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Leveling a Class C?

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
If the rear of a Class C needs to be raised to level up when parked, is it necessary to raise all the wheels? Or is it adequate to get 1 tire on each side to the right level?

So far all my sites have been very close to level, but that won't last, for sure.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board
48 REPLIES 48

ctim
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 25 foot 22E. We've been pretty lucky for the most part, not to have had a problem with not having level sites. When we've needed to level, we use the yellow blocks, under both back wheels. I just assumed you needed them under both wheels. Has worked well.

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have Air Lift 5,000# air bags on the rear of my 24' Class C. I added them to deal with the extra tongue weight of my single axle cargo trailer . When loaded to 2,600# {which is about as heavy as I ever load it} the tongue weight drops the rear of the coach 1.5" {undoubtedly lightening up the front end... and not in a good way}".

Inflating the bags to 50 psi {they are rated for 100 max} brings the coach back up restoring the 1.5" drop and leaving the tongue of the trailer dead level at the manufacturers recommended ball height of 16". An unexpected side benefit of this system is that when not towing I keep 25 psi in the bags to keep them deployed as per the recommendation of Air Lift and my ride and handling, while always good, got noticeably better.

The heavy duty Bilstein shocks seem to work very well with the bags and while I never tried to add more than 50 psi I doubt this would raise the coach much if any.

:C

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
bobndot wrote:
Gjac, After explaining my need for adding a set of AB's to a truck shop they ordered a set and installed them. Different brands mount in different ways, your setup and clearance or aftermarket suspension add-ons will determine which brand of AB's will be avl to you.

They installed a set of AirLift bags on my 'C' thinking they would lift me a few inches more than level and they did not, I had them removed bc they did not offer any additional ride difference.

As it was explained to me by the mfg, an AB will lift a sagging rv back to level but will not lift an already loaded level RV too much higher.
I was trying to gain ground clearance for driveway aprons therefore I do not think a set of AB's will work for leveling. My set was only 1/2" of extra height...maybe ! You are not going to feel any difference or will a 1/2" difference affect your fridge, especially side to side leveling. Front to rear leveling is more important for the fridge to operate bc the fins run in that direction and are prone to clog. In my case, the AB's were not worth it.
Your explanation makes sense Bob, I had Air Lift bags inside my front coil springs on my Class A and the ride height got lower and lower with time as the front coil springs sagged even though the air bags were inflated to the max PSI. After new HD coils ride height was restored without the bags.

bobndot
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gjac, After explaining my need for adding a set of AB's to a truck shop they ordered a set and installed them. Different brands mount in different ways, your setup and clearance or aftermarket suspension add-ons will determine which brand of AB's will be avl to you.

They installed a set of AirLift bags on my 'C' thinking they would lift me a few inches more than level and they did not, I had them removed bc they did not offer any additional ride difference.

As it was explained to me by the mfg, an AB will lift a sagging rv back to level but will not lift an already loaded level RV too much higher.
I was trying to gain ground clearance for driveway aprons therefore I do not think a set of AB's will work for leveling. My set was only 1/2" of extra height...maybe ! You are not going to feel any difference or will a 1/2" difference affect your fridge, especially side to side leveling. Front to rear leveling is more important for the fridge to operate bc the fins run in that direction and are prone to clog. In my case, the AB's were not worth it.

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
pnichols wrote:
Yeah .... I can see your point!

However, whenever I've so far noticed leveling jacks on a motorhome that are retracted for travel, they are hanging down so far so as to make it real tricky to get to a camping spot like we were at in the photo without damaging the jacks and/or the frame area where they're attached. :E
Yeah I can see the low hanging jack would be an issue. What about adding air bags at the 4 corners, I hear some with class A's report a 4-5 in lift. Wouldn't those be a lower cost solution? From what most on here posted 2-4ins usually will provide enough height to level the MH in most camping areas.

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds good... You da man!

:C

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Desert Captain wrote:
Phil,

I have to agree that your last photo does not show a good situation. It looks like the weight of your front axle is not properly supported. Methinks that center of the wheel {axle} should be centered on the ramp, no? :h


A slight clarification is in order, for what it's worth: That photo of the step block under a right front tire is of OUR FRIEND'S previous Class C. I would never do that ... as I carry along plenty of wood planks, step leveling blocks, a shovel, and a 12-ton long-throw hydraulic jack so as to be able to level up our Class C a bit more correctly/substantially whenever needed (no desert rocks required by us for extra lift)! ๐Ÿ˜‰
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
Phil,

I have to agree that your last photo does not show a good situation. It looks like the weight of your front axle is not properly supported. Methinks that center of the wheel {axle} should be centered on the ramp, no? :h

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yeah .... I can see your point!

However, whenever I've so far noticed leveling jacks on a motorhome that are retracted for travel, they are hanging down so far so as to make it real tricky to get to a camping spot like we were at in the photo without damaging the jacks and/or the frame area where they're attached. :E
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
pnichols wrote:
Here's us with our camping friends way out there in Utah (that's our Class C on the right) in a boondock camping spot where plenty of leveling blocks came in handy for both of us.


Here's what our camping friends had to do on their right front tire - the highest step of the step block was not enough!
Phil your last photo makes me think spending the extra money for leveling jacks may be worth the money.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here's us with our camping friends way out there in Utah (that's our Class C on the right) in a boondock camping spot where plenty of leveling blocks came in handy for both of us.


Here's what our camping friends had to do on their right front tire - the highest step of the step block was not enough!
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
Phil, I have yet to encounter such a challenge... just lucky I guess. As noted the most blocks I have ever had to use was 2 high usually under one side {under both rear wheels on that side} and once an a while one or two under one of the front wheels but blocks are cheap and I have more then I've ever needed.

I've got a couple under one side of my cargo trailer as one wheel sits in the gravel with the other up on my newly paved asphalt driveway. I have another under the tongue jack sitting on a 2 X 10. Never had Leggo's as a kid, too old I guess but I keep finding ways to use them now and I am almost 69.

:B

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
Desert Captain wrote:
It sounds like a lot of folks are making this way too hard... :S

A simple 4 way bubble level that you can see from the drivers seat will usually get you pretty close to level {site permitting} and then a couple of blocks on one side or the other does it.

Works for me but,

As always... Opinions and YMMV.

:C


DC, the real challenge comes when you need two blocks on one side and two blocks on one end, and ... the required block height for the one side is different than the required block height for the one end. This can take five step blocks (worst case, four for the rear tires and one for one front tire), and it can take a different step on the blocks used for the rear than what step is needed for the block or blocks in the front.

I'm not talking about leveling for the propane refrigerator. I'm talking about precision leveling for "certain of us" to sleep!!! We find this situation most often when boondocking in rough sites. :E
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
It sounds like a lot of folks are making this way too hard... :S

A simple 4 way bubble level that you can see from the drivers seat will usually get you pretty close to level {site permitting} and then a couple of blocks on one side or the other does it.

Works for me but,

As always... Opinions and YMMV.

:C