How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Leeann]

eyeteeth wrote:
There was talk at one point about consolidating all the information to a web site. did that ever happen?

My trials and tribulations - more info spread elsewhere.

[Leeann]

As far as I remember from decks, PT wood has to be sealed like any other wood for water resistance - but it can't be sealed right away thanks to the treating.

That, however, is the older stuff. I have no idea about the new stuff...

[ALnCORY]

I agree that keeping water out is the plan, and yes some of mine was almost totally gone and other looked almost new... so keeping it dry is the key. I don;t know if the PT stuff will make much difference but I had some left over from another project so I used it. My thinking was that if some water gets in before I notice, that it might not be as damaging... Has any one else done this? or seen any evidence that it helps?

[eyeteeth]

Yea... I'd thought about it. not sure it's really worth the expense though. The idea is to keep the water out to begin with. The PT stuff is cut differently, and still needs to dry out for month before you should do anything with it. There's framework in the unit that still looks brand new. Just need to keep it dry. The rot in the bunk area is from 1) the awning was supposedly blown off in a storm but the PO didn't seal any of the holes left afterwards, and 2) the putty sealing the bunk windows dried out and they were never caulked. The same wood on the opposite side of the RV behind the shower look pretty darn good. I think just sealing it back up properly will go a long way to making the repair last.

The Pressure treating really doesn't penetrate the wood though, so anywhere you drill into it, put a screw or staple, or cut it, becomes just as vulnerable as any other piece of wood.

I might still use some for the floor studs.

[Leeann]

eyeteeth wrote:
OMG!!! you read minds! lol. That's the thought process I'm in right now.

Really though, it's "not bad" all things considered.

Sometimes it works :W

No, it really isn't that bad, considering.


We're just lucky our Concord is framed in steel, not lumber. Or we would have had more damage than you have to repair.

[ALnCORY]

Eyeteeth, just a thought, I used presser treated lumber to replace some of the damage in my overhead... I thought it might less suseptable to water damage in the future... I just ripped it to fit the need..

[eyeteeth]

Leeann wrote:
Wow, what a mess! :S

Just think, though - you'll have one heckuva nice, strong unit when you're done (have to think that when you're in the middle of an expanding project).

OMG!!! you read minds! lol. That's the thought process I'm in right now.

Really though, it's "not bad" all things considered. The way the unit is constructed... I think I can back most of the screws out fromo the outside without have to remove much of the exterior as the the bad stuff is mostly below the knee. There's a few 2x2's I plan on using one of the wood rot repair epoxy's on, refraining the lower bunk windows... 2 2x2's along the bass of the bunk area wall, 2 more along the base in the very back of the unit, then the two boards under the headlights, the one above, and the 2x4 above. Apply the same repair stuff to the 2x2 in the shower corner, and then replace or add to a few of the floor studs and that's about it. I'm thankful I don't have the replace all the framing back there... which would be common and typical. It's still a lot of work, but it should all be good in the end.

[Leeann]

Wow, what a mess! :S

Just think, though - you'll have one heckuva nice, strong unit when you're done (have to think that when you're in the middle of an expanding project).

[ALnCORY]

nice documentation eyeteeth... can't wait to see the finished product.

[eyeteeth]

Ya know... I was thinking... at 240+ pages... we really need an index back at the beginning. I know we talked about ways to improve mileage... but have no idea what page it was anymore. Or where to find different parts... repairs... it here. "just a few pages back" 🙂

There was talk at one point about consolidating all the information to a web site. did that ever happen?

Moving on...

Here's a few updated pics of the progress. I'm thinking I'll peel off the very bottom of the siding to replace the bottom 2x2s. The rest I think I can do from the inside. Some of the wood is discolored, but still fairly solid. I'm thinking about trying the CPES stuff on that. I know I'm doing a much more thorough repair than a shop would have. My friend keeps saying, "I would just..." and I keep thinking "yea but". Its taking longer, but it's far cheaper and I'll have some satisfaction in the end.


You can see where much of the bass boards, and floor studs have completely rotted away in this one.

Same in this one. That 2x12 is what the spare tire attaches too. dragging your finger across it turns it to splinters. how the tire hasn't fallen off going down the road escapes me.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Click, new idea ... (no need to duck and hide ... this one's fairly normal.)

Maybe we should start a list, just for these old Dodge motorhomes, of spare parts everyone should carry. Say maybe a list of things that would fit in a large tackle box.

I know ballast resistor is near the top of my list. Those windshield wiper bushings would be another good item.

If you want, email me suggestions and I'll try compiling it.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Kendas wrote:
And you found the new bushings where?

Both NAPA and PartsAmerica affiliates (Checker, Schuck's, Kragen, etc.) carry these kind of things. The key is getting a counterperson who doesn't have to have a keyboard to find stuff. (If your counterperson needs year, make, and model to find a 1/4" x 1-1/2" bolt, go elsewhere.)

One brand, often on a display rack on the sales floor, is Motormite/Dorman. Supposedly, they just revamped their website to make it easier to find unusual and unique parts. (Haven't tried it yet so I don't know how good it is.) I know I've found a lot of odds-n-ends parts from them for fixing up older cars and trucks, things I thought I'd never find outside a junkyard.

It helps, when you go to the parts store, if you bring the part -- or at least the pieces -- with you. (I've given up telling them 1969 Dodge M300 ... instead, I just say, "Do you have one of these?")

[Kendas]

D&Sluv2fishandcampMN wrote:
...I just wanted to let you all in on something that I discovered with my old MH. You might want to check the little plastic bushings that hold the windshield wiper linkage together. Mine have fallen apart twice and left me with a difficult drive in the rain with no wipers! After the second time this happened I finally got wise and fixed them all so hopefully this never happens again.

And you found the new bushings where? I "stole" (with owners permission) an old set from a '76 that was rotting at a camp ground in the White mountains and hope they last. Be nice to have an "extra" set when this set "goes way"

[Griff_in_Fairba]

Quick hint: If one of your front tires goes flat, pull one of the duals from the rear and put it on the front. Then, drive very slow to the nearest repair shop. The extra weigh will put a lot of stress on the remaining single tire on the rear. Fast driving and extended distance will make it worse. Going slow and taking breaks should allow you to get to a repair shop without too much wear and tear on the single tire.

Also, be extremely careful changing the tire ... jacking up one of these beasts ain't like jacking up the family sedan. (A little bit of wind can shake one enough to knock it off the jack.)

Personally, I like the idea of calling road service in this situation.

[Trish_Davis]

Eyeteeth, you're killing me... I am so far behind you.
Why not get a whatzit hot water thing? I got one for 60 off ebay that won't work in the Travco. Lemme know... it screws onto the shower head and my shower head, if that's what you want to call it, is not fixed.

Mastercrafts, Leeann. Got a decent deal on 4 rr's, pretty aggressive tread. Yeah, I plan on going weird places. Buying 3 steering tires.