALnCORY wrote:
Thanks Griff,
That was exactly what I was needing to know. I don't have a problem now but was trying to be more prepared in the future. I will try to locate my resistor and then go find a spare to have on hand in case of a problem on the road. From my reading you all seem to think a spare is a good idea, so I just assumed it is a problem from time to time.
thanks again,
A.

I forgot to mention: If your parts store can't find a listing for your motorhome, ask for parts for the a B300 van in the same year and engine as your motorhome. Most of the engine, drivetrain, and chassis parts are the same as on the Class C motorhomes.

Yes, it's not a big thing but can be a real PITA is you don't have a spare with you. Swapping one out only involves two or four wires and a bolt/screw and is less of a hassle than changing a headlight. If you don't have a spare, it involves a taxi ride or a long walk (and a wait for the parts store to open) if your ballast resistor fails.

[ALnCORY]

Thanks Griff,
That was exactly what I was needing to know. I don't have a problem now but was trying to be more prepared in the future. I will try to locate my resistor and then go find a spare to have on hand in case of a problem on the road. From my reading you all seem to think a spare is a good idea, so I just assumed it is a problem from time to time.
thanks again,
A.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

DeadeyeLefty wrote:

ALnCORY wrote:
On the vapor lock question,,, was that more of a problem with the 440's or do the 360's have the same tendancy... I haven't run my 360 up any big grades in the summer but plan to this year.

I'm interested in this question myself...I might be getting another '77 in the spring and it's got a 360.
I didn't drive the last one (RIP) enough to find out.

Unless you're experiencing trouble, I wouldn't go looking for problems that might not exist.

You're more likely to experience problems due to bad fuel, partially plugged fuel filter, or dirty carburetor.

My 1977 B200 van, with a 318 engine, was purchased in northern Minnesota, driven for several years in southern Illinois and then for several more years in Alaska. In 7-1/2 years and 180,000+ miles, through 100 degree summer and -40 degree winter temperatures, I never experienced any problems with vapor lock.

I did have to rebuild the carburetor several times due to the seals going bad. I later found out this was because I was adding Heet to the gas at least every other fill-up and the excess Heet was eating up the carburetor seals. (This seems to be a problem with the standard two-barrel Carter BBD carburetors because I've seen other cases, including my 1970 Class A motorhome.)

[Griff_in_Fairba]

ALnCORY wrote:
OK, throw back to an old subject.. ballast resistors. I have read how we should always have an extra one for these old dodges, my question is: where is it located, how do I know it has failed, and when I go to my local NAPA store and ask the 25 yr old behind the counter for one... how can I be sure he will give me the right one for my 1974 with a 360. I think this has been discussed in the past but my search didn't bring up all the answers I was looking for. I replaced my plugs, wires, cap and rotor and it runs smooth and starts easy. Just wondering what I might have missed.
thanks,
A.

Here's what they look like:







The first two images are the two-wire type and the third is the four-wire type. (Images from "Prettykitty's 'new' motorhome" thread.)

It sounds like the ballast resistor is NOT your problem. Ballast resistors tend to be "all or nothing" devices ... they either work fine or fail completely.

If I recall correctly, the ballast resistor on my 1977 B200 van was located on the driver's side of the firewall under the hood. Class C motorhomes used the same cab as the B-series vans so I'd look there first. (On Class A motorhomes, the ballast resistor could be located under the dash or just about anywhere under the dog house.)

During normal operation (ignition key in the RUN/IGN position), ballast resistors reduce the voltage to the coil which, in turn, reduces the voltage the coil sends to the distributor and spark plugs. This saves wear and tear on the rotor, distributor cap, plug wires, and spark plugs.

The starting circuit (ignition key in the START position) bypasses the ballast resistor to provide more voltage to the coil, yielding a hotter spark to help with starting.

As a result, if the ballast resistor is bad, the engine will start and run as long as the key is held in the start position because the circuit is bypassing the ballast resistor. Then, when the key is released to the run position, the engine promptly dies because the broken ballast resistor is preventing current from getting to the coil.

I have not heard of ballast resistors causing any other problems or symptoms.

[ALnCORY]

OK, throw back to an old subject.. ballast resistors. I have read how we should always have an extra one for these old dodges, my question is: where is it located, how do I know it has failed, and when I go to my local NAPA store and ask the 25 yr old behind the counter for one... how can I be sure he will give me the right one for my 1974 with a 360. I think this has been discussed in the past but my search didn't bring up all the answers I was looking for. I replaced my plugs, wires, cap and rotor and it runs smooth and starts easy. Just wondering what I might have missed.
thanks,
A.